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Mark C.

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Everything posted by Mark C.

  1. Formica-is the best. The Bailey table is cut so the wheels roll the slab onto the table-I woul hold off builing that table until you have the machine. Unless you are talking table top model. I have the 30 inch electric model and would not get anything else .
  2. I have a corded Milwaukee 7 inch and do not use it on kiln wash-I use a corded Mikita 4 inch -I also have the 18v cordless Mikita 4 inch but do not trash it on wash grinding. I think a cheapy grinder for shelves is best-the harbor frieght is a good option. Wash will kill it over time
  3. I lloked up that kiln number and could not find it. I will say 6 burners is way better than the 4 burner ones. There has been much posted on these kilns so do search from main page-they are hard to fire even but your 6 burner will work better than the smaller tw or 4 burner ones. Are you sure on the 2381 model #s???
  4. I to think 110V is not what should be at the solenoid-usually is much less volts from a step down transformer .The pilot has to be lite and on for the kiln to light up as well.
  5. I would trake it apart and clean the screens-if you cannot do that wet that clay deep in the machine.(may take some days) Add more clay to it and try again
  6. You can also use stainless pipe clamps to attcach to metal stand.
  7. No its not showing here either only this? in a blue square
  8. No need to bisque as said above. The stuff can show thru a glaze or as noted above change the way a glaze looks where its applied. For that reason sand as much off as you can while sill filling the crack.
  9. I would add that flat fabric looks better than those wrinkles-change material to somethong that lays flat.
  10. Did you call the little loafers clay folks and ask about recent changes to the body or are you just fed up with it. Sometimes ingredients or water supply changes and so does the body-maybe thay had a bad batch and you got some??? I have never been a loafer kind of guy on a side note the view count is low as the site is rather slow now that school is out everywhere.summer slow down has begun
  11. I only have news that to make it right you need a better clay and glaze fit-firing it again will not make that happen . What clay and what glaze and what temp did you fire it to?With that info someone here can guide you thru this to have a better outcome.
  12. I think the the best method is not to get wax where you do not want it. If its dripping its to thin. I use a sponge and wring out any excess to control really is key. The way you hold pots so drips fall aways is a good habit if your are a slob with drips. One hand for wax one hand for wares is also a key point. You learn a lot but doing huge volumes of wares and how to keep mistakes from happening in the 1st place Now if you do get some on a spot there are a few tricks. 1st is keep a wet (water) sponge next too yoiu so you can wipe it up immediacy or sooner before it drys-this is about 90% effective second is to sand the spot with sandpaper or even use a dremil tool to grind a bit of bisque off third you can rub the spot with another broken picece of same clay body thats bisqued to get the particles teh same so glaze sticks well-this is a tricky deal as to must dust makes it crawl more. 4th burn it off with a hand torch but you need to know not to hold it there to long as that will crack the ware tso this my friens is a learned skill but works really well -not to much heat and spread it out over an larger area. I work with porcelain which is not forgiving like stonewares. I like to do a combo of some of the above items . I gave up rebisquing 40 years ago as a waste of everything as these tecniques work just as well.
  13. These plates are hand built not thrown which can add to the issue as well. Glaze on one side is problematic in many regards .
  14. Opening a kiln while really hot just sortens the life of the bricks and furniture-they can take it (unless the shelves are advancers) I unbricked a kiln at cone 10 once-distroyed the wares-it was 1972.My kiln -I learned never to do that again. Nice to know the limits. 300 is safe enough.
  15. Since they bought that company-they sell direct parts I think for their stuff.
  16. I suggest getting another wheel.
  17. Yes exactly-you want the water in the hopper at the barrel side(left) away from the vacumme side. This info comes from the manufacture
  18. I think thats an older wheel and the price seems way high. If its a cone drive I suggest moving on.
  19. Here's a friend recipe that will maybe work for you its cone 10 soft fired Here’s our base glaze—could just call it Satin Matt, I guess. Doesn’t exactly come out to 1000 gram batch, but oh well! Custer 347 Dolomite 196 Whiting 31 EPK 247 Silica 227 1 percent tin oxide 5 percent zircopax You can paint any colorants over it you like as well
  20. I seem to have started to really use less tools these days sponge/water needle tool wood stick with point screwdriver to pry plaster bats off of clay pad I rarely use a cutoff wire unless the pot is over 10 #s as its thrown then on a plastic bat and need one vs not using one on plaster bats.
  21. Well I feel better already ,out of my 5 wheel none reverse. one less thing I guess.
  22. I soften clay alot in my VPM 30.I just cut the pugs into 1/4s and add a tiny bit of water to barrel end of machine. I only add slip if its scrap clay.Never to new clay from the bag.
  23. Concrete cannot take the temps in a ceramic kiln so the answer is not glaze will not work. You can test concrete in your fire pit and see where it goes bad at.
  24. B-mix throws like dream as its white stoneware. The trick to porcelain handles is put them on when the pot and handle are just right and cover them for 1/2 or 1 day under plastic.If you do not put them on jusr right then they will crack. Stoneware is 99% more forgiving in many aspects. Also porcealin bodies vary greatly in throwing as to legs The super white ones like Babu or 550 from Laguna Clay throw far worse than say the slightly less white ones like Daves Porcelain that I usew so much of. I throw small stuff from those grollog bodies as they are like cream cheese.
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