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Mark C.

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About Mark C.

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/15/1953

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  • Website URL
    http://www.liscomhillpottery.com

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Near Arcata Ca-redwood rain forest
  • Interests
    Diving-underwater photo-salvage diving-dive Travel
    Extreme offshore tuna fishing off north coast of Ca.

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  1. Brent thought using exposed particle board was a good idea. It was a very poor choice, The holes that the 3 deck connectors(carriage bolts) penetrate also need to be sealed. I siliconed mine. I should add that I only trim on this wheel so not wet stuff happens on it.
  2. Mine are mini vases and mini bowls-sponge holders and spoon rests -small cat bowls-extruded soap dishes. Smalls are where I make the most money selling as they sell to everyone.
  3. When it comes to scraps-they are different if dried. The fines that Min talks about are also a key component. I never pug dry clay scraps-but thats with porcelain.Stoneware is more forgiving.I only add my wet clay to pugged clay. If you want better results with dry rewetted clay add the fines and a little vinegar -pug it and let it sit for a few months. It will never have the legs (meaning throws better)as original clay but it will throw better that what you have now.
  4. Mark C.

    Orange Red Iron Glaze

    (It looks fantastic on Porcelain) Thats why I use porcelain-the glazes POP-also its very hard and chip resistant.
  5. If you go laminate -I suggest a thinned soak coat of oil base polyurethane than another two to 3 coats. I taped off the top on my two model A's they have same tops as yours.
  6. Yes the handles do need work but you are on the right path as nothing beats making and making and did I say making more. The glazing will come as thats another Bunch of doing over and over.
  7. What country are you in? whats HTP? also what is Iceberg kaolin's alumina content-if you had say epk (Edgars Plastic EPF from Florida it has enough alumina to keep warping down-you could just as say 3% more but since I have never heard of Iceberg epk I do know the contents of it? When our cone 10 slip cast products slumped we cured this by a cheap fix of just little more alumina which was in the epk.
  8. Use a chamois on the lips as this will help round them over.
  9. I'm unclear on why the plates are upside down?They should be fired on their feet rightsize up.Also are you firing them to fast or cooling to fast? A kiln load of plates should be slow fired and slow cooled. These look like prefinished bought plates?
  10. Mark C.

    Kiln Wash Mistake

    If I was you I would mix up the same batch as you posted in 1st post- do not add that much water and zero Darvan. Mix up like heavy cream and use a roller and roll it on your shelves -dry between coats two coats max. here is post on this I did back in 2012 Be happy.
  11. No have too have the right glasses to view cones without hurting your eyes. The rays are bad for you. Get the welding glasss that is suggested in many threads-set the cones in front of a solid surface check it out when you are loading to make sure its visible . Its all part of the learning curve. Many biginners struggle with this so just work thru it.Get a laser pointer if you want-You have to see the cone that matters in terms of end point shut down.If you cannot do this drill a larger spy plug hole in center of kiln and make a larger soft brick plug to plug hole.
  12. Get the welding googles-do a search from main page on this as its be covered to death here. Spotting cones in any hole is a skill. You need a backdrop brick and the right dark wielding glass-(some like a laser light)-I have never used one. In small holes only one or two cones can be viewed .-Just make sure the chunk of soft brick or a clay slab sits behind to give you a visual wall to view the cones. again this is a skill and the right safety glass-you will use both. I searched the main page and there are many threads on reading cones here is one
  13. Big local show was a success for all-great weather-huge turnout

    1. Denice

      Denice

      Time to go on vacation.   Denice

    2. Mark C.

      Mark C.

      Actually time to do another out of state show then leave the country

       

  14. Mark C.

    Custer Feldspan vs Soda Feldspar

    I do not fire to cone 6 so its a test and see deal.Now that you have mixed it try it. In high fire (cone 10) most of of all my glazes uses potash feldspar. Which for most is custar. For me its a lifetime supply of Kingman feldspar I bought in 1982 as they closed the mine.
  15. You need both cones and a pyro-the cones tell you when the fire is done (end point). The pyro tells you that the kiln is still climbing when in reduction and that its not stalled out (not climbing) In Gas firing you use both cones and a pyrometer. Again fire until 1800 degrees burring clean then push in the damper until flames come out (this is when your digital pyrometer ) will tell you the fire is slowed down but still climbing . Keep some reduction until the cones are end point and fire is over-close damper .
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