Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Controller'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest
    • Community Marketplace – Buy/Sell/Trade/Free

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 10 results

  1. I have a new Bentrup TC88 controller with no English instructions Has anyone got a link
  2. Hi, I hope someone can give me advise. I was given an old kiln. But all the wires were cut off at the back of the kiln and from inside the controller. The plaque with the make and model is also missing. My dad is an electrician and used to service my mom's kiln years ago, but need a wiring diagram to see how the wires should be connected. Any ideas ?
  3. This may be best answered by Neil...but others are welcome to chime in. I have 2 old Cress kilns, a B-23-H ^6 and an FX-23-P ^10. The latter is a recent acquisition. I've also bought an Orton Auto-Fire digital controller. Where should I drill the hole for the temperature probe on each of these kilns? My guess would be in the upper third of the kiln rather than the center. The ^10 kiln has a hole in the outer housing in the center from top to bottom. No holes in the firebrick on the inside. I ultimately plan on selling the ^6 kiln after doing a ^6 firing and then sticking with the ^10 kiln for future use. When I do go to sell the ^6 unit what would be best to plug the hole? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, JohnnyK
  4. My controller does not have a preheat programme. What ramp would I set to get an equivalent? I can programme this onto the beginning of the programmes I have entered. Not having any real trouble without it but occasionally I fire thicker handmade pieces and I do glaze load and fire on the same day.
  5. I consistently fire about a half cone cooler in the top and bottom of my Olympic 2327HE single zone kiln, Watching loading and shelf spacing helps but doesn’t eliminate the situation. I was wondering if it’s possible to simply add two new T/Cs and split the relay outputs to convert the Bartlett Controller to three zone control. As far as I can determine the actual controller board is standard and determines zone control based on how T/Cs are connected. Any help would be appreciated. Yes, I know this voids the warrenties.
  6. Three questions: (1) The manual (yes, actually read & referenced) for my L&L Easy Fire kiln, plus an Orton Tips sheet, say to have the vent (Vent Sure) running continuously throughout the firing. Both specify to NOT open any peep holes. OK...but then how do I see my witness cones? And if the answer is in front of my nose somewhere, please be gentle as you chuckle! (2) The instructions for upon firing completion say it is safe (and preferred, I gather) to turn off the kiln. It also says that the controller will continue to read out the temperature as it cools down. Well, once I turn the kiln off (toggle off) and turn off the juice (main breaker), there is no read out on the control panel. So how am I supposed to know the temp as it cools? And if that info is in front of my nose, same petition for mercy as in #1. (3) About how long is an "average" (I know, no such thing) cool down? The manual does not speak to this at all (other than instructing to keep the vent running and don't open the peep holes). Based on what I have read in other sources, some say roughly twice as many hours as the fire, some say about the same number of hours as the fire, some say just wait until there is no warmth felt at all on the surface, and some say when it is 200 degrees or less...but per #2 (kiln off, no lights/read out on control panel), I have no way to know what the temp is. So-am I doing something wrong with the shut-off? At this point I don't care if the info is in front of my nose and the reader is rolling on the floor--just gimme the how-to's that I am clearly missing. THANKS in advance.
  7. My DTC 800 C controller died recently, and I'm trying to figure out the case of death. The error message I get indicates a problem with the circuit board, but suspect it may have been caused by receiving insufficient power. In the four firings I did before the controller packed up, the relays would buzz quite loudly when they were switched on, but they'd gradually become quieter as the temperature increased. The person I bought the kiln from assured me that the buzzing was normal, but after having read the trouble-shooting guide, I see that buzzing is a sign of the relays not receiving enough voltage. In addition to the buzzing, at low temperatures the kiln would cut out, and this problem got worse with each firing. The cutting out was usually preceded by the relays being on for much longer than usual at that temperature. The odd thing is that I'd be able to restart the kiln using the pre-programmed 'cone-fire' setting, but not using any 'ramp-hold' firing schedules I set myself, except on two occasions. I was able to use the ramp-hold setting above 400 degrees C (752 F) though. Any ideas why the relays would be under-powered at low temperatures, but not at higher ones, and why I couldn't restart (most of the time) using the ramp-hold setting? Another (minor) problem I had, and which doesn't seem to be directly connected with insufficient voltage, is that when I wanted to reuse a ramp-hold firing schedule I'd programmed in before, the rate of temperature rise displayed would be one degree less than what I'd originally programmed. Has anyone come across something like this before? I have a friend who will try to see if the rectifier on the circuit board is not producing enough voltage, and who will also check the transformer, but I'm not sure that fixing either of these problems - if they are problems - will be enough. I know I could get a replacement Bartlett RTC 1000 controller for about $250, although shipping and import duties would be quite a bit extra, since I'm in South Africa. As a cheaper alternative, I'm considering using a generic PID ramp-soak controller or an Arduino type micro-processor, but that will probably be the subject of another post.
  8. Hi all, I haven't been able to find any firing instructions for my old AIM kiln. Even the folks at AIM said they didn't have any . So I'm left with power dials that go from 1 to 10, and no idea how that translates into temperature. I'd like to be able to test this kiln without spending money on a temperature gauge/controller only to discover that what I really need is a new kiln. I have a bunch of different low fire cones, and was thinking of using them as a visual guide for reaching temperatures, but the more I think about it the more I imagine endless permutations of dial-adjustments matched to cone-slumps and time-monitoring. Am I crazy to think I could do a ramp/soak firing without having even a temperature gauge? Thanks, Matt
  9. I am hoping that Neil Estrick might comment about my recent experience with a Skutt KM-1 wall mounted controller, as well as anyone else who may have an opinion about this incident, and if I should be concerned about using the controller for my larger kiln. I bought a new Skutt KM-1 wall-mounted controller in order to automate firing of a couple of electric kilns I have. One is a medium size older Knight, maybe 4-5 cubic feet, and the other is an Olympic 25 Oval, over 12 cubic feet. The power draw is stated to be 48 amp, and the recommended breaker size for the Olympic is 60 amps. The Knight is far less and does not play into my concerns. I had successfully fired the oval several times to Cone 6 (rated cone 8 kiln) using the KM-1. Then on my last glaze firing the controller failed. I went to check the kiln and the KM-1 display was dead, rather than flashing temperature and firing time. There was a smoky electrical odor in the air. I checked to see if a breaker had tripped, and it had not. I checked to see if the control fuse had blown, and it had not. While replacing the fuse, I noted the display came back as I pushed to twist it and lock it in. When I released it, the display went black again. I found that on if I pushed and held the fuse that I could power the display, so I did so and checked for error codes. It showed a power failure, but we had no power failure during the firing. Mystified, I tripped the breaker and resumed my evening activities. The next morning investigating inside the controller, I found that the wiring leading to the contactor inside the controller had melted insulation, so without doing any more I packed it up and off to my supplier for warranty service. I probably should have taken a picture, but didn't think of it at the time. The contactor and a pilot relay and the wiring were all pretty smoky looking, and I was concerned I might void my warranty so I closed it up quickly. From what I have been able to find out, the contactor and the pilot relay were replaced, and the wiring was cleaned up, shortened a bit and reconnected. Apparently the melting had disconnected the control circuit wiring, so the pushing had powered it back up until you let go. I have two firings since reinstalling the controller, both on the smaller Knight kiln, one a test fire and one a bisque firing. No problems with either firing. I have yet to fire the larger oval, and am a bit concerned about it. While investigating and waiting for the controller to come back to me, I found the model of contactor (Square D 8910DP42V09) is rated at 50 amps per the Skutt marketing data, but in checking the ratings from the manufacturer, the contactor is rated at 40 amps inductive and 50 amps resistive. Skutt knows that it is used on the Olympic and I sent a electrical spec sheet. Since my 48 amps is right at the 50 amp resistive rating, should I be concerned? Given the failure, and the melted wiring, I don't want to be creating a safety issue while firing. I can see where if the contactor failed closed, that this would melt the wires, but it never tripped the circuit breaker. Apparently the control circuit wiring burning had dropped out the power. So, fluke one time incident, or potentially repeating problem. John Lowes Sandy Springs, Georgia, USA http://wynhillpottery.weebly.com
  10. Hello, I have a situation that I'm hoping someone out there can help with. I have an Evenheat PF2329 electric kiln. This kiln has the Perfect Fire, model DTP56DC-E controller. There are three 187-36B600 mechanical relays. There is a single thermocouple. So, my issue is that the controller, after a single test firing a month ago, no longer appears to be recieving power. I have inspected the connections on the back of the panel and they seem to be good. However there is a bit of corrosion on some of the boards components and capacitors. The physical condition of the kiln is quite good, and I have no $ invested in it other than some new furniture. My proposed soloution would be to replace the non functioning board with a new V6-CF Bartlett controller. My initial questions are: 1) Are there other components i should change out now (like swapping mechanical relays for SSR) while I am upgrading? 2) If I go with the V6-CF, would you recommend that I install two new thermocouple ports to have better zone control? 3) Am I overlooking a more obvious solution? Thank you in advance for your assistance. John Hertzfeld
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.