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Susan McHenry

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  1. I really appreciate your looking into this Tom. I wish I could fully understand your calculations regarding COE. Sadly, I'm not well versed in clay and glaze chemistry. I get the gist of what you're saying though. I will test fire at a lower temperature and will test some other low fire glazes. From what I'm understanding, the glaze I've been using is not the best fit. I know there are several Val Cushing low fire glaze recipes out there that may work better for me. Thanks again.
  2. Hi Tom, I use Laguna red earthenware clay, EM-207. They don't list a cone rating. I've contacted them and they said it's up to the user to determine the cone temp by testing (strange). I used to fire Standard's Red Earthenware to cone 1 (the firing range for that body is 06-2). I prefer the Laguna to Standard's which caused scumming issues. Laguna adds a small amount of barium to prevent scumming. That said, I used to have the same issues with peeling using the Standard clay. I've tried several slip recipes, thinking that may have been the problem, but that hasn't resolved it. Maybe it's my glaze recipe? I can't recall the source, but here is the recipe: Neph Sye 46 Gerstley Borate 28 Silica 20 EPK 6 Bentonite 1 The white slip was a bit heavier than is typical for me on the pieces in this firing. That's because I started deflocculating my slip, thinking maybe I was getting peeling from too much water in the slip. So, I'm now getting used to how to tweak the slip to the right consistency. That may be one issue, as you say. As for my firings, I bisque to cone 04 on a slow bisque cycle. It takes about 13 hours. I run a slow glaze program to cone 1 that takes about 7.25 hours. Thanks so much for your help!
  3. Thank you. It may indeed be a CoE with my glaze. Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to try to reformulate the glaze and see what happens. I did a bit of reading on glaze fit. I'm going to reduce the amount of silica and increase the amount of feldspar and run a few test.
  4. Does anyone have any input on why I’m getting intermittent peeling slip on my cone 1 red earthenware pots? It happens on a handful of pots from each firing. Typically, it’s on the edges of a pot (mostly near the rim). I’ve tried reformulating my slip recipe and am now using deflocculated slip (Martina Lantin’s recipe). My colors are from the base recipe with the addition of mason stains. I use Laguna red earthenware clay and fire to cone 1. I hoped the deflocculated slip would solve the problem since the water content is so low, but it hasn’t. I’m ready to give up! It’s so frustrating. I’d greatly appreciate advice on this. See the attached photo.
  5. Thanks for the feedback. I use techniques similar to many working in red earthenware (Victoria Christen, Ben Carter, and Martina Lantin, for example) where I dip the pot in thin white slip and then layer colored slips on top of that. Perhaps you are both right about the need for a deflocculant so I don't have to use as much water in my white slip. I just ordered some and am eager to see if this resolves the issue. Thanks so much!
  6. I work with red earthenware clay and decorate with white and colored slips at the leather hard stage. From time to time, I have issues with the slip peeling after the bisque firing (cone 04). Does anyone have any insights into why this might be happening? In the past, I’ve tried other slip recipes, but this doesn’t seem to make a difference.
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