Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  1. I have a question regarding some theory I read in the text The Kiln Book. On page 78 of the 4th Edition, it states that: "At the point where the exit flues enter the chimney, they should be restricted so that the chimney cross section is larger than this flue area" In the diagram (3-11) beneath this, it shows decreasing the point of entry to the chimney by 25% (from 4 bricks to 3), coming from the kiln exit flue. What's the thought behind this? I'm happy to trust my elders, but I'd also like to know what the theory is. I'm curious how this decrease affects the firing, vs keeping the same area of flow in the inlet flue>exit flue>chimney entry>chimney. As I'm building a chimney coming up in the next couple weeks, I'd love to figure this out. I can taper in the walls of the exit flue to the entry point of the chimney, which would accelerate flow heading into the chimney (while also creating slight backpressure?), which would then open back up to the full area of the chimney as it rises. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
  2. Old Alpine Conversion

    Hi Mark. Yes, it's in Arcata. It was donated to FireArts, but has been sitting a while. Looking forward to getting it going again.
  3. Old Alpine Conversion

    Hi Neil. As none of the original burner/blower system remains, and as it's going to be cost prohibitive to rebuild it, I will need to modify the burners as outlined either way. As for the chimney, I need to cut a hole in the roof out of the firing area and add a storm collar, etc. and wont be able to move the chimney once it's installed (and there is only one position for the kiln, so I can't shift it). If I fire it updraft with the new burners and don't like it, I'll be stuck. For that reason, I'm going to stick with this updated design. Building a chimney out of softbrick isn't that complicated or expensive, even with the costs of welding the frame out of angle iron. Thank you for the suggestion though. If I had the option to build everything out and test fire it as updraft, without being locked in, I would.
  4. Old Alpine Conversion

    I'm beginning a kiln conversion/update project and thought I would create a thread here for those interested, and to get feedback as I go along. I have access to a late 1950's Alpine kiln, and now have a place to fire it. It's been sitting for a long time, but I believe will be perfect with a little time and TLC. All the bones are solid, and other than some rust on the exterior, I think it will work great (estimated 12-14 cubic feet). My primary interest is having it as a cone 10 reduction kiln, specifically to experiment with shinos. The kiln was originally designed as an updraft kiln, two forced air burners entering low on either side of the front next to the door. As I've read these kilns could be hard to fire evenly, I'm converting it into a downdraft kiln with floor fire burner placement. Ill plug up the original vents on top and need to build an exit flue and chimney behind the kiln. I've attached my designs for what I propose. At this point trying to decide between MR-750 and MR-100 Venturi burners (4 total firing on Natural Gas). Would love to hear from you if you have any positive suggestions. Thanks and I'll keep you posted as it unfolds.

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.