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Bill Kielb

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About Bill Kielb

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  • Gender
  • Location
    United States - Illinois
  • Interests
    All forms of constructionist pottery, education, analysis, design and repair as it pertains the ceramic arts community.

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135 profile views
  1. Bill Kielb

    Bubbles in Glaze

    Many of these lowfire crystalline glazes are decorative only. Often growing crystals or floating things up in glaze does not yield a low COE glaze so forget about using them on porcelain. It is interesting to go to their website and see the variation they can obtain with less than durable formulas. Starbursts, crystals, flowing movement, and big color at low firing temps, you name it. The sample I posted is an old Bristol glaze that I was asked to rework for decoration. We will redesign it with a durable flux ratio but the way it works is to make the glaze actually runny (over fired) for the cone being fired and make it be a matte. True mattes are matte because they grow crystals so an over fired runny matte deposits the crystals at the bottom of the run. Titanium (light rutile) is the only colorant so bingo, blue and lavender hues. not very hard to do actually and I have labeled it as decorative only even after I remove the crazing. It should be a matte but runs so it’s overfired. Why would I ever assume it is durable.
  2. Bill Kielb

    Bubbles in Glaze

    I attached the warning they have in their website which says no food storage or beverage storage. In adddition they acknowledge that their glazes often craze which is definitely not good especially for lowfire products that absorb considerable amount of liquids because they don’t fully vitrify. So most would consider a glaze that crazes not suitable for food service. Personally I would not use this for food service, storage or consumption especially over a low fired absorbant clay body.
  3. Bill Kielb

    Bubbles in Glaze

    Simple boring video, but nice work with the liner glaze!
  4. Bill Kielb

    Bubbles in Glaze

    Nice spot for the controller! I love the handwriting on the original nameplate. 3000 W test kiln, pretty neat stuff. I like old stuff though. Hopefully you have some ventilation in the area or this is outdoors.
  5. Bill Kielb

    Bubbles in Glaze

    @Narelle Got to thinking about your glaze as these are specialized lowfire things that don’t have the best reputation for liner use. They tend to craze and some are marked specifically not for food use as I recall. I am not a lowfire clay guy as the body never can be vitrified. Someone might have some and be able to read what is on the bottle. These glazes are designed to mature fully at 04, A bit hotter than 06. Check your label on the bottle. SAFETY DATA Ceramic ware that has been coated with Fantasy Glazes should not be used for the storage of food and beverages. The Fantasy Glazes in all cases are lead free. Several may contain encapsulated cadmium or copper compounds and due to the nature of these types of glazes, they will have a tendency to craze. Always refer to the bottle for all hazards and safety instructions.
  6. Bill Kielb

    Bubbles in Glaze

    @Narelle just a note about crazing. Crazing happens when the glaze shrinks faster than the clay. We call this a glaze fit issue so generally if a glaze crazes on a particular body it is not a close enough fit and will likely always craze on that body unless adjusted chemically to be a closer fit. Crazing can occur right away or hours, days, months later. In general if the glaze does not fit well enough it likely will eventually craze regardless of the firing speed and cooling speed. a glaze with a marginal fit to the body will also exhibit crazing when the glaze is thicker. Often we see the development in the bottoms of pots where glaze has been artistically applied and intentionally runs down into the center for effect I have pictures below showing a glaze we are developing for someone at the studio. The glaze was made as a matte and intentionally over melted to get the crystal effect at the bottom of the runs. The bowl is crazed (hard to see in the picture) where thickest, the sample tile is not. 2 grams of whiting was removed from the recipe to get the fit between body and glaze closer to a match on the sample tile. So far no crazing in the sample tile. I mention this because I believe you are using commercial 06 glazes for which there is no published recipe, so this glaze may end up being unsuitable for your claybody regardless of what you do, unless of course you desire the crazed look. Or perhaps it has crazed where applied thick. Generally for mugs, this is not considered a durable finish though. slower heating likely will not solve this problem. Finally for our studio we have been doing some basic YouTube videos for those new to clay. Our latest is a basic introduction to glaze, you may find it useful
  7. Bill Kielb

    Holidays and Themes

    They are about three to four inches long, cone six porcelain fired to six, hand carved, hand underglazed, signed by the artist on the back with a date (year) and glazed all sides using one of two tested durable glaze clear recipes . (Matte and gloss) sprayed by me. Nice even coats all around, no drips, same thickness. then they are affixed to various presents as a new Christmas keepsake. what are they worth? I’ll let you answer that. thanks BTW I appreciate the compliment.
  8. Might be the only way. He was getting RFI when he logged in to the web server. Typically this high freq. stuff is filtered just ahead of the differential amplifier for the thermocouple. Since this is a board he purchased it would be hard to add your own filter and they should have a scheme in place that filters this out based on the chip series they are using. I believe he tried twisted pair at this point but if MHZ stuff, not likely to be removed by twisted pair. your way might be a reasonable practical way to ignore the noise.
  9. Bill Kielb

    Wheel Height

    Well built stand!
  10. Bill Kielb

    Glaze Chemisty Education

    @hitchmss I can say the videos are very thorough and each section is probably two hours or a total of approximately 40 hours in thirteen weeks, so fairly serious lectures. If time is an issue you may be interested in the videos. For true class credit (out of Alfred I believe) then the full version has labs and requires login etc.... I found it to be an informative sharing environment that could be rewound on occasion. How cool is that, restart your college professor in a different time and any space! Just an add here we actually added some simple Visual Basic code (crude) and aesthetic spruce ups to the Katz glaze worksheet which he shares with the public on his website. We received permission from him to redistribute locally to a glaze group that evolved and I have been using the simplest aspects of the spreadsheet to teach newbies at our studio some of the basics in short video format on our you tube channel. thus far I believe it has helped many new comers and I believe when they see the adjustment results to our studio glazes they perk up, pay more attention and become more interested and willing to explore rather than just mix a recipe they found online with no idea what to do with it other than mix and hope.
  11. Bill Kielb

    Wheel Height

    Three pieces of longer pipe replacing the original are always an easy way to go. Maybe one intermediate support if raising it very high . For the lifts I have seen in the picture three pieces of longer pipe would likely be fine and they don’t absorb clay, are not mold food and leave a neater footprint on the ground to mop around. just a thought
  12. Bill Kielb

    Glaze Chemisty Education

    @hitchmss The course is excellent and a nice balance betweeen hard chemistry and what is practical for most potters while also providing a good platform for those interested in further study. If you want to learn the nitty gritty about color, defraction, sub orbitals then this is not that course. If you want to know that these things exist and can be mastered with very specific study then you may enjoy this course. The clay and glaze course are specific enough to dispel many incorrect things I have seen in print. They continue with online round table discussions from around the world and many of the members share their research results which to me is a force multiplier. just my opinion as a former junior college adjunct instructor who also made a living in and around engineering most of my life so take it for what it is worth.
  13. Bill Kielb

    Benrup TC88

    Google Bentrup TC88 there are videos as well on you tube Download English manual from their site here http://bentrup.com/wp-pdf/downloads/techmanuals/TC44_TC66_TC88_de_en.pdf
  14. Bill Kielb

    After a bit of advice: dishwasher safe

    This is a difficult question as you seem to be seeking a way to encapsulate these items. Potters struggle with the sturdiest of things, for instance: A typical good glaze that is fired on a pot will eventually degrade or begin wearing away in the dishwasher from wash one. The dishwasher and alkali soaps actually are fairly aggressive so every wash wears even a good glaze away. Now these items generally aren’t falling apart anytime soon and we are talking molecular level stuff here where a larger molecule is replaced by a smaller one eventually weakening the structure but measurable degradation to be sure, the point is even China paint which is a fired on overglaze that is extremely sturdy comparatively with paint applied surfaces will wear away in the dishwasher. So the definition or meaning of dishwasher safe is a bit muddy. Most potters do their best to make the sturdiest wares safe to eat on and very sturdy with respect to cleanup. I am not sure you will find an encapsulant that is as sturdy as a well constructed glaze that has been fired over 2000 degrees. My thought: advise folks these are hand wash items and continue to be sure to decorate only on the outside specifically not the rims or areas that people come in contact with while using them. Hand wash only is not a bad thing and since many colorants could be marginal with respect to human consumption erring on the side of safety at this point seems prudent. Maybe not what you want to hear but my opinion with respect to the materials currently available for this.
  15. Interesting design, likely junk but what looks like a decent perimeter weighted pully / flywheel. Hand operated speed switch with lots of fasteners in it. Maybe a decent brushless dc motor with an all in one controller that relies on a powered cooling fan. and the best mystery of all a little red reset button on the circuit board. It would be interesting to deconstruct this thing as I am sure one would find a mix of decent parts and questionable ones.

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