Jump to content

SunsetBay

Members
  • Content count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

SunsetBay last won the day on August 13 2012

SunsetBay had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About SunsetBay

  • Rank
    Member
  1. Elaine's Cone 6 Porcelain from Sheffield

    I've just been wondering if anyone else has had this issue. I still have 100 lbs left, and I'm working extra hard on the attachments. Before I order more clay, though, I'll talk to Sheffield about it. Thanks.
  2. I've been using Elaine's Cone 6 porcelain from Sheffield for a few years now, and I love it. I love the feel of it on my hands, I love the way it takes glazes, and overall I've been really happy with it. But over the past, say, 9 months, I've been having new problems with attachments: handles and other attachments are cracking even when I dry super-slow. Does anyone else have experience with this? Any suggestions? I don't want to switch clays, but I'm getting frustrated. Thanks!
  3. How do they differ in terms of use?
  4. L&l/bartlett Controller Question

    I have a brand-new L&L EasyFire kiln, and my test firing results were overfired by a full cone. When I went to adjust the thermocouple offset, I found that it was already set for 18 degrees. So if I want to add, say, 15 degrees, do I reset it to 33 degrees instead of 18?
  5. All very helpful. Thank you!
  6. When using a "hump" of throwing clay as a trimming chuck, how do you keep the clay from sticking to the piece you're trimming?
  7. Waterproof Power Strip Suggestions?

    That's a good idea. I could keep the wheel plugged directly into the wall (I'd prefer not to have to use an extension cord for it), and then plug everything else in farther away. Why didn't I think of that? ;-)
  8. Can anyone recommend a good waterproof power strip? I only have one outlet (2 plugs) in my basement studio. It's right behind my wheel, and my wheel and my extra lamp are plugged into it. I'd like to be able to plug in things like my stick blender (for glazes) without having to unplug something else. But I'm guessing I ought to use something that will be safe (or at least relatively protected) from splashes of water and slip. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  9. Looking For A New Clay Body

    I emailed Standard but have gotten no reply as yet. Highwater will send me a free sample of Little Loafers if I pay for the shipping (as soon as they have some more mixed), which I will do. I think I know of someone I can ask about Sheffield. The hunt continues...
  10. Looking For A New Clay Body

    I am going to call Standard and talk with them. I'm also going to try a couple of clays I can only get by shipping--just to see what I think. Thanks for the suggestions!
  11. Looking For A New Clay Body

    To clarify: For cleaning, I use two buckets of water in the studio--one for the main cleaning, and one for a final rinse. I also have a system of buckets-inside-buckets that are supposed to spill clean water from the top after the water settles, until the stuff in the largest container drains right into my sink drain. I also have a small bucket of throwing water. What is happening with the Standard 213 is that the water barely settles out: Day by day, I get an increasingly thick layer of really hard stuff on the bottom (it requires serious elbow grease with a spackle knife to pry up) and cloudy water that doesn't look like anything I'd feel comfortable putting down the drain. My throwing water (and I try not to put actual hunks of clay in it or even, anymore, to scrape my hands off on the edge) turns into slurry in a few days--with the same hardpan on the bottom. Obviously the same thing happens to my splash pan. So cleaning is a pain--worse if I don't do it daily--and since I don't have a lot of time for pottery, the time needed for cleaning is starting to grate on me. This is what I am trying to avoid. I am open to any and all suggestions. I'm less concerned about reclaiming, since these days I just rewedge collapsed pieces and overly wet clay, and I toss the dried bits into a slip container.
  12. Help! I am looking for a new clay body. I need suggestions. My goal is a ^5 or ^6 white clay (stoneware or porcelain) that: 1. Fires a nice white, not yellowish or pinkish 2. Is creamy smooth when wet 3. Throws well, both small and largish 4. Attaches (handles and such) without too much fuss (a little fuss is ok) 5. Works okay for some handbuilding/slab work 6. Reclaims well, without excessive hardpanning (and settles in water in such a way that I can end up with cleanish water that is safe to put down the drain) Am I asking for too much? I’m not even mentioning anything about how it takes glazes, because that’s a whole other exploration. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions! (If you see this on more than one page or site, it’s because I’m casting this net as wide as I can.) p.s. I've been using Standard 213, but the problem I'm having with hardpanning in the cleaning and throwing water buckets is driving me crazy.
  13. I've been using Amaco PC glazes very successfully on Laguna #65, a white stoneware. They also worked beautifully on Laguna #15 and #16, both ^6 porcelains.
  14. Favorite Supply Sites

    I'm in the New England, so I try to stick to the northeast. in addition to Bailey's and Clay-King (which isn't in the northeast, I know!) I've had good experiences with: http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/ http://ceramicsupplyinc.com/ http://www.theceramicshop.com/ Portland Pottery in Portland, ME, is terrific, but not for mail order, unfortunately.
  15. Looking for Glaze Suggestions

    I am ready to test some glazes on the red clay. I just realized that the recipe referenced above is the same one I already mixed up and tried on white stoneware! The photo in the link is gorgeous. I hope it looks nice on the red clay, too. I'm going to try a couple of others, as well. Fingers crossed. Ijust realized taht
×