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Hulk

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About Hulk

  • Rank
    Tom
  • Birthday October 13

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Osos, CA - a pile o' damp sand
  • Interests
    Pizza, swimming, cycling, reading, puttering ...and ceramics

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  1. Hi Lakin, I believe the sitter serves as a fail safe - shut down the kiln when the target temp is reached; however, not a substitute for being on site and monitoring whilst firing. I would recommend using a pyrometer to watch the rate(s) of change and your target, and placing cone packs on each level/shelf to check for variance (and also to compare against your pyrometer reading). Others do fine with just watching cone packs through the peep holes (wearing the appropriate safety glasses - welding type, which screen harmful rays!!), even just watching the colour of the glowing wares (same glasses, of course). I'm not very experienced in firing, so I'm watching the meter readings and comparing the readings against actual Orton cones. imo, too much can go wrong with the sitter to depend on it for shutting down at target temp. Pyrometric "cones" are formulated to melt and bend over at target temperate; from there, read about and understand what "heat work" is... I have this pyro, thought it was adequate and a competitive price as well, Aardvark Clay in LA, CA
  2. Bold and highlight lid switch over remembering to check power (truly) off before reaching in there... ...for those contemplatin' replacing their mechs or otherwise adding SSRs to their site which ain' got no lid switch...
  3. Silly* studio details/thing(s) overlooked - how did I not see't? ...bought a cheap-ish 2000g digi scale last July, just noticed that it was miscalibrated to display 1/2 grams! Either I never calibrated it, or (more likely) used one of the two 200g weights to calibrate it last July. It does what it's told to do. For test batches of glaze, it's proportions that count, so no harm there. What jumped out at me this week: at first, thought the cheap-ish 100 ml graduated cylinder I bought was wrong, haha, as 100 ml of water weighs 200g? No matter, weight of glaze/weight of water for same volume yields specific gravity, but why is scale "wrong," hmm? The good news bein' all them balls of clay weighed out these last eight months were half the weight me "thought" - hence why my pots so small for the weight of clay concerns evaporated like morning mists ...hrmm, mebbe the foot tall three poun' cylinder club me can join sooner over (much much) later? *Silly as in obvious and outcome mostly harmless; that said, should members wish to recount drastic/tragic scenarios, go to it - if any tragedy could be averted, it'd be worth't
  4. "Girls usually continue to grow until a bone age of about 14 years, and boys stop growing after a bone age of 16 years..." ...besides the variance of maturity at eighteen - from reached adult "size" a few years ago to a few growth spurts (years) still to go; no throwin' 'til eighteen sounds arbitrary to ludicrous t'me.
  5. Bone fully developed at 18 yrs, hmm, not specific enough, imo, as (generally) the boys/men at 18 don't catch up to same age girls/women for a year or two or three.
  6. If your phone cable will plug into your computer, typically files (such as photos!) can be copied from the phone - be sure to have your phone open/unlocked. From there, this site has a file size limit, hence you may have to snip the picture and save it in a smaller (e.g. .jpg) format...
  7. Depends on the kind, or "series"... Google say stainless melts ~2550-2880F; 400 series at the higher end, which, btw, are magnetic. The working temps, naturally, are well below the melting temps...
  8. Hi London! Can you post a pot pic? Typically the part the pot sits on is left unglazed, else the pot stick to the kiln shelf when glaze fired; from there, the glazed/unglazed margin may be higher up the side of the pot - that's up to the potter, eh? Although I'll typically glaze to a "natural break" (e.g. the edge of the foot, a ring/groove that I turned whilst trimming, etc.) near the foot of the pot, sometimes I like to leave a broad band of raw clay, especially toasty (non-white) clays; from there, I typically highlight any carving/chattering with glaze or underglaze as well, with or without a glaze over that.
  9. Hi Lady! In You Tube, select the "Settings" icon (which look like a gear), then speed, then select your desired speed; post back if You Tube isn't in question ...ah'm headed out to the studio for some hours!
  10. oops, cater corner from Trinidad Elementary on Trinity Street, yep. My brother and I spent summer '70 there, an' several weeks every summer thereafter until grandpa passed; I don' remember being there in 60-61 when gramps got hurt - I was little, err, young.
  11. We have two plain ol' Toto units - water savers, easy clean. Side side note, Gran'ma an' Gran'pa lived cater corner across from Trinity elementary ...looks like 463 Trinity St on google map, was a clothing store last time we were there, ~2005
  12. ...check Fireshades "Vivid Blue"
  13. Hi Alexandra! Please specify temperature you'll be firing to, your glazes (over the underglaze, if any), and the clay(s) you'll be using? That said, Amaco's "Electric Blue" might be close, depending on the temp; "Vivid Blue" Mason stain might be close as well.
  14. Just startin' out here, not likely to run out of glaze questions, ever; ah don' even have the rainbow dialed yet - no yellow, orange or true violet. Mark, you gonna love your toto.
  15. "If I am outdoors, I am in a hat, and often also indoors if I am away from home." Aye that!
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