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Mark C.

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Everything posted by Mark C.

  1. Brent thought using exposed particle board was a good idea. It was a very poor choice, The holes that the 3 deck connectors(carriage bolts) penetrate also need to be sealed. I siliconed mine. I should add that I only trim on this wheel so not wet stuff happens on it.
  2. The will it burn post got me thinking this may help a few.For Me here in California as full time production potter guy my insurance on studio from homeowners is ZERO coverage. My agent long ago (70's) said no way-The house is 20 feet away and the line of coverage is somewhere in between as far as my homeowners insurance(state farm). I have two electrics just out side of studio door and two gas Kilns 10 feet away. My salt kiln is about 100 feet away . I bought commercial Liability insurance (about 320$) that covers 10 k for fire on shop if (or when) it burns as well as being sued when someone chokes on eating a mug as well as theft of breakage on 15 K worth of ceramics . I will say that most insurance companies will drop you after 1 claim. I say this from other pro potters (3 that I know) who filed and then got dumped after settling the claim. If I was a hobby potter the whole picture would be different and most Homeowners insurance will cover some crafts area. As long as its all done with permits My permit was in the 70's for a 2 inch gas line on a separate meter.Things sort of grew from there. Hope this helps someone. Mark
  3. Mine are mini vases and mini bowls-sponge holders and spoon rests -small cat bowls-extruded soap dishes. Smalls are where I make the most money selling as they sell to everyone.
  4. When it comes to scraps-they are different if dried. The fines that Min talks about are also a key component. I never pug dry clay scraps-but thats with porcelain.Stoneware is more forgiving.I only add my wet clay to pugged clay. If you want better results with dry rewetted clay add the fines and a little vinegar -pug it and let it sit for a few months. It will never have the legs (meaning throws better)as original clay but it will throw better that what you have now.
  5. Mark C.

    Orange Red Iron Glaze

    (It looks fantastic on Porcelain) Thats why I use porcelain-the glazes POP-also its very hard and chip resistant.
  6. If you go laminate -I suggest a thinned soak coat of oil base polyurethane than another two to 3 coats. I taped off the top on my two model A's they have same tops as yours.
  7. Yes the handles do need work but you are on the right path as nothing beats making and making and did I say making more. The glazing will come as thats another Bunch of doing over and over.
  8. What country are you in? whats HTP? also what is Iceberg kaolin's alumina content-if you had say epk (Edgars Plastic EPF from Florida it has enough alumina to keep warping down-you could just as say 3% more but since I have never heard of Iceberg epk I do know the contents of it? When our cone 10 slip cast products slumped we cured this by a cheap fix of just little more alumina which was in the epk.
  9. Use a chamois on the lips as this will help round them over.
  10. I'm unclear on why the plates are upside down?They should be fired on their feet rightsize up.Also are you firing them to fast or cooling to fast? A kiln load of plates should be slow fired and slow cooled. These look like prefinished bought plates?
  11. Mark C.

    Kiln Wash Mistake

    If I was you I would mix up the same batch as you posted in 1st post- do not add that much water and zero Darvan. Mix up like heavy cream and use a roller and roll it on your shelves -dry between coats two coats max. here is post on this I did back in 2012 Be happy.
  12. No have too have the right glasses to view cones without hurting your eyes. The rays are bad for you. Get the welding glasss that is suggested in many threads-set the cones in front of a solid surface check it out when you are loading to make sure its visible . Its all part of the learning curve. Many biginners struggle with this so just work thru it.Get a laser pointer if you want-You have to see the cone that matters in terms of end point shut down.If you cannot do this drill a larger spy plug hole in center of kiln and make a larger soft brick plug to plug hole.
  13. Get the welding googles-do a search from main page on this as its be covered to death here. Spotting cones in any hole is a skill. You need a backdrop brick and the right dark wielding glass-(some like a laser light)-I have never used one. In small holes only one or two cones can be viewed .-Just make sure the chunk of soft brick or a clay slab sits behind to give you a visual wall to view the cones. again this is a skill and the right safety glass-you will use both. I searched the main page and there are many threads on reading cones here is one
  14. Big local show was a success for all-great weather-huge turnout

    1. Denice


      Time to go on vacation.   Denice

    2. Mark C.

      Mark C.

      Actually time to do another out of state show then leave the country


  15. Mark C.

    Custer Feldspan vs Soda Feldspar

    I do not fire to cone 6 so its a test and see deal.Now that you have mixed it try it. In high fire (cone 10) most of of all my glazes uses potash feldspar. Which for most is custar. For me its a lifetime supply of Kingman feldspar I bought in 1982 as they closed the mine.
  16. You need both cones and a pyro-the cones tell you when the fire is done (end point). The pyro tells you that the kiln is still climbing when in reduction and that its not stalled out (not climbing) In Gas firing you use both cones and a pyrometer. Again fire until 1800 degrees burring clean then push in the damper until flames come out (this is when your digital pyrometer ) will tell you the fire is slowed down but still climbing . Keep some reduction until the cones are end point and fire is over-close damper .
  17. Burn the clean with clean flame until 1800 degrees-then push in the damper over the flue Exit until a flame comes out as noted in above post. when its reducing its not a clean but a dirty atmosphere . Flames will come out your spy plugs. This is when you need a digital pyrometer to see if kiln is stalled out or climbing . They are pretty cheap so get one if you plan on doing this as well as a protection type for actually thermocouple. Keep the kiln is reduction while it climbs to whoever temp you are going to. Use a kiln shelve cut to make a sliding damper over hole . It can be between the bricks you have there. Moving those bricks is a pain compared to a damper
  18. Mark C.

    Gare mini kiln

    One switch means rocket away-ZOOM-you could aways turn in off and on a bit as it heats up to slow it down. I doubt they named these kilns from the freshwater Gar fish?
  19. Mark C.

    Gare mini kiln

    I am not familiar with a Gar kiln but am very familiar with that cone sitter. Buy a box of bar cones for the sitter-These cone will be your turn off temperature (so whatever you fire to -lets say you are going to fire to cone 08-buy a box of 50 small bar cones that are cone 08. That sitter is made by Dawson and you can look up instructions on how to use it. its here https://www.paragonweb.com/files/manuals/Kiln-Sitter Models P & K Operating Manual.pdf there are also endless tube videos on it as well. since its only one switch that means its on full-so it must be a very small kiln. Make sure all your work is Bone dry as it will heat up fast-you can prop the lid open with a soft brick of a an hour or so which will slow the heating down to dry things out. Jewelry is usually thin and get dry fast. It will take at least one fire to test the cone setter-you should also get a few larger cones and put them inside the fire to see how even the fire is and if that sitter cone is also accurate -it may need adjusting-ascovered in Manuel .
  20. Mark C.

    Plaster Bats? Need Advice.

    (If you ever get 'roun' these parts, give me a shout.) Just look for the huge Green Guy?Or the people running away like Godzilla?
  21. I agree with Neil on the fix.The thickness can be a little different but you will have to move the bearing/sprocket/pully on the wheel head up to down to get hot exactly where it was before.HDPE is really the way to go-you can buy this at a plastic outlet store or online from a place like Tap Plastic.com. A extra large and thick cutting board made from this will work as well from a restaurant supply. You will find you may need a wheel puller to get the pull off. The wheel head has 3 bolts to remove..Make sure you drill the hole in the exact spot on the new deck as the old one a well.
  22. Mark C.

    How To Improve?

    (Centering & throwing 50 mugs, 100 cylinders, 75 bowls--even for years--ain't nuthin-- if the goal is to (however long it takes) get really good at it, including finally hitting the break-through "ah-ha" moment that will come eventually.) the only way to improve is lots of practice-you put the time in and it will come.
  23. Mark C.

    OM4 Ball Clay and soluble salts

    OM 4 is just like a lot of other ball clays-very minor differences in most of them.-I have no idea about adding barium to ball clay-what temps is this statement applies to-diffently not my cone 10 area. as to(Is there an alternative the barium? Will strontium work) yes it can be direct substitute but the color will be different and the same pin holing issues will apply.
  24. 9 boxes (262#s)left yesterday to Harmony Ca .Another potter stopped by on way south and is taking them for me on His way to Santa Barbara. I sweetened the deal with a 50$ bill for them for extra gas. One less thing on the bench. Big show this weekend so bench is clear. Another out of state show in 3 weeks so lots of greenware piling up.
  25. I keep a log book-well actually many-I have about 8-10 books filled up, and a current one going for my gas car kiln. I only keep about 4 lines per fire. time started -partial reduction time -mid climb maybe? and shut of time and temp and cone melt position as well as the oxygen meter reading. One log book for the car kiln-they are all the same size smaller books from the University store on Campus. This may be my 10th log on that kiln ? Also a thicker smaller log for the 12 cubic gas kiln. I also have a salt kiln log book-this book has more firing info per fire than any other On my gas kilns I only log the glaze fires.No bisques which always happen before a glaze in car kiln.so I can just double the glaze numbers. I keep a clip board near the electrics (manual kilns ) and log any bisques that happen(date only)-I'm on many many pages even though I only fire 4-8 of these a year over the past 45 years-I also write down element changes and maintenance I have always kept records although very brief.

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