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Bill Kielb

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About Bill Kielb

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    Advanced Member

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    United States - Illinois
  • Interests
    All forms of constructionist pottery, education, analysis, design and repair as it pertains the ceramic arts community.

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  1. If in doubt , Why not slowly re-bisque them to burn out any organics?
  2. That’s a lot of grinding, I would try a diamond tile saw (wet saw) to cut. it has worked for me when cutting old shelfs for spacers etc.... This post started out as something about using bonded nitride shelves which resist glaze sticking to them. @Mark C. mentioned that his posts did tend to stick over time so his answer was to kiln wash the ends once per year or so. If they stick, (Regardless to cone six or ten) then using his solution seems simple. If not there appears to be no need for it. Personally I like his idea as we do this with our posts for our soda kiln even though everything gets wadding it makes cleanup much easier and is a simple quick dip of both ends of the post as needed before it is put away after removal from a soda fire.
  3. Dust collection is difficult at best. Fine particle dust is generated at almost every stage of the process. We are currently working on a best solution for this and observe the issue with a laser and some high speed video. Long story short collecting at the point of generation is a first rule which means: When you scoop into a container to get some materials When you transport that scoop to the bucket When you dump that scoop into the bucket Intercepting the fine particles by exhaust usually requires the use of an air scoop or pickup that has sufficient velocity to capture all the dust. If that's not enough for ya, then there is capturing all the dust generated by refilling any chem bins. All that said, a well thought out system and careful use can minimize dust. Its likely going to be very hard to be as effective as mixing outside though. Here is an example of a well apportioned system at the Kansas City Art Institute. Lots of exhaust that can be used as you are dispensing, mixing, etc....
  4. The one? Looking at the chemistry of this it’s hard to find anything redeeming about it. Pretty sure it likely is not very durable in comparison. Flux ratio seems to cry out decorative only. Not a prime liner glaze in my opinion which generally means putting stuff over it will usually not save it. so the Epsom salt provides 0.15 MgO, interesting! good luck!
  5. If the hat is to be adhered then Ok, set it squarely on so it will not slide off when the glaze melts, else wipe the bottom and set it on the shelf or fire the hat on stilts. If the hat is to be adhered in a specific position then fire separately as above and epoxy it in its perfect tilt / place later. I picked epoxy as the glue because it will fill and has real sheer strength when cured. Other glues are fine, epoxy is generally far more structural To improve your chances when others likely will pick this up by the hat.
  6. Medium speed cone 04 bisque is generally considered fine. At about 1832 degrees they begin to oxidize and you will be trying to form a reasonable thick oxidation coating on them to protect them from future oxidation. At least that’s the theory.
  7. Just to add quickly your first firing, hopefully to cone 04 as @Dick White mentioned will burn off any oil and dust that remains on them from manufacturing. So expect the familiar new element smell till they reach about 1200 degrees.
  8. Nice work, on all fronts. Potter to electrician to electronics design technician. Ya got some skills!
  9. Pretty similar to our findings actually, except in our case we have a hand stone that simply cleans up anything on the shelves with a few swipes, no real grinding. Most of the glaze simply pops right off and literally requires near zero effort. Other areas such as kiln posts require a few swipes of the Stone by hand. Literally for our gas kiln the shelf is handed to a team member that hand stones both sides lightly for about thirty seconds and it is put away. For the electrics - cone six, I believe this will be as easy or easier than our cone ten stuff.
  10. Definite purpose contactors (3 phase) will come from an automation supplier and be located in the machine upstream of the element relays and interlocked to a low voltage control relay driven by the safety circuit powered by the on / off / error function of the V6CF. Any failure or open condition of any of the safeties locks out the power. Power for the circuit is derived from the V6cf so error or non execution of a program firing locks out the power to the contactor and relays driving the elements. i think that’s what you are asking total initial cost looks like about 300.00 bucks in parts first time only.
  11. These are commercial kilns so the power is never turned off while people load and unload. The lid switch is one of the few dependable ways to ensure that the power is mechanically turned off when the lid is open. The switch is wired as fail safe in that the safety circuit must be made in order for power to be applied meaning an independent normally open circuit must be maintained. Any defect in the switch circuit means no power to the relays. Normal (high end) practice is for two lid safeties in series interlocked with the controller start / stop output as a third form of safety. Any of the three devices not made will lock out the power. In this way there is electrical and safety circuit redundancy Its a bit more foolproof than simply asking folks to turn off the power before loading and unloading. Most folks in a commercial environment don’t have an easy form of disconnect or often it’s a high amperage plug so constant unplugging is not practical,or good for the plug. Turning off the power ends up being difficult and causes them to temporarily lose their programming capability. A nice practice to be sure, but rare to find anyone doing that in reality.
  12. The solid state relays really stand on their own as something with several firing advantages and virtually no relay replacement later on. One of the characteristics of solid state relays is if they do fail, they can get stuck in the on position. Kilns with solid state relays and upper end kilns often have a lid switch installed so anytime the lid is open all power is disconnected from the elements Bonded nitride shelves conduct electricity but ....... glaze does not stick them. Basically they get brushed off to clean them which means if we can find a safe way to use them they are great for a studio environment.. @neilestrick shelf cleanup is a huge hassle and often requires excessive grinding and lots of kiln wash. The grinding is significant and we would soon destroy the core light shelves and back to having a bunch of gouged shelving to load in the kiln. Literally we have member volunteers assigned to clean these weekly and kiln wash them. Of course a decent coat or two of kiln wash needs time to dry so our glaze area is constantly stacked with shelves to be cleaned or fresh wash that is drying. So the relay upgrade will improve kiln performance in a number of ways but as a result of the additional safety allows the use of shelves that glaze will not stick to. There I think I got it all said in one spot! This is an all volunteer organization so anytime I can make tasks that I can perform easily but are difficult for most members or difficult physical task such as grinding shelves, I try and get them to a point where the the tasks are simpler or self sustaining. My technical background is significantly broad, most folks are here to practice their art.
  13. @Rae Reich @Dick White All right as promised - the numbers and ciphering are complete using the advanced scientific method of a scale, some actual shelves and actual hurricane student ware. I saw Neil's quote and I am guessing his math is fine. As a studio we don't own core light shelves and have stayed away from them because of the kiln wash issue and all the grinding that we do, plus flipping them over would require removing the wash so the numbers below are for our standard 3/4" solid shelves of which we have many and are very economical to purchase actually. But ….. it looks like the core light shelves are the same mass as the bonded nitride below so they would have the same or similar thermal effect as the nitride. It Looks like we budget to buy about $2500.00 per year of new conventional shelves plus furniture and I would have to tally the expense of the Lees kiln wash since we were tired of kiln wash in our glazes and of course there is diamond grinding bits for the removal of the ever artistic flowing student glazes. Oh not to be forgotten the free volunteer time it takes to clean stacks of shelves every single week. Will it save our backs - yes. Will it save hours of shelf cleaning and kiln wash - yes. And will it save energy and time to fire while extending the life of our elements - stay tuned, we are not sure. So the early speculation: 10% - maybe as much as 20% reduced heating load on the kilns. Why heat shelves if you don't have to, they look the same fired to a perfect cone 6 - Boring! The incentive: Change the current mechanical relays to Solid State, likely no more relay changes, a safer studio kiln, longer element life, shorter firings (More throughput) and the ability to use nitride bonded shelves in them since the new safety has been added. So does the use of lighter shelves save energy and about how much is the question? Just the shelves Standard 3/4" 21" round half shelf in the studio = a touch under 10 pounds (we have a bunch) Standard .394" (Economy) Bonded Nitride 21" half round = a touch under 5 pounds ( we have tried them and they are a dream to clean) Weight of pots (Student) I can fit on a typical 21" half round shelf = Generally maximum under 6 pounds Can I fit more in the kiln with the approximate 1/2" height I gain from the thinner shelves - not really relevant in community fired kiln(s) The rough percentage mass reduction I can expect with lighter shelves - Just under 50 % The rough percentage the shelf mass is in relation to the pots on them - Somewhere between 40 - 50%, lets use 40% to be conservative Percentage of shelf mass I will not have to heat 40% X 50% 0r 0.4 X 0.5 = 0.20 or our Magic number 20% Kind of what we thought actually so our initial approximations were reasonable. Now as to the whys of this project, it is mainly the solid state relay which will improve firing, extend element life etc.... The latent benefit in a studio environment are mainly maintenance and inconvenience which is critical in an all volunteer environment of 55 resident artists. Thats it, those are the numbers as promised! Is this good for a home studio? not sure. If I put dollars and cents to this can I create a suitable payback period, likely not. I could say the same for an automatic controller upgrade though, heck we could all still be using cone sitters, they work fine. As a DIY by someone capable for the studio It looks like a one time cost of well under $300.00 per kiln to retrofit (Solid State Relay). I think for this studio it looks like a winner.
  14. I'm get you actual numbers tonight. Whatever they are they are. In studio right now
  15. Maybe, but mass is everything in energy required so I would say at least 30% of the total mass in many firings consists of shelves. Especially old heavy ones
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