Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Bisque'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 33 results

  1. I have never done ceramics seriously but for my architecture course I am designing a pottery workshop. I've read up about bisque firing schedules, and there's mention of monitoring the kiln at regular intervals. If the low-heat warm up is happening overnight as I've seen recommended, does that mean you essentially sleep by the kiln as it were? Or would you be able to go home and sleep in your bed safe in the knowledge that things are as they should be? If it's any help, I will probably design around using an electric kiln. Basically I want to know if I would have to include a bed in my workshop design! Space is limited as it is, so I would really need to justify it.
  2. Hello All, So I just completed my first bisque firing and took a quick peak at the top shelf (Temp is 250F). The witness cones are not what I expected. Left to right 05,06,07. Kiln was fired to cone 06 slow and took 12h 26 minutes to complete. Is it possible the 06 cone bent more because of the slow bisque? I expected the 06 to be slightly bent. The top shelf was high about 3" from the kiln lid. Also wondering if i didnt leave enough room perhaps. Although this doesn't sound likely to me
  3. So I have a tiny hairline crack after bisque and I was going to try the spooze recipe I found here to fix it. 1/3 parts dry clay powdered....any body...preferably the one you are using with no grog 1/3 parts heavy karo syrup 1/3 parts white distilled vinegar drop of hydrogen peroxide Should I be using dry powdered clay that has already been bisqued or does it matter? And I just bisque again after I apply it, correct? I have some of the Amaco bisque fix - and it works - but it fires so white, afraid it might not match Thanks in advance!
  4. Hello! I had a couple of pieces that, freakishly, dried just fine...evenly...even thickness...all around good slab pieces... cracked in the kiln! I fired at the correct temp and somehow this happened. I've read about magic mud...and I was under the impression that it could be used on bisque fired pieces. However, my instructor told me that it couldn't? I wanted to see what everyone thought?
  5. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructor must have felt really bad for me, because as I was sticking the pieces back on the rack and deciding whether or not to trash them she came over and decided my stuff was special enough that we were going to try a risky operation, putting both pieces through both bisque firing and final firing despite them being glazed out of order. She says that the color won't be as consistent and you couldn't eat off of them (fine by me, because they're not dishes), but they should still stick together and come out okay. Before we try this, however, I wanted to take some initiative and research both the risks of this test and any alternatives. Despite my excellent googling skills, I haven't been able to find an article or forum topic specific enough to my situation, so I figured I'd start one myself. Any and all information you can give me will be useful. I just want to know what might happen if we try to fire this thing and/or if there are any other ways to save the work with less risk involved.
  6. Hello I have recently acquired a small kiln for use at home (Hobbytech 40). It works and I’m happy with it for the most part, but when I have bisque fired plates, they crack during firing, down the middle to about halfway across the plate. This must be a fault when I’m making the items. Can anyone tell me what could be causing this so that I don’t waste efforts making anymore to be disappointed when they’re fired? I’ve not had this happen with plates I’ve made in my ceramic lessons. Some are wheel thrown, some are made from slabs. Clay bodies used are lavafleck stoneware, or white special stoneware. Are these plates now only good for the bin? Photos attached.
  7. I have a bisque fired ceramic with a large crack in it and have heard many times that 'Paper Clay' is the answer - slip/clay + magic water + toilet paper (c. 30%). I've looked all over but can't seem to find the answer to what state the clay should be in when making the paper clay for a bisque fired piece. One article suggested I needed to bisque fire a piece of the same clay, then grind it down into a powder and then mix/blend it with the paper and magic water. But most articles don't mention the bisque firing part. Do I need to bisque fire a lump of clay or is it OK to make up the paper clay with raw slip/clay and then bisque fire again the whole piece? Many thanks for whoever can give me some clarity on this!
  8. I'm working with B3Brown (Laguna) and I really like the color and surface texture when it is fired (C5). BUT stoneware glazes I use are bubbly/pin holed and dull - not matte but dull in color and surface. Lower fire glazes are fine if I refire at 05. I'm planning to bisque, fire to maturity, and then glaze fire at lowfire range. My question is, can I skip the bisque firing and fire greenware to cone 5, glaze, and fire to cone 05? Would that be too much shock for the greenware? I will test as needed but thought someone might know. Thanks!
  9. Hi everyone, What will happen to bisque work that has fired too hot for too long? I fired a bisque on Thursday night, and realized on Tuesday morning when I checked it that it was still at 1234 degrees and not cooling. It said "Complete". I hit stop, and it didn't begin cooling (although said Idle), so I turned off the circuit breaker. I have a kiln electrician coming out to check on the kiln, but my biggest concern is the work inside (not my work, but student work). I assume it's ruined?
  10. HELP! I screwed up my bisque firing and fired at cone 5 instead of 05. Major button pushing error. Can I still glaze my pieces and fire them at cone 5 again? Any suggestions of how to make the glaze stick to the bisque since it is so no porous? Thanks for any help.
  11. First, thank you for all the amazing information here. I've spent all of my recent free time perusing every page. I have absorbed an incredible amount of information that directly addresses things I've been stumped by and also answering questions that I didn't even realize I had. For now, 2 questions regarding bisque firing: I am using a small electric test kiln and doing various types of small items (pendants, ceramic light switches, garden art designs, etc.) I'm confused whether I need to prop the lid open a bit during an initial hour or two of firing for vapor release? What difference does it make whether I do a "fast" or "slow" firing? Thank you : )
  12. Hello helpful potters! I need help with an 04 bisque firing schedule. I'm having problems with pinholing in the 266 Standard Ceramic cone 4-6 dark brown clay that I'm using. About 50% of the time I'm getting a few pinholes, generally on the bottom but also on the sides. When I slow glaze, my cone 5 witnesses goes all the way down and the 6s are at about 2:00. The glaze I'm using is Potters Choice for cone 5/6, 3 coats as suggested by Amaco Brent, and this problem is happening pretty much just on the 266 and not the lighter color clays I use. I know pinholing can be a symptom of a variety of things, but I'm ready to try a slower bisque schedule in case they're being caused by gases or other impurities that haven't completely burned out during the bisque. Maybe it should go faster to 1100 and then slower for the next 1000 degrees? Or have a hold in there somewhere? I've tried to work out a schedule myself but it always ends up being about 18 hours long. Here's the cone 04 preset firing schedule I'm using in my LL kiln: 80 per hour to 250 (2 hrs) 200 per hour to 1100 (4 hours) 100 per hour to 1100 (1 hour) 180 per hour to 1676 (3 hours) 80 per hour to 1926 I also add a 10 minute hold at the end. When I use this cycle it tells me the end temp will be 1945 instead of 1926, ( 1926 is what it says on this firing schedule. It does end up at around 1945. I unplug the vent when it's done firing. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated, as would any suggestions about other things I may be doing, or not doing, that could be causing the pinholing. oh also I don't stack my bisque in the kiln. Would stilting the pieces give better air flow or deform them? Thanks! Irene
  13. It is currently 27 degrees in NY and I can not tell if my green ware is completely dry. I loaded my kiln today for a firing in 2 days and I am thinking of preheating it for 2 hours to dry it out. Is this possible and worth it? I am also trying to avoid an extra 2 hours in firing.
  14. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  15. Dear all, This is a rather odd post in that i am brand new to pottery and manage an art studio in a resort in the Maldives. I have received a kiln from China which is a front loading, electric machine with no pre programmed programmes.... I have amaco low fire clay (red and white) and am wondering what to input in my kiln for bisque firing. The clay is to be fired to cone 04 1077 degrees C, but im not sure on the ramp/timings? I'm really stuck with this now....there doesn't seem to be any clear info available to me online and the supplier sent me instructions on HOW to programme but not what to input (understandable). If anyone can give me a nice step by step explanation on what to input, temps, for how long (whole profile) I would be so grateful! Does anyone use the Amaco low fire clay? Many humble thanks in advance! Melissa
  16. SydneyGee

    Calico Sake Set

    From the album: Ceramics Fall 2016

    Bisqued Sake set. This was glazed in tenmoku and I will grab photos of them later today. Since my work is fired in a classroom setting, all my cups were placed in different areas of the kiln, so each one looks slightly different.
  17. Guys I'm having a serious issue, almost every bisque I have done recently in my new kiln sitter is having explosions. I have been letting my clay sit out longer and get even more bone dry yet it still keeps happening. I've made sure no air bubbles except for one piece had them however this is becoming an issue. Any help or something someone might recommend would be great! With the kiln being a kiln sitter I don't have much control to do holds I can only control the switches on the way up which I have lengthened a lot but once I hit the second switch everything goes boom, very discouraging
  18. Hi, I have been working on some old men busts, and I have a question about paper trapped in the head. I built a wooden armature for the work and made a paper ball to use as a mould for the inside of the head. After removing the armature and as much of the paper as I can there is still some paper trapped inside. I have let the head dry very completely, are there any concerns with firing in an electric kiln with some paper left in the head? The bust is not terribly large (9" or so), and I used 1 sheet of paper from a local flyer. I would estimate that I got about 50% of it out. I realize that I could have cut the top of the head open to fish out the paper and reattach, but I plan to Raku this and didn’t want the seam where I reattached to be a weak spot. Thoughts? Thanks ~Mal
  19. Hi, I have an unfired pot (cone 5/6 clay) that has had raw Cone 6 glaze (Coyote Alabaster Satin) applied to the inside. Can I fire this raw pot at bisque temp, leaving the applied glaze inside and then fire again at Cone 6 later? I was going to once fire this pot... but thinking now it would be a better plan to bisque at least a little first since it has some fairly fragile embellishments. Hope this makes sense Thanks!
  20. Just a little bit of background since this is my first time posting. My daughter has been working in ceramics and pottery for over 10 years. I just took up the art form. We are long time Florida residents and this past week-end had a show in Crystal River, FL. A gentleman bought one of my pieces, and made comment that he hoped his wife would like it. Keep in mind that many people in Florida come down for the winter as snow birds, then head back up north for the summer. After we left the event, the gentleman called my cell phone and asked how my piece would handle -25 F temperatures in his cabin up north. My daughter and I were completely stumped. We are Floridians. We don't think about this kind of stuff! I've Googled his question and came up with nothing. We bisque fired at cone 04 and glaze fired at cone 6. I want to respond to him, but have no clue what to say.
  21. So... I've just fired my Nabertherm electric kiln (pre-loved) for the first time, for a bisque firing. I put two cone packs in - one on the bottom shelf, one near the top, with 04, 05, 06 large cones. The program was 100oC per hour to 600oC then 250oC per hour to 1000oC. I don't regularly use cones, but thought it was a good opportunity to see what the new kiln did and how the bisque firing temperature related to the Orton Cones. I've attached a photo of one of the cones packs - there was very little difference in them. Does this look as you'd expect? I'm surprised that there's such a big difference between the 06 - completely down and the 05 which is barely bent. I thought the differences between the three would be more even. Is it telling me that this was a cone 5 1/2 firing or something else? Don't know why the photo has flipped! I edited one and flipped it myself and that one still imported upside down !
  22. I have a big sale coming up this weekend and I put the last bisque load in yesterday afternoon. I come into the studio today to find the kiln reading Error 1. This is a Skutt kiln model km-1227 firing a bisque load to cone 04. This error is about the ramping up rate being less than 12 degrees per hour. Possible causes include large load which isn't the case, and issues with either the relays, elements, or voltage. Normally, I would just call the kiln repair man, but he was here in July fixing this kiln. The issue then was the electrical plug. It had some discoloration around one of the prongs, and he re-wired and replaced the whole plug section. I also had an electrician come out and check the wall wiring and outlet to make sure the problem was isolated in the kiln plug, which it was. The wall wiring is fine. The kiln has been running about twice a week since the repair just fine. The other issue is that our power had been out all morning before I turned the kiln on. Questions: 1) would a power outage cause the kiln to sense low voltage? 2) do you think the issue is with the wiring or is it just ANOTHER issue with the same kiln that happened to pop up right after the first issue? 3) Am I correct in assuming trying to re-run the kiln will result in the same error or create a bigger problem? Most importantly: 4) Will the load be underfired and need to be fired again? Or do you think it's okay to glaze? I have no idea what temp it was at when the error occured and it's still too hot to open and look at. My other kiln is doing glaze loads all week and if I need to re-fire I will not get this entire kiln load done in time for the sale. Thanks!!!
  23. I have a lot of different items my students made and for the first time I am working with the Velvet Underglazes from Amaco, they are now bonedry, I mean really bonedry! Can I stack underglazed pots in underglazed pots to be bisqued or will they fuse. Would it also fuse on the shelves if some of the underglaze is on the bottom of the pots. To be safe I have cleaned all the bottoms and it was quite tedious. I am ready for the first bisque fire and will post the before and after shortly.
  24. So, the envirovent was accidentally left off during a slow bisque fire. Obviously, the kiln atmosphere was not oxygen rich. Can the work be re-bisque fired to correct some of the potential problems?
  25. ChenowethArts

    Tornado Bisque Survivor

    From the album: Tornado Pot Sketches and Progress Images

    For those who have been following along with the drama of making "F3 - The Wizard of Oz" tornado container, this second version survived the bisque firing and awaits detailing with underglaze and glazing...hopefully, a single glaze firing and perhaps a single decal firing. Read more about this project and projects by other artists in the Ceramic Arts Community Forum - "Community Challenge #2".
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.