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liambesaw

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About liambesaw

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  • Birthday April 1

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    Bothell, WA

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  1. Figure out the shrinkage rate of your clay, most are around 12%. And then multiply the opening size you want by 1.12. that will be the setting you set your calipers to. So if you have a 10 inch opening, and your clay shrinkage is 12%, make the opening 11.2 inches (10*1.12)
  2. liambesaw

    Bubbles in Glaze

    That's so weird and sad that they make a glaze that they know crazes. Crazing isn't just a food safety issue, it's also weakens a pot considerably. It must be a really special glaze.
  3. Wow, and I thought $0.11/kwh was bad! Thank you cheap Washington hydroelectricity
  4. Can you see inside? If the sitter got stuck it's probably way overfired
  5. If it hasnt hit cone 5 in 15 hours, it never will. Might be time for new elements? What temperature was it at when you turned it to high? On high for 9 hours, sounds like it won't get there to me.
  6. Very true, I had a flopped vase that I was going to use to test glaze and my neighbor saw it and said it looked cool. So guess what he got for Christmas haha
  7. liambesaw

    Bubbles in Glaze

    Some glazes just don't fit your clay body. Crazing is an indication that there's a poor fit between your clay and your glaze. Glaze was too tight, don't think firing it slower will help.
  8. liambesaw

    Hardening of glaze

    You can pour the glaze through a sieve, then dissolve the crystals in hot water and add it back. Keep it warm and they'll take way longer to form. If they're in glass jars maybe keep them inside the home?
  9. I've seen someones thoughts on production at cone 10. A lot of their points were on cost of materials and cost of firing. The bigger the kiln, the less often you have to fire it, so less time is being used there. I'm not sure about the materials part, seems like not a huge difference though I'm sure even small differences add up. You don't have to worry about expensive frits or troublesome fluxes. I think a lot of production potters use electric for bisque though, I've even seen videos of Japanese production potters bisquing pots in electric (and reduction firing in electric as well).
  10. liambesaw

    Primitive or local clay?

    Sheet metal and metal rack might not be a good idea once you get up around bisque temps. I have a fiber kiln and where there are gaps in the insulating material it straight up burns the sheet metal reflectors back. These are temperatures that are unfriendly to metal. You can just build a shelf out of clay that is above and behind the stoking area but in front of the flue. Think of the wood burning and the heat escaping from the chimney, you want the pots between those two points
  11. liambesaw

    Need advice on glazing for this piece.

    What color does the clay fire to? If it's white you could just wipe stain and fire with no glaze.
  12. Euclids sieves are 14 inch ID (talisman is 16 inch OD) and the same depth so I'd say the volume you can put in each one is fairly similar. The talisman would probably last a lot longer, the euclids ones are pretty thin plastic (what you'd expect for 12 bucks). I have a few talisman test sieves and they're nice build quality, so I imagine the rotary sieve is just as beefy
  13. I guess I don't understand what makes the drill brush unsuitable for heavy users? It's faster than a talisman, easier to clean, and yeah it uses a drill, but it's not that hard to switch bits. If you already own a talisman probably use that for sure, this isn't a replacement for a talisman, just a cheap workaround that ended up being way nicer than I thought
  14. But thanks to a 4 inch brush mounted to your drill, you don't even need to clean a talisman!
  15. Nice thing about this drill brush is that after you're done sieving, just spin the brush for a second and all the glaze flies off. Then I just put the brush in a bucket of water and give it a zippity Doo and it's clean!
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