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About Hulk

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday October 13

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Los Osos, CA - a pile o' damp sand
  • Interests
    Pizza, swimming, cycling, reading, puttering ...and ceramics

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318 profile views
  1. ...I'll keep an eye out next door; they have the windows in, siding guys should be there soon. I've stocked up on wafer board. The type with the reflective barrier is smooth on one side, nice for ware boards/shelves.
  2. The Ingleton fella (that's posted dozens of u tube vids) uses high pressure laminate sheeting; I want to try that, however, I'll wait on a free scrap before buying a full sheet. So far, I've made bats made from 3/16, 3/8, and 1/2 powder board (from scraps I had laying about) soaked with linseed oil, else finished with oil stain and varnish; potter's plaster poured into small and medium cake tins, large pie plates. My used wheel came with two plastic bats, and I bought one speedball bat. They all work and have their uses... I store my clay pad for plaster bats on a plastic bat, and trim on the thin powder board bat. Heavy common use likely steers you away from powder board and plaster...
  3. Yep, first run, my old 1027 took that long (longer), with fuddling, to get enough time at the temps indicated by Nerd's post on "Cone 6-10 Firing Schedule for dark or red bodied clay bodies." - as most of the pieces were red, with a few black in thar too. Will see how it turned out when kiln is cool enough after yesterday's glaze firing!
  4. Hulk


    Enjoyed readin' some of the Mason story (http://www.masoncolor.com/mason-color-history); current president Carol Mason. Note the page spells color, hmm, I still slip* on that, having first attended school in Barrow, learned colour. ...marketed by the Mason family, or Mason company better than a guy named Mason, my bad. I'd seen a pic of John Mason somewhere in earlier... "You got slip and engobe backwards, slip is used on greenware and engobes are for bisque." Yep, probably did! The materials marked engobe at local JC ceramics lab is for application to greenware only (although there are a few containers by the glaze table that are for bisque). DigitalFire indicates "In terracota and stoneware processes, engobes are most often applied to leather hard ware." As for slip, I'm seeing recipes for application on greenware and bisque. DigitalFire has a paragraph in the Slip entry "The difference between a slip and an engobe" - both are still liquid-y mostly clay t'me. *
  5. Hulk


    Add slip t'that list! Amaco's site has a partial glossary (this is it startin' with S entry): https://www.amaco.com/terms?letter=S e.g. "Liquid clay, usually with colors added, with varying shrinkage rates, used for decoration. Since slips, engobes, and underglazes do not melt and flow like glaze, detailed decorations are possible." ...here's another http://walkerceramics.com.au/resources/glossary-of-ceramic-terms/ The distinctions between engobe, slip, underglaze may not explicit; for me, I want to know at what stage is the mostly clay colourant applied, does the colour stand firing (else changes how), how the colourant interacts with glazes, what's the target firing temp, does it fit my clays, etc. From there, I'll go with the whichever term. For colour, I've only ventured as far as glazes, slips, and underglazes. I'm using Speedball underglazes (mostly on account o' they're supplied at the local JC, hence I bought five of my favorite colours for use at home).I blend up clay with some water, then screen out the sand and grog for slip*; I've black, red, white, and buff clays, so same colours in slips. For glazes, I chose seven recipes and am working on testing them out, as I didn't want to go with store-boughten glazes... At present (I'm a pottery neophyte), my understanding is engobe goes on damp/green clay, slip may be applied to green or bisque clay, depending on its formulation, underglaze goes on bisque ware (now I'll duck, lol). Mason is a guy that markets stains; his stains can be used "...to color glazes, underglazes, slip, and clay. These ceramic stains are fritted raw materials. Frit is essentially one or more colorants encased in glass then powdered..." For me, pigment is a more general term. Overglaze, aah, perhaps includes china paints, lusters, and majolica?...oh, another glossary! https://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_overglaze.html I'm not feeling very well today, have a bit of a temperature and a stuffy ol' head, ; had fun looking at some glossaries though! Mostly just wanted to post this pic, I'm so happy with this red slip under clear liner glaze!!! *
  6. fwiw, my post to qotw has more t'do with "what is art" (and what is not art) than value of formal education; all good tho', carry on! Th' topics weave together, surely.
  7. Hulk

    Drippy Cake Plate.jpg

    oooh, cake!
  8. Hulk

    Milky glaze

    The clear (cone 5/6) available at school always has lumps and blobs; I was not getting as many milky/hazy spots on the buff clay, however, lots of cloudy spots on my red clay. Now I'm sieving what I need (80 mesh), and thinning it as well, big improvement - still clouds where it's too thick tho', aye.
  9. Hulk

    Home Studio Information

    We have CO detectors upstairs and down, have since our son was born; his doctor made sure we had smoke an' CO detectors, an' all the other baby proofing done. Hadn't thought about the studio though; we have smoke detector out there, but not CO detector, thanks Min! My garage setup started out with a homemade vent a kiln fashioned from propane deck heater lid, squirrel cage (bathroom type) fan and some ducting. From there, I've added a envy vent assembled from galvanized sheet metal, ducting, an inline fan, and a few small holes. We're on time of use electric rates, hence weekday firing window starts at nine p.m.; today's the day for first test! ...given I finish up glazing first...
  10. My first try at the blender, disaster! Since, I add clay a small pinch at a time; the blender (garage sale special) will run up to about a quart and a half of thick slip. Sieving to remove the sand (and other stuff) is a big plus for me. From there, if too thin, syringing off water after settling helps. So far, blender slip applied right after trimming (leather hard) survives bisque and glaze firings; me like it. Re-slaking bone dry bits, that seems like a great idea!
  11. Hulk

    Skutt Kiln S/S rings reattaching

    Oh Dear! Good that no one was hurt. I have an old 1027 (probably older than yours), will take a close look at the hose clamps... Stainless can be very tough to machine; try cobalt, or carbide (harder, also more brittle) drill bits, and use cutting fluid (we used "Chemtool" back in th' day). Surely a hole can be made with Dremel set with a small carbide burr. Any road, can you strap that puppy back together with something that can take the heat? Perhaps three or more turns of something like Item #3051T23 Stainless Steel Plumber's Tape / Strapping0.031" Thick x 3/4" Wide x 10' Long, 304 GRADE. ...or a cabling (not plastic coated cable, o'course). Did you call and talk with the Skutt techs? I (and several Ceramic Arts Daily forum members...) have found them very helpful and responsive. Good luck! I'm curious to hear/see how you repair that!
  12. Hulk

    Sculpture stuck to base

    Diamond grinding and/or cutter likely better option than ceramic (e.g. DeWalt DWA8909) or masonry (e.g. DW4429) grinding wheel; that said, I've a 4" masonry wheel that takes porcelain down like butta. On something like your pic, Carl, I'd likely start with the tile saw (diamond blade), then grind, then polish. The clay part (should be) easy; getting a smooth edge on the glaze, without chipping - be careful there!
  13. "Any road, formal education/training (that isn't crap) is worth it, imo, howeber, you gonna suffer, an' one can't go back neithe´╗┐r. " Oh dear! My undergrad, English, was from departments that mostly serve the rest of the Universities (Cal States SLO and Hayward); looking back, a good mix of courses, and several profs who engaged, cared, and taught*. My overgrad, Computer Science, was from a department (also a Cal State) that mostly serves itself and seems to operate on principle of anyone who can survive artificially difficult curriculum will make the school look good, where a few maverick profs engaged, cared, and taught, and the rest can go to th'hot place! Ahem, I'd classify both experiences as mostly not crap. In short, the opportunities changed my life. imo, much of what there is to experience in school is related to - it's magic, isn't it? - the group dynamic! ...assemble people who are interested in similar things and watch what happens! Well, I'm (fresh, three months in) retired, taking the second of three JC courses now (they aren't very formal - access to the lab, a bit of demo/instruction, then go! + the group dynamic); doesn't look like any formal Ceramic ed in my future. That said, I'm devouring books, articles, utube vids, online forums ...so much to learn! Finding a Pottery community, that might be a challenge. This forum is awesome! In person people - there's some potters around here... *taught, as in focus on objectives - clearly stated, carefully considered specific measurable outcomes. Aaah, between the aforementioned English and CS degrees, I'd a year Credential program. My Master Teacher made rather a case for objectives!
  14. Hi Unsure! How paranoid? ...somewhere between staying away from all/any clay and "meh" - shade to the former? There are several threads on the subject in this forum, try "clay dust" and/or "clay and dust" search strings... see Mark C's post on his measures. Awareness would be a logical first step, looks like you're there. Agitation of dry clay makes dust, hence, don't do that, which ain' reasonable, therefore limit/control. imo, it breaks down to work and cleanup. Work: dry clay can be carefully handled ok, e.g. placing same into the reclaim bucket to re-slake, handling to decorate/glaze before final fire, etc. When I'm sanding bisque ware, it's outside with the wind at my back; if there's no wind, outside with p100 on. Somewhat dry clay is a question - does cheese hard clay generate dust? Clean up: clean it up before it's dry, else put the p100 on. Clean with water - mop, sponge, rag, etc. - as possible, an' don't forget alla shelves, etc. Related may include studio dedicated clothing, shoes, air handling, heat/cooling - keep the dust out of the house/car. From there, monitor? Horizontal surfaces in your work area should tell a tale; wipe clean slick/smooth surfaces that aren't subject to breezes, periodically check how much dust has been deposited. Have fun!
  15. I have a TPI 343 (K Type, which Aardvark lists as a "Skutt Dual Input Digital Pyrometer" - their image clearly depicts TPI 343 - with one K Type probe, $130, today Aardvark lists at $155), which defaults to F but can be toggled to C ... ...which is 'bout all I have to offer right now; 71.4C ~= 160.5F, any chance the problem is units? My probe has two wires.

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