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Mark C.

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Everything posted by Mark C.

  1. If one is thinking about using commercial wash .I would make my own wash and remove with a wet sponge before firing any commercial wash as it usually poor quality. Speaking of quailty wash I noticed on the Advander shelve (kiln shelve.com ) site they use the same formula as I posted years ago 1/2 alumina hydrate 1/4 epk 1/4 calcined EPK or (glowmax)
  2. I would make my own wash and remove with a wet sponge before firing any commercial wash as it usually poor quality. Speaking of quailty wash I noticed on the Advancer shelve (kiln shelve.com ) site they use the same formula as I posted years ago 1/2 alumina hydrate 1/4 epk 1/4 calcined EPK or (glowmax)
  3. My guess is freezing as well-one to many, but really trial and error is the only wat to know.
  4. Firing two glaze fires today still trying to appease the pit monster.I can now work 1/2 days before foot say no more.Spent many 1/2 days glazzing and loading up till todays firing. Spring mini heat wave yesterday (81 was the high and the low was 37) it's a 3 day deal.
  5. The gap looks fine and I would not cement it.Cold bottom is normal as well
  6. New clay =Rocks/stones/ sticks and cat poop/small metal bits My recycle -small stones and grass
  7. Yes that nozzle is what I was speaking about-as you will need a nozzel the specks are- ITEM IS NEW, OD 12 5/8 inches ID 9 5/8 inches
  8. I make square slab plates on a plaster slump molds . they are not footed (no coils added). They pop off the plaster well and have a curve to them which lessens in the glazze fire. They have a square area that is flat in about 1/3 of the form with the lip angled up. I have to sizes and have way better luck with the smaller 8-9 inch than the larger 14-12 inch which loves to lay down to much in a glaze fire
  9. For me throwing the whokle thing on the wheel is faster by far. The time is trimming a foot.The wares are solid and do not warp. The compression is good and no memory issues with the clay .
  10. I threw my first pots yesterday after a 8. week break. I had a tarsal tunnel surgery on right foot and out of cast now and in a boot for a month. I got off crutches and knee scooter about 4 days ago and am taking baby steps towards walking again. Going to make some small stuff this am as well. Slowly getting back to it. Lots of PT and doing my PT 3 times a day then ICE and infrared light. Compression sleeve 99% on time as well . Wound is about 5 inchs long and coming along nicely. This surgery was a real setback for 8 weeks. I have a large order to fill this spring and am just starting to get to it. I will be driving my self again within a day-ya hoo PS tarsel tunnel is just like carpel tunnel on wrist only on the foot. Both by feet have it. I shosse the worst right foot to do this year -if it gets better in 3-6 months I will conside the other one. Right now that sound really like a bad idea but once I;m healed up and if it works then I will think more about it on other foot.Surgery was a 4 hour trip away one way. Specialized doctor for this type of surgery of course.
  11. I have a double ended crabide custom trim tool very close to a Kemper is R2 -6 inches long that Bison tools made me long ago. I use this as my only trim tool. I have worn two out so far in life. I have two spares now when this one wears out . So I'm set.
  12. I'll get those measurements tomorrow-I'll be guessing on the Id on the larger end-OD is easy
  13. Just need a top and the barrel made up. There is a new peter pugger barrel on ebay now. I own that vp20 (its the same one on ebay) so I can measure that diameter for you if you go that route .
  14. I can grind an insulator down and send it along with a clamp if needed?
  15. Yes you could look for used one I see them pop up all the time-Not sure of your location if its out in the boonies like mine then thats an issue
  16. Luster fire is so low firing a main kiln is no big deal its just dull red heat
  17. Luster needs the same temp every time .(so as noted above ,cone 019 is that temp no matter what) Refiring can be improve or not-it just that way-try and see.
  18. quit using crimp connectors and get the better clamp ones from Euclids-If you had the clamps you only need a short wire to get it to clamp. I have extra insulators so I would grind one down on my bench grinder and that would expose enough pitail to clean and clamp and on with the show. Creative fix is needed.
  19. I think its best to fire off the old imperfections 1st than start over especially if its rough surface. Luster need a smooth shiny glaze to work well on top of.
  20. I think a wire brush is to mellow. Thats a lot of corrosion and it will get in the clay unless its removed. These come up for sale now and then as well. Never seen one in this bad of shape
  21. Take it to a shop that can sandblast it then a fab welding shop to get that part done Nunca must have a few shops like that
  22. Do not worry about making more holes -Those can all be patched
  23. I would sand blast it for sure to get down to clean metal. You can weld (have a shop do this) a patch on any hole spot from the outside or inside and grind smooth all the inner welds(take the auger out,fully taking the unit apart). You cannot have holes in any opart of the barrel
  24. Composite? John whats your guess on that material ? I have only seen aluminum heads
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