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Pawelpksa

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About Pawelpksa

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    Poland

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  1. Pawelpksa

    glazing in red and black

    I made first attempt with red glazed rim and strips. Results can be seen in this video (turn off audio, but the starting picture shows the resul). Next will be stains (Terra-color) in clay body - agateware.
  2. Pawelpksa

    glazing in red and black

    Thanks, sounds nice. At the moment I try to do agateware with stains for the clay body. If done I will post results. Later I may try with underlazes but I'm bit afraid of my low paiting/brushing capabilites.
  3. Pawelpksa

    glazing in red and black

    Mason stains are not available in Poland. Terra-Color provides some nice red pigments. Both formulas from mason and terra, as well as from others, contain cadmium. Terra declared they use inclusion pigment. So, I will try to do Agateware with porcelain colored with black and red pigments. Later, I can post results. I still need to read and learn how to handle cadmium based powders and wet clay in a safe way.
  4. Pawelpksa

    glazing in red and black

    I made something like this in the picture by mixing porcelain with the same porcelain coloured with blue pigment and then throwing that on the wheel. I’m not sure if that is marbling or nerikomi technique (?). The effect is nice and would fit for the purpose if I do the same with black and red pigments. But….. Red pigment is an issue. I looked into 3 different local pottery suppliers and cannot find red pigment. They offer various colors but not red. There is red-brown or pink, but that all is far away from red (any similar to the red of the razor’s scales). Do you have any experience with red pigment which can be used in cone 6? I found some over-glaze paints with beautiful reds which get mature at 800C or 1050C but they require quick cycles (30 or 60 min) which is not achievable in home studio. The red rim would be an option, but all red glazes which I used in past (3-4) are kind of running glazes, so the rim is the worse place to apply them. Can you give suggestion for high temperature nice red not running glaze? I have not experience with underglazes at all One update. I have found red pigment. The issue is that it contains cadmium and Terra-Color does not say (unless I'm wrong) if after firing in 1250C with the porcelain or clay it becomes safe.
  5. Hi, I'm looking for a tip how to achieve the following effect in glazing. See the picture of lava flow. It is black with grey patches and red lines. What you see in the photo is not ceramics but I need to emulate it on a ceramic. I have a razor with scales from this material and now need to make a box for shaving foam (quite similiar to a regular butter bell) and shaving scuttle. I thought about glazing white clay with glossy black glaze, waxing , then scrubbing the unregular lines and then adding red glaze. Does it make sense or there is better method? I also have problem with red glaze itself. I go for cone 6 and the red glazes that I use run and tend to change color. Can you recommend good one? thanks
  6. Pawelpksa

    Grinding tool

    Thanks to all, I will try both diamond head and hand carbide rub-brick
  7. Pawelpksa

    Grinding tool

    I have to grind dirty shelves from remainings of the glaze
  8. Hi, what grinding tool do you use? Especially for bigger surfaces like flat bottoms (no foot) or just kiln shelves. I searched through discussions. People use Dremel tools but I think it is just for foots or details covered with glaze.
  9. Pawelpksa

    cracking bottoms in the kiln

    Aha, thanks, seems to be simple
  10. Pawelpksa

    cracking bottoms in the kiln

    Yes, sure about EPK but how to get ‘calcined EPK (bisqued to cone 08 or so)’ ?
  11. Pawelpksa

    cracking bottoms in the kiln

    Hi, thanks a lot. I will grind the shelves and apply wash again with a paint roller. Regarding the idea of glazed button - the middle picture (red clay) is misleading because it was positioned on seeshells (you can see the 3 marks). But maybe you are right that they are dirty in general and same traces of old glaze could have remained on the shelves. The idea of sharp edges is very interesting. I will have to look for other post to understand what exactly you mean by smoother edges... i didn’t grind the bottoms from any wash, there was no need. Wash itself was applied in 3 runs as creamy paint. Thanks for recipe. I’m from Poland and I don’t think that ‘calcined EPK’ naming is recognized here. What exactly it is? In my recipe I use 1:1 kaolin and alumina hydrate. Regards
  12. Pawelpksa

    cracking bottoms in the kiln

    Hi, I was changing wash 3 times: twice it was commercial mixture, 3rd time my own (50-50). May you give good recipi? Other hints than wash? See more pictures on different clay.
  13. Pawelpksa

    cracking bottoms in the kiln

    Here is the picture. I will make better (with more severe cases) tomorrow. No, I don't glaze the bottom
  14. Hi, I would like to ask you for help regarding some trouble with cracking bottoms of my pieces in the kiln.effect that is not described below. When I fire in my electric kiln I can observe that the bottoms of the bodies get stack to the shelves or just crack at the bottom. See the picture here<https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkzUYiXaPPNa3TZ80pGXEUeQBfob> (often there are more severe and damaging cases) So, I think it is not: - Overheating above clay limit as I happened to different clays including porcelain. In all the cases the clays were supposed to survive the temperate of the firing (about 1230 C). - Overheating due to broken controller, because no other signs of it, it happens on every shelf. - Shelf wash because I changed it 3 times I wonder how to avoid this problem? What is the root cause? Maybe the atmosphere from the glazes or wrong heating curve (usually 80C/h to 600C, 120C/h to 1230C, 20min, skip)? Can you share your opinion? Thanks in advance
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