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Hulk

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  • Birthday October 13

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    TeeCeramic.com

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    : Chico, CA
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    Pizza, swimming, cycling, reading, puttering ...and ceramics

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  1. Workbench has some recently glazed wares waiting on foot polishing, inspection, and washing; and some just handled raw wares as well. The test tiles are IMCO's new "Terry" clay.
  2. ...the host advised bisque firing to cone 08 to avoid pinholes and blisters." Interesting! I'm curious why, as I'd thought bisque firing higher, with extended hold(s) at lower temperature(s), and with continuous atmosphere exchange* was standard advice for burning off "...products of decomposition..." Bisque (digitalfire.com) "Bisquit should be fired as high as possible." *via powered kiln vent, else convective scheme...
  3. Good question! I'm in my seventh year of throwing*. The sessions when most (or all) goes into the recycle bin (else dried a bit and then wedged up to re-throw) still occur - not as often tho'. The belts slipping could be throwing your throwing off! While waiting for your new belts, can you tell if there's slippage? The motor noise changes as you throttle the pedal - does the sound change without throttling? ...as drag on the wheel increases, does the motor rev? Hope it turns around for you, please do post updates. *At a hobby level, serious hobby, but not anything like full time. There's still improvement! Just recently I feel, think, and believe that I'm almost back where I was before injury and moving put a hold on my progress. There's plenty of room for improvements...
  4. Seeing (just a minute ago) there was an update on this thread, thought of some of my Parents' and Grandparents' tools that I treasure. The needle/pin tool I use most in the Studio was made from a small screwdriver that my Dad ground down to a point; it's a convenient length, and I like the handle as well. There are several, err, a few dozen potential replacements in the bad screwdriver bin, but the one I'm using is special, because. That's a nice caliper Hyn! Is there a vernier on the inch scale as well? I've several of Dad's calipers. There's a large one (it's big!) he bought when we were in Italy, and several smaller ones, both the vernier and dial indicator types, which will get you within a few thousandths or so. In the Studio I use inexpensive plastic calipers, similar to the brass one depicted in Hyn's post, above, except the jaws for measuring inside are opposite the outside jaws. When it wears out, there's several more queued up for "next"...
  5. Hi Mia00, Welcome to the Forum! I'm not finding anything on Email pottery wheels in general, let alone the particular Type and Catalog spec (which I'm not able to read) stamped on your ID plate. If the motor, speed controls, drive mechanism (are there pulleys and belt(s)?), wheel head shaft, bearings, et cetera, are in good shape (else can be refurbished/repaired), perhaps you can use the damaged/swollen parts as templates for replacements? Email Industries in New Zealand was involved with metals (particularly pipeline and plating), appliances, building and industrial products, and more ...interesting! The "Email" moniker is/was an acronym of Electric Meter and Allied Industries, coined in 1951, well before widespread use of Electronic Mail. Email sold items branded Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Simpson, Chef (and others) under license from overseas companies...
  6. I'm seeing a layer of slimy yuck against the plastic bucket, some reclaim batches, but not always - almost certainly organic growth, which goes on to its reward when growth/flourishing conditions turn "against" them...
  7. Definitely have some favorite small tools, however, not much special about any - easily replaced. I do like the MudTools metal rib that has a nice arc for bowl interiors. I use it only for that - other metal ribs for throwing and burnishing, for with use, the edges get thin and sharp*. The kiln and wheel, don't want to lose them! *taking the edge off with a file helps, but also changes the arc just a wee tiny bit, and those bits add up.
  8. Be sure to carefully check for application defects! This may be what was nagging at my memory? During yesterday's glaze session, while checking for tiny bubble marks and pinholes, an "ooh yeaa" moment: microtips - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community Where any air can be trapped in the clay, or at the edge of applied underglaze, or at the edge of wax resist, et cetera, as the glaze dries, then the bubble pops - there's a pinhole! I'm checking the glaze layers more carefully than ever!
  9. Here I'm using side light whilst touching up right after glaze (dipping, upside down). Light from the side casts shadow in the/any tiny holes*! There's a spot to touch up, center (almost) in the image above. I've an old desk lamp set in the roll around stand, that's the lamp's metal shade on the left. There's another spot, same mug. These little holes might just close up during firing, ooorrr maybe not. Easy enough to put a drop of glaze on the spot with a small brush, then, when the drop is still wet but the edges of it have lost sheen, smooth with a damp finger, but check later to ensure the hole hasn't persisted! Recent thread(s) about tiny holes, I'd forgotten about application issues, like this, where a bubble forms during glazing. In my quests against glaze defects, inspecting the damp glaze, and rechecking once thoroughly dry seems to help! *I'd learned to drag a droplight around with me while looking for defects when I worked as a house painter; the side light really helps. At this point, I'm working with "sunglasses" on all the time, early cataracts. ...also, I don't wear the latest prescription in the Studio.
  10. Good question. That hole in the lid might be original? Kiln has to "breathe" enough to move water vapor (early in the firing) and the various fumes (later in the firing). If the kiln can reach temperature with the vent unobstructed, perhaps just let it be?
  11. I broke a half shelf in the moving process last year. The pieces (I'd trimmed off the ragged edges with the tile saw (wet saw) can be handy. A full shelf, or another half shelf is on my shopping list; the vendor was all out last time...
  12. Ceramic Shop lists this part: SBCBWHA From Clay Planet website: "14” wheel head with sturdy steel structure and long lasting polypropolene[sic] composite surface "
  13. Check to see if this Operating Manual matches your unit? There's wiring diagrams at the end. Note the thermocouple spec, page thirteen. See also the current/power specs... Topworker P59750 P59760 P59770 P59590 manual A.pdf (wsimg.com)
  14. Might get more than ten years! Post part number(s) if you have them Pluton, please. That rack and pinion potentiometer brings back memories! ...many instances of "come with me" to point out a failed potentiometer - some were gear driven, some had a cable that wound/unwound a reel - providing position data on sheet steel production lines in the steel mill where I once worked*. When automation failed, just finding the fault/problem/cause wasn't enough, no, there "had to" be concrete proof. *the mill is fully closed now. The 87 acres "under roof" to be converted to a Ama*** warehouse!
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