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Mark C.

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About Mark C.

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/15/1953

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  • Website URL
    http://www.liscomhillpottery.com

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  • Location
    Near Arcata Ca-redwood rain forest
  • Interests
    Diving-underwater photo-salvage diving-dive Travel
    Extreme offshore tuna fishing off north coast of Ca.

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  1. Formica-is the best. The Bailey table is cut so the wheels roll the slab onto the table-I woul hold off builing that table until you have the machine. Unless you are talking table top model. I have the 30 inch electric model and would not get anything else .
  2. I have a corded Milwaukee 7 inch and do not use it on kiln wash-I use a corded Mikita 4 inch -I also have the 18v cordless Mikita 4 inch but do not trash it on wash grinding. I think a cheapy grinder for shelves is best-the harbor frieght is a good option. Wash will kill it over time
  3. I lloked up that kiln number and could not find it. I will say 6 burners is way better than the 4 burner ones. There has been much posted on these kilns so do search from main page-they are hard to fire even but your 6 burner will work better than the smaller tw or 4 burner ones. Are you sure on the 2381 model #s???
  4. Hope you got my message to make sure to test #5....I am pretty sure it's your talc and I have about 20 pounds at least

    1. Mark C.

      Mark C.

      yes I'm dry firing all the samples against my know ones. 

      It will be a few days now to cool and hopefully I'll have a few answers.

      we did identify a few-I'll have to go get the results in studio on Friday-I'll let you know in a few days the whole story.

    2. MFP

      MFP

      Great!  I didn't see this post before I answered the other one.  I am really hoping #5 is talc....I have a lot of it. I also contacted the Us geological service for you. There are six mines in the US....I told them the problem about the grey talc and asked where I could get the white kind. We will see if they answer. 

  5. I to think 110V is not what should be at the solenoid-usually is much less volts from a step down transformer .The pilot has to be lite and on for the kiln to light up as well.
  6. I would trake it apart and clean the screens-if you cannot do that wet that clay deep in the machine.(may take some days) Add more clay to it and try again
  7. You can also use stainless pipe clamps to attcach to metal stand.
  8. No its not showing here either only this? in a blue square
  9. No need to bisque as said above. The stuff can show thru a glaze or as noted above change the way a glaze looks where its applied. For that reason sand as much off as you can while sill filling the crack.
  10. I would add that flat fabric looks better than those wrinkles-change material to somethong that lays flat.
  11. Did you call the little loafers clay folks and ask about recent changes to the body or are you just fed up with it. Sometimes ingredients or water supply changes and so does the body-maybe thay had a bad batch and you got some??? I have never been a loafer kind of guy on a side note the view count is low as the site is rather slow now that school is out everywhere.summer slow down has begun
  12. I only have news that to make it right you need a better clay and glaze fit-firing it again will not make that happen . What clay and what glaze and what temp did you fire it to?With that info someone here can guide you thru this to have a better outcome.
  13. I think the the best method is not to get wax where you do not want it. If its dripping its to thin. I use a sponge and wring out any excess to control really is key. The way you hold pots so drips fall aways is a good habit if your are a slob with drips. One hand for wax one hand for wares is also a key point. You learn a lot but doing huge volumes of wares and how to keep mistakes from happening in the 1st place Now if you do get some on a spot there are a few tricks. 1st is keep a wet (water) sponge next too yoiu so you can wipe it up immediacy or sooner before it drys-this is about 90% effective second is to sand the spot with sandpaper or even use a dremil tool to grind a bit of bisque off third you can rub the spot with another broken picece of same clay body thats bisqued to get the particles teh same so glaze sticks well-this is a tricky deal as to must dust makes it crawl more. 4th burn it off with a hand torch but you need to know not to hold it there to long as that will crack the ware tso this my friens is a learned skill but works really well -not to much heat and spread it out over an larger area. I work with porcelain which is not forgiving like stonewares. I like to do a combo of some of the above items . I gave up rebisquing 40 years ago as a waste of everything as these tecniques work just as well.
  14. These plates are hand built not thrown which can add to the issue as well. Glaze on one side is problematic in many regards .
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