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Found 110 results

  1. Dear all This is my first post here, having been a lurking reader for a while. I would like to suspend some coarse particulates in a porcelain slip. I am intrigued by the coarse feldspar inclusions in some Japanese wood fired pottery. I have tried adding coarse inclusions in a porcelain body, which fired well but the large chunks got in the way of my preferred style of handbuilding and surforming the surface. I now want to try to add these particulates in a porcelain slip that I can apply to my pots by dipping. Does anyone have any tricks on how to suspend larger particulates in a clay slip, eg grog or coarse inclusions? Do grogged slips exist? I was thinking that perhaps adding bentonite could help due to its thixotropy, but I am not sure. Any help from this very helpful forum in my self-learning endeavors would be much appreciated Best Joris The Netherlands
  2. I need to find the best All-In-One clay for cone 5, great for both hand building and wheel throwing I know. That's a tall order. But I can dream. I have a pug mill and don't want 2 bodies. Problem: I have too many problems with my gas kiln for cone 06 anymore. I'm DONE. I am moving to cone 5. Criteria / Factors: I'm in Southern California I teach 180 high school students grades 9-12, all levels of art skills, so it has to take punishment Not too sandy on the wheel, not too smooth or squishy for hand building Not too dense so it is so top-heavy when trimming I'm willing to pug the new clay to soften it for throwing, if it is stiff and great for hand building, or visa versa Doesn't stain clothes or the tables, rolling pins, or make a mess everywhere Is not pure white (students can't see where they missed glazing spots when using light color glazes - painting) Good leather hard, doesn't soften up too easily when re-wetting to score things together Doesn't take every indentation to the surface of pieces, temperamentalD Centers on the wheel fairly easily, especially for teen girls with tiny hands Can take a good amount of water from beginners Pulling walls, it is strong, doesn't warp or sag easily Won't dry out too quickly in hands while hand building Doesn't bend or warp easily when removing from the wheel Not so soft that it caves when cutting and sliding off the wheel Doesn't make teens hate the class because it stains clothes or gets everywhere and of course, takes glazes well and can handle a little fluctuation in gas environments Cone 5 clays I've Tried: Laguna - Dover White: Nice clay, but pure white. easy to center, but A little soft when hand building Laguna - Plain (Buff): Nice light tan color, easy center and to rehydrate if repairing, but a bit too squishy and shows every dent Laguna - Moroccan Sand: I love this clay, doesn't leave residue - color, but a bit dense to center. It is really dark grayish brown, if they only could lighten it Laguna - Buff with Sand: Nice tan color, but WAY too sandy for students on the wheel Laguna - Greystone: Too dense and top heavy for small pieces, hard to center, but really takes a beating with water, warps when thin due to density of surrounding clay Laguna - Speckled Buff: A bit dark in color, has iron so it gets read everywhere, could stain (think girls with pure white vans) Laguna - LB-6: hmmm, can't remember, but nixed it very soon after Laguna - Sante Fe: OMG - red EVERYWHERE, like a crime scene Aardvark Clay - SBF - Too dark tan - a bit sticky for students Aardvark Clay -Arctic White: Too white Opinions???? Go!!!
  3. I have been busy with firing pieces for several exhibitions since the weather broke. The obvara was pretty successful. I have been experimenting in the saggars using tiles as baffles to help hold combustibles in place. I am including two pieces of framed baffles because I find them so intriguing. the pots range from 8-12" in ht. I am using terra sig on the sagger pieces as well as on the smooth areas of the obvara pieces. I use ball clay TS so that it absorbs the obvara and the fuming in the saggars. I just added the poster for the Invitational show. Marcia
  4. Hello. Does anyone in Los Angles have a Peter Pugger (hopefully a 20 or 30) I can come try out? I would just use clay you already have... chat a bit... bring you lunch or a coffee. I am desperate to try one to resolve my purchasing issue. I teach high school, and my last 2 pug mills (Bailey and Shampoo) had big issues. Peter Pugger does not have a single business in LA to test out a unit.
  5. Hi, We have been doing the jigger for the first time and the pieces whatever we are making have a cracks in a same pattern in a same location, and we are using Terracotta clay to make the pieces and here I m attaching the cross sectional pieces of the molds., and in the molds I have few doubts and I would like to get clarified so that I can reduce the cracking doors one by one., Does the thick and thin portions of the molds absorbs water differently so that the pieces are cracking ? As you can see the picture of the pieces the cracks are happening in the place where the side wall is connecting with the curved edges, and the cracks are happening only with our terracotta clay and we have tried quite a lot of receipes to avoid cracks but nothing is helping out and the cracks are happening in the inside of the pieces and the outside wall is just fine. Also we have tried jiggering few pieces with our stoneware clay and we havent have any cracks in the stoneware. Does the uneven wall thickness is the reason to get the cracks ? Wi only the Terracotta is cracking and not the stoneware ? Wi the inner wall is cracking and it didnt extend to the outer wall ? Does it anything to do with the plasticity and the composition of the clay? As far as the design is concerned, we make sure theres no undercuts in the design and even the wall is not striaght and it has an angle of 10% for easy releasing., we used to have few issues with our clay body which I was working with Tom (Glazenerd) to solve the issue, but apart from that I would like to know what are the other possible reasons for the cracking.
  6. Hello Community! :-) I am pretty new to ceramics and I am learning new things about this fantastic material on a daily basis. For my latest project I am trying to crack/break up old clay bottles with the principle of the heat shock. Does anyone have an idea what would happen, when I rapidly heat up a bottle (like the one in the picture) to 1800 degrees Fahrenheit ? My wish would be to let the bottle explode and to create many fragments. Is the wall of the bottle maybe too thick (approx. 4mm) to really burst into pieces? Will nothing happen or maybe just one big crack? Or does anyone have an idea how to make the shock/explosion bigger ? Thank you so much for your help!
  7. Carl_and16

    Glaze Troubles

    Hello, So I've mixed a few of my own glazes. Some of them are more stable than others but I always fire to cone 6 and use a pretty standard stoneware. I'm finding that some glazes run more than others. Is there any additives than be used to stop this from happening? I've done a bit of research and it looks like gum arabic can help? Also, does anyone know what the ratio is when mixing gum arabic with water (that's assuming the GA will help to stop the glaze running). Thanks in advance for any advice given! Carl
  8. glazenerd

    Hudson2

    From the album: USB Images

    alkali film, iron oxidation

    © TJA 2018

  9. glazenerd

    Hudson Clay

    From the album: USB Images

    Hudson Rive Clay: alkali deposits, sedimentation lines.

    © TJA 2018

  10. Is there any scientific way of measure the plasticity and tell it in numbers ? I know the easy way by rolling out a coil and wrap around the fingers to check the plasticity in no time but I wanted to know is there any way that I can measure it and keep noted so that it can be a reference is future ...
  11. Hi, I have this problem of cracking or clay splitting when throwing in the wheel, pls find the attached picture and also, after firing at cone 08, the clay has a lot of surface cracks and sometimes structural cracks pls find the attached pic, pls advise why this is happening and how to avoid this in future. Thanks.
  12. I have this heavy blisters and pinholes issue and I m doing the Bisque at cone 08 and glaze temperature is at cone 6 + 40 mins soak., Whats the reason behind this blisters and pinholes ? Is it a clay issue or its something to do with a glaze chemistry ?
  13. Good Morning everyone, I'm considering moving from stoneware to earthenware and I would like your reasons for your throwing preference. Thank you and have a good Wednesday
  14. Hi everyone, I am experimenting with sponges, submerged in slurry/ slip. I have seen a view examples that I am trying to replicate. I have done a view test using natural sponges. I do not want to use any artificial sponge due to unhealthy fumes that might occur wile firing. However, the results so far did not really satisfy me. The remaining structure of the sponge looked interesting but it was very brittle and fell apart easily. I fired it at cone 05. I am wondering if anyone has some experience on that subject and a tip what I could do differently? And do you have any recommendation for natural spongy materials that I could use, alternatively to a sponge? Thank you so much for any advice , best wishes, Seb
  15. Davidpotter

    Sand On Clay?

    I had an interesting idea today and that was to sprinkle sand on my freshly thrown pieces to add some interesting designs. My teacher is going to try in the older kiln since it doesn't matter as much if it does something bad. However that kiln can only get as high as cone 6. I was wondering though if maybe the sand will melt possibly. I don't have any specific details about the sand except that its high in silica. Has anyone had any experience with this yet? Any suggestion would be appreciated.
  16. sheppard.lin

    Woodfiring Clay Bodies

    Hello again, another wood firing question for those of you with more experience! I'm going to try a few different clay bodies in an wood firing next month. I'm in Ontario, Can - so I'm going to test a porcelain and Tony Clennell's clay body for sure. I've also seen a lot of work with gorgeous deep purple/brown tones. Are there any clay bodies/slips/kiln placement that I might experiment with to get this color? Thanks, Lindsey
  17. Hi all, I have a question that has probably never been asked before: is clay-based cat litter usable as content for casting slip? I ask this because it's cheaper and I can buy it from a local store rather than order my usual clay online and have to pay an exorbitant delivery fee. I like to experiment so was going to make something small to see what would happen but I also thought I'd put the question out there in case anyone had actually tried this. Thanks in advance!
  18. Hey gang! I'm curious if there is a way to achieve the look of MG2 over soldate 60 - that cool speckled look, at cone 6 in an electric kiln? I love the look and miss making it, and would love to recreate it at home if possible. Thanks!!
  19. It has been a long time since I have done anything with molds as I am mainly a wheel thrower. I have a plaster fruit bowl mold (hump mold over a year old but have never used it before until now) and my clay won't release from it and I'm scared that if I don't take it off soon that it will crack (its been on the mold for almost a full day uncovered). I can't get it off, what should I do? And how do you keep your clay from sticking to your plaster molds?
  20. Art Students League of Denver Please join us for our upcoming workshop “Abstract Archetypes” with Marty Fielding (https://martyfielding.com/ ) April 26, 2018 - Artist Talk -- 6 -7:30 pm April 27, 2018 - delecTABLE Exhibit Artists Reception with Marty in attendance -- 5:30-8:00pm April 28-29, 2018 - Demonstration Workshop -- 9 am- 4 pm During his slide lecture, Marty will speak about his career, philosophy and approach to working with clay. His demo workshop will explore slab building techniques for constructing functional pots such as cups, dishes and pouring vessels and surface decoration with underglazes. To Register, please call 303-778-6990, or register online at: http://asld.org/adult-classes-workshops-student-information/visiting-artist-series/ This Visiting Artist Series workshop will be held in conjunction with the juried delecTABLE exhibit - April 6 – May 18, 2018. To view images of juried artists and dates for exhibit and receptions: http://asld.org/delectable/ Thanks! Shelley Schreiber Ceramics Studio Manager Art Students League of Denver s.schreiber@asld.org
  21. Call for Entries: The Art Students League of Denver will be hosting delecTABLE: The Fine Art of Dining - Fourth Biennial Juried Exhibit of Functional Ceramics in April-May 2018. This is a national exhibition of ceramic works from artists across the United States chosen to represent the best in contemporary tabletop clay. The exhibit will feature ceramic works by juried artists, juror Marty Fielding, the ASLD ceramics faculty and 'cuisine themed' two dimensional artwork by select artists. Juror: Marty Fielding Eligibility: Open to US ceramic artists over age 18. Apply at www.CallforEntry.org between October 2, 2017 and January 22, 2018. Exhibit Dates: April 6 - May 18, 2018 Visiting Artist Workshop with Marty Fielding: April 28-29, 2018 For further info contact s.schreiber@asld.org View flyer: delectable 2017-flyer-1.pdf More info to follow....
  22. BARAKE SCULPTOR

    OLD MAN

    From the album: SCULPTOR

    HIGH TEMP.FIRED SCULPTURE.UNIQUE PIECE

    © Barake Sculptor

  23. Hey everyone! I'm in the process of creating a home studio, and I thought it would be a great idea to start making my own glazes. What are some good resources, magazines, or books that have helped you guys when it comes to introductory to advanced glaze making? Also, are there any tips or suggestions when I'm starting out! Thank you so much and any input would be greatly appreciated.
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