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About Hulk

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday October 13

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  • Location
    Los Osos, CA - a pile o' damp sand
  • Interests
    Pizza, swimming, cycling, reading, puttering ...and ceramics

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  1. Hulk

    Architectural Tile

    Nice tile and tilework Mark! All the tile I've set - several floors, two backsplashes, an entryway, a fireplace surround, a shower - has been over tile backer or directly to the slab - using quality thinset (mortar for tile). That said, the old timey pros still do wire, two coats of mortar, then thinset for the tile, hence a truly flat and plumb surface and very strong. Anywhere there's moisture, there must/should be a vapor barrier behind the backer board (or wire and mortar). Tile and grout is not waterproof. For floors - where there's traffic, particularly with dirty feets - I'd go commercial rated tile, which likely be porcelain plus a tough tough glaze. What else did we learn, hmm, oh yeah, any chance of staining, go grout about same colour as the stain source, e.g. same colour as the dirt, or on a backspash, coffee colour ...or go with the plastic or epoxy grouts, which kind of resist staining. There's lots of tricks/techniques to laying pan, hanging backerboard, cutting tile, spreading thinset, setting tile, applying mortar. ..At this stage, my best trick would be to do no more tile. :|
  2. Hulk

    Understanding COE

    I've run the eight glazes I chose (so far), and five of the school's glaze recipes through GlazeMaster and done some reading - Tony Hansen, Sue Peterson's book (her explanation of limits, imo, the best), some Hesselberth, Britt's book, have seen McLeod' work, aye, good stuff - more research an' testing t'go! "Adding silica works; but adding silica and alumina works better. ( aka EPK)" Will do, thanks 'nerd!
  3. Hulk

    Understanding COE

    "...I'm a member of this forum and plan to be for a long time into the future. Thanks you all.." Boah howdy (emphatic affirmative; it's a colloquialism)! A glaze I really like crazes badly (the checks are less than an 1/8 inch) on school clay, some improvement after adding silica, however, on my clay (at home), crazing is not nearly at bad, the pattern being much bigger, ~3/8 inch or more. What I'm not yet understanding is why the glaze crazes when several other glazes I'm using (at school and at home) have coe values in the same ballpark, or even higher. I'm guessing that the difference has to do with elasticity. The school clay, Laguna wc850, has low coe; home clay manufacturer does not publish coe values... Any road, more testing and research t'go, and will report back later on.
  4. Looks like a s'more! ...now me hungry, must smash snack
  5. ,) More, includes pics of Mark's cone packs http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/6923-making-cone-packs/
  6. Hi Carole! The instructor (and lab techs) at the local JC scoop lightweight granulated material that the cones are packed in to mix with clay to hold cone packs; I'm guessing the packs dry faster with the addition, and if not fully dry when pressed to service, quickly dry out as the kiln heats up. I use a thin ribbon of clay, just enough to hold the cones; I'm turning the edge up for a bit for strength. So far, my lil' cone packs aren't breaking or blowing up. Where/how to find the material, not sure 'bout that; likely vermiculite, which I'd stay away from, generally, as there may be asbestos, right? Would not grog (perhaps even green clay granules) serve same? Try searching "vermiculite for cone packs" and "cone packs"
  7. Hulk

    Waxing and dishwashers

    I don't know if any treatment for unglazed fired clay to limit/prevent absorption; other forum member(s) might know? As we don't (yet) know what clay is being used, perhaps a simple test? Try weighing out dry finished piece (my digi scale reads to nearest .01 gram); soak in water for a reasonable washing time, perhaps 20 minutes; reweigh. How do the pieces compare to commercial selection of pieces? Hmm... might try that out on my own pieces - I leave a substantial ring unglazed.
  8. Hulk

    Waxing and dishwashers

    Hi Macca, good question! What clay are you using, and how fired? How much area are you waxing? If using grogged and/or sanded clay, are you burnishing the exposed parts? Just about all the ceramic in our kitchen (some is handmade stoneware, the rest is commercial stuff) has an unglazed foot, be it a thin ring or more - like the entire foot. Generally, I'm cutting a ring and lightly glazing inside the ring, which leaves just the bottom and outside of the ring itself unglazed. I do burnish that ring after trimming - smoother and tighter, eh? Given that the published absorption of the stoneware we're using ranges from ~2-6%, an' nothing's blown up yet, I'm thinking it's good. I'm curious what other forum members have to say...
  9. Our weather finally turned, we got much needed rain and it's soo cold I'm wearing shoes and long pants inna studio now, too cold for flip flops an' shorts. Clay is stacked up in the other garage, not likely to ever freeze; we get frost on rooftops several times a year, have yet to see any frost on th' ground. A few miles inland it gets cooler, not so much here, with the Pacific close enough to hear and smell. Last spring I scoffed at warm throwing water, then turned right around and added from the warm tap, heh, got the horse laugh from our teacher. It was 40F outside this a.m.; hence 50s in the studio; I'm going to put a bag of clay inside to warm up for later.
  10. "I empathize with you." Thanks Liamb!
  11. ,) The select few go credit/no credit then repeat for grade, and/or get in under "independent study" or just wink. I can do one more semester as independent study, mebbe in a year or so; I'll miss seeing what others are working on, meeting people, and short cycle - weekly bisque and glaze fires. The other hand for me includes too dusty (really, just filthy), high probability of artificial fragrances (ranges from slightly uncomfortable to ruined day), and time spent to and fro.
  12. Nice work Shawn! Smooth an' easy, nice. I keep a large (Hulk size, o'course) sponge at the wheel (a grout sponge cut to about two thirds full size) - handy for cleaning hands, basin edge, tools, etc.; the smaller sponges - round and cut pieces of larger sponges (thanks Bill VG for that tip - purpose cut shapes) - are handy for working with the piece. Any road, I rag for drying only - hands, wheel head - not cleaning. At top of third pull, looks like a bit o'wobble introduced (~2 mins)? As reaching top of pull, slow the wheel (and therefore vertical speed) a bit, and remove hands/tools from work slooow and easy. Errm, maybe that wobble was a'ready there, idk. O'course, I still get wobbles, just startin' out here - less often than a few month ago, however. Looks like you keep just a few tools in the pan, easily found, aye. I'm engraining habit of putting tools down in same place (on right of pan for me, as clockwiser…), from right to left: needle, metal rib o'death, two wood knives, two wood ribs, bucket, small sponges in front o' bucket, Hulk sponge propped in back o'bucket, corked string (for hump cuts) and wire hanging off back o'bucket. Some o' the accomplished throwers spend time casting about for encrusted tools, heh. I toss the wetter clay and smoodge into the wet reclaim bucket just off my right foot, onna floor; the dryer chunks and clumps I'll pile up and later toss into the dry out (to later re-slake) bucket, hence the water bucket doesn't load up as quickly. ...which ain' faster, maybe slower. I'm ribbing the outside and using leather on the rim as well; looks like I'm wringing out the leather more - not much difference there. I'm not wiring off wet work - shuffling bats for me, else off the hump, and there, have found that taking a bit more clay (to later trim away, ugh) on the base to grab reduces the chance of deforming the work. Lately, just lids off the hump, as I'm measuring clay ball weight - trying for uniformity. I use plaster bats onna clay pad most o'th'time, powder board and plastic bats else. I'm not finding a lot of production/repeat work vids to watch out there; the Clinton vids are, imo, good. There's a few others. Check out ton a day Isaac Button. Clinton points out that making the same moves =repeat work. Aye that! He doesn't use any measuring sticks, don' need'm. Wow. Hence, I'm working on repeating the moves. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMjn7CrZp2vIqT1BwA8sZUQ Short version: try using a big sponge to clean hands, tools, etc. Put it down all wrung out and ready for next time. Second vid (is that Neil E? Hi Neil!), note full cone up an' down (more than magic three, he went four); imo, this is key to round and true work, for the clay is more homogenized and fully swirled about (err, "aligned particles" - meh, don' have a scanning electron microscope handy). From there, note attention to centering (no run out) before starting to open. Openin' - yeah, ah can't do that, my nervous system bein' what it is. I'm steading my hands on the piece whilst opening, just what it is, hence it's two thumbs for me, one feels, one supports, and the hands steadied by the centered lump. If the lump is running out, then stop, not time to open yet. Startin' th' pulls, note the time/revs spent at the bottom, getting clay moved into position; can't rush that. Nice work! Thanks Babs
  13. uh-oh, it's raining hard today, class last wet clay day ...wow, th' drops are bouncin', Pittsburg style. Time t'pack the torch an' get to class early
  14. Topic resonates; as local JC doesn't allow students to repeat courses, will be looking for "community"...any road, my experience with not for profit also says find the key leaders an' get'm on your board - twenty two years, seven kid's swim teams, all run by volunteer parents (the only paid position bein' th' coach, me); charter schools, private schools, volunteer parent; churches - they run on and by volunteers, eh? All about who and how they work together.

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