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arpetrone

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  1. Thanks, I did look at that second link beforehand and I basically did what the instructions did in the first link except I mixed by hand. I hope you mixed up your #s of water vs plaster because I did the reverse as to what usg recommends. I don’t know how to calculate from 7 pounds water and 10 pounds plaster to the exact amount I needed but unless the 16.314 (or whatever the exact number was) grams per square inch is way off then maybe the plaster I bought was old. I’m thinking most likely the mold just too thin and I applied too much pressure
  2. IIt was on the floor when I was pressing. I wonder if it just wasn’t fully cured even though it felt dry, it seemed to chip and flake quite easily unless that sounds just normal for plaster. And maybe I shouldn’t have pressed so hard on such opposite ends. making the molds were so time consuming it’s very annoying it happened but oh well I guess. i think I mixed it correctly, I went by the calculation of 16.something grams of plaster per cubic inch. I found that number in a thread here. Then I multiplied the total grams by .7 for the water ratio.
  3. Yep, I used pottery plaster and they are flat on the backside. It is about an inch and a quarter thick.
  4. Are you saying the clay will crack or the mold? i waited until all the molds were dry (not cold) to the touch - today I was pressing some clay in one and it cracked right in half...Maybe I was pushing too hard? The mold is only about 12 inches long
  5. I'm wondering if it is only important that a mold be completely cured when slip casting? Can I use a press mold sooner? What would happen, it just might take longer to release the clay? One other question, should I use a powder to help in the release of clay from press molds or just let it go naturally?
  6. Just poured the first batch of plaster...aye aye aye it took forever to get all the parts seated in the clay hopefully to the half way mark... I also think my water was way too cold because the plaster is taking forever to set...I also hope it wasn't too liquid when I poured but I let it sit for at least 10-15min after mixing to try and let it thicken up.
  7. That's exactly my plan. So far I'm planning three separate press molds for the pieces of the cabin and the chimney and a tile mold for the two halves of the roof. It's that the chimney needs to be hollow and go through the roof to access the interior of the cabin that I have to think about how to do it differently. I would like as much as possible of each section of the house to be reproduced within the molds, as it will still take me time to assemble, clean up everything, then add details to make each unique. I could probably just make a single large press mold for all the parts that need pressing but I figure smaller molds would be easier to work..?
  8. I don't have access to an extruder unfortunately, at least not one that would be large enough for the chimney anyway, I don't think. It's that the chimney is hollow that's giving me pause about how to go about it, otherwise I would just do a press mold. I'm thinking I could still do a two piece press mold, where it's split down vertically, but I would have to line each half of the mold with a thin slab or clay and push it in, scoop out the center and then shove them together?? Very interesting ideas for quicker and unique textures. The outside dimensions of the cabins are roughly 6.5in x 6in x 7
  9. Thank you all for your help. I have rebuilt the log cabin in Plasticine in sections with much more care and detail. My plan is to make a press mold or two from the various parts of the actual cabin and a tile mold for the two halves of the roof and then put it all together. It should still save me considerable time. I'm still trying to work out the best way to do the chimney though... My plaster should be here later today so I will make the molds probably tomorrow and post the results here for anyone in the future.
  10. Thank you @oldlady for showing me that. It definitely gives me some ideas and upon further thinking, I think the press molds of each section is not such a bad idea. When you say she created plaster forms for each section, you mean she carved them from plaster and then used a slab of clay to lay over the top and press into it to create the textures in the clay?
  11. Hmm thanks for the reply Mark. I wonder if that'd even be faster or take me just about the same time as just putting it together from scratch. I guess the only way to find out would be to try both!
  12. I was thinking and hoping that'd be the worst case scenario as well @liambesaw.
  13. The inside is not very important. The textures on the outside don't even necessarily have to be there. But it would be helpful if I can have the door frames and window frames already in place. This way all I really have to do is cut out the windows and scratch in the textures. So the two piece slip cast mold is totally do able? For both the cabin and roof? Thanks for both of your replies.
  14. Hello everyone, I am hopefully going to be embarking on a journey soon enough of selling some log cabins. I am hoping that I can figure out a way to make a mold of the design so that I will have an easier time producing them. Here is a LINK to some pictures of one. I am wondering if, with some modifications, a mold is able to be made of a complex shape such as this? The roof is separate and I would be making a separate mold for it. Are the amount of details added, such as the window panes and door frames too much detail for a mold master and would be better added afterward? The windows themselves would not be cut out yet of the mold master but is the hollow inside a problem? I am thinking since it is hollow than it would have to be a slip cast mold but since there are so many over hangs I am guessing it would not just slide out easily? Would a two piece slip cast mold work though - that is split horizontally? This way it just pops off? As for my slip cast mixing question. I've been doing some research and see that sometimes people say it has to be mixed for hours while other instructions only mix for 10-30 minutes maybe. Are hand drills with say a jiffy mixer used often and successfully in mixing slip or do industrial mixers need to be used? Thanks in advance for any advice and I hope this makes sense.
  15. I didn’t check that Jenken out until you reminded me @oldlady. I think it’s a bit low fire for me, although thanks for the suggestion @Marcia Selsor. So I’ve heard, about using a kiln to cone 10, @neilestrick but as you say, you do want the ability so as to not struggle going to 6. Not that I would even fire to c10 all the time. I think that cone art is my main interest now - if I can come to terms spending that much that is. Another reason I want the option of cone 10 is because I have some brand new Sheffield 42 stoneware clay I haven’t even had a chance to put to use yet. It’s a c6-10 clay - would it still be vitrified/functional enough if only fired to c6? https://www.sheffield-pottery.com/Sheffield-Moist-Clay-42-c6-10-50Lb-Box-Delivered-p/mc42fs.htm I wouldn’t want to throw it out.
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