Jump to content

Mark C.

Members
  • Content Count

    8,313
  • Joined

  • Last visited

4 Followers

About Mark C.

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/15/1953

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.liscomhillpottery.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Near Arcata Ca-redwood rain forest
  • Interests
    Diving-underwater photo-salvage diving-dive Travel
    Extreme offshore tuna fishing off north coast of Ca.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I would water soak them ,dry and reuse. They made it thru all that should be fine-consider them going thru a raku fire with the wildfire.
  2. You could make a press mold of the components like the logs or the roof /tiles-press those and cut them and assemble. Oldladys pots above on Windy Meadows pottery's looks like this has been all done well for a long time
  3. You could press mold some sections and then join them together. As to regualr slip molds you will need a 4 piece mold per side after you remove some under cuts. I feel it would be easier to make a single or two piece press mold per side -Then join the walls together.
  4. Are you sure the label may be typo -it coukd be the Rare Jonney be GOOD model-later a little song was done about it?
  5. Wet diamond saw cuts posts like butter you can use a dry masonry saw blade on a stationary saw but it’s dusty consider cutting them down to 1/2 inch sizes as well i used to fire 600 5 inch slip cast pots in a car kiln do I ordered 5.25 inch stilts custom made and they really saved space think outside the box
  6. That is my post rack next to car kiln The compartments are made in various lengths to hold the posts When the kiln is loaded there are always a few compartments that are near empty I also use these in my other kiln which I often fire at same time They are up high at the perfect height to use.No on the floor piles for me.Made this rack in 1978. Its used every week almost thing is it holds about 1/2 the posts that I own-I have two other racks going as well.
  7. Well I had a strange experience this past month-I took the high road Story started with a pottery order adding on to some 30 odd pieces ordered over the last 20 years. Customer wanted 8 more cereal/soup bowls a with lips and a 4 small miso size bowls straight lipped. During the photo exchange she mention her dinner plates wearing out, and asked if she could add a low fire glaze to them and fire them-that freaked me out-I said NO That did not sound right to me. I know my work does not wear out. It breaks yes but wear out?? My plates have been in daily use since 1975-not worn out yet. Send photos I requested-time slides by. She is not photo savvy A few weeks and her nephew send a detail close up of worn spot in glaze. Looks very strange. I see some unusual crazing. I request her to send down the plates in question-she says she has a few-2-4 that are worn. Now I should should add that I have had customers tell me some pretty crazy stories on pottery-like it turned colors or change shape-never Have I actually seen any of this as in a returned piece. I had a person tell me that my liner glaze stains but after she actually washed with a pad the tea stains came right off I told her that I would either refire them, if indeed she has worn the glaze down, or replace them if they had a problem that needed that-but mainly let me see them. I gave her a full page of packing lessons so I got them undamaged-I said that if I refired any they could die but most definitely would change color. I said If they died I would gladly make new ones at no cost. Standing tall here in the studio. I asked about any use that could damage them that she may have done with zero results . We talked about thermos shock- hot water dish washers where fine as was 200 degrees in oven with pancakes. She said that if they change colors she would want all 8 to be changes the same. I said send them all down two states away. I’ll pay for shipping both ways. Packing was too much and they took it to UPS store. The box came, about the size of a small compact car. OK I’m exaggerating Enough bubble wrap to wrap up a small town-really each plate was inside a plastic bag then small bubble warp then large bubble wrap-on each plate. They paid 30$ to send and another 20+ to pack it. Pots showed up 3 days later and after a few hours I had cut them loose, saving all packing materials to keep it from becoming an Alice’s Restaurant deal and to reuse them on return trip north. Inspecting the plates, they were all crazed badly -they felt wet. One of them had a very small high spot with the worn thru glaze spot. The rest where just crazed. From thermos shock. I asked her how these again where thermo shocked. Not a clue until I asked if she ever thawed things in a microwave on them-well yes for 20 years been heating cold or frozen things in center-Bing Bing Bing uneven heating. I heat things like coffee in a mug in a microwave but nothing is good about thawing frozen foods even on these porcelain plates. I found the problem now what. I know that refiring plates is a bear and the loss rate is high. I put her set in our large commercial oven-slow at 200 for a night warming the next 25 hours to 500-I could tell these wares was soaked in meat juice Meanwhile started to throw replacement plates. After 1.5 days in oven then slow and cool to room temp. I knew these plates held the small % water that this body can hold if left unglazed as in the crazed glaze after 20 years. I ground the backs where they may run as refires will run more. -I heated the plates again and put a very thin glaze on top only wiping the backs clean. I loaded them in the middle of kiln and preheated slowly all night taking them up very slowly. Trimmed the new set and loaded a bisque with them in it. I made her bowls as well and biqued them. Took two day to cool the load. Well The color was fantastic-better than the original-zero crazing once again. Only had three with tiny lip cracks and all f had bloating-big ugly boils. Oh well move ahead I always say. Glazed up the next set of 8 with no spares (as this is not a stock color for me in flatware) and I want no extras-this means usually that some will fail and I held back two bisque blanks. Today that set came out-16 bowls-8 for her the rest for a gallery-the small bowls all perfect The plates where fantastic. I packed it all up today into that huge box. I gave her 60$ credit on shipping threw in a sponge holder . Along with a care note-no more microwaving and chalked this up to doing the right thing. The boxed weighed 37# .I will get a few bucks back on the new bowls but I feel like I took one for the team.My team I know she will be happy-Her plates where gone less than 3 weeks In my life its not all about money and in this story that really rings true. The big question is did I learn anything-well yes -tell my customers not to thaw foods on my flatware -Thermo shock will cause death sometimes it a slow death.
  8. Work bench will have two glaze loads on Friday-packing, much of it is wholesale /consignment-a little for me some to be prices-most not.I shipped4 shipments today from those loads just cherry picking kilns..
  9. You will find that in Europe in general the materials are different-not US made glazes or tools or equipment in general.There is a rich tradition of ceramics in Spain -it just is different than your work.I see you use molds a lot so plaster will be there-no need to take any. If your employer is paying to move you (gov,military,Private contractor etc) than by all means stock up and pack everything you need from here including your kilns and wheels,but if its on your nickle it will really cost you and you should downsize. My guess is you will have a steep learning curve. On a side note I just mailed a 3# package to Rome Italy low cost USPS and it was $61. Spain is going to be about the same costs. I would buy the items that you need specifically for your own work. Say if its all blue than take soem cobalt -thats sort of thing. You need to know your moving costs before adding heavy ceramic materials-suitcases have poundage limits
  10. Tom how tough is that crystalline surface in terms of scratching asa floor or wall surface?I have some small cyst cystaline pots but never tested them fro scratching. Mark
  11. Even then you will find its a variable glaze that can work and sometimes goes way south on you. Its definitely less bright than Baruium.But can pit just as much
  12. I glaze all my interiors 1st-let them dry I do a lot of lip dips over another glaze-I have a lot of pots to glaze and do not have the time or space to wait a day-and there is no need to. I dip the 1st dip and usually dip the next lip dip (not the whole pot) into that glaze right away . If I let the 1st one dry then it allows for to much glaze to stick and can peel or crack off. If you dip the second coat when the first is still wet it sticks well. Some of my glazes do matter when they get the second dip others do not. Meaning some will flake if the 1st is dry some will not.I know this from experience. I also use a glaze as an underglaze eother by lip diping or brushing designs then overdipping the solid glaze everywhere.Its the same deal as the double dip.
  13. (We have alleviated the problem with a light coating of kiln wash applied to the ends of the posts and usually only need to refresh that once a year.) Yes with advancers posts will fuze a bit and coating the ends is the cure-not sure about this at lower cone 6 temps-it happens at cone 10 for sure. I have 3 sizes of spacers which also need coating . I use broken 5/16 advancer shgelve pieces and mullite 1/2 shelve pieces and 3/4 inch carbide shelve pieces for adding various heights to my posts as I load the 35 shelve avearge loads. If you do not coat these nets(thats what I call them) they fuze and will leave chunks(not the advancer pieces)
  14. Use some mold lube as well on form before putting the clay into the form
  15. I usually have about 35 forms in my line-If I add one its because of a buying trend or a ton of people asking me for them-not less than 25 requests ever .If I decide that its worth trying I work thru the design process and introduce it into my line and then take a form out that is slow moving-For example In the past few decades I gave up planters,oil lamps-soup Tureens-pin cushions-all because they slowed way down. Casseroles are on the verge of being cut soon I have replaced them with forms like sponge holders-soap dishes-lotion bottles and salt cellars. A large part of my forms list was published in last years February issue in CM if you want to see the list. Sometimes I have a form that went away and comes back like a french butter bell -made them in the 80's stopped and started again in late 90's. I do not have a plan like 1 a year or any plan like that. It usually started as a request from customers and if I get enough asks then I consider it. I also need to like the idea and its needs to be a solid functional form that is not to fragile. I dislike broken pottery and the ill feelings that go with that so I make sure its solid durable form that will bring joy not sorrow to customers-This is often over looked by potters. As to working a new form it takes me a month or two to get it into the line as a solid addition and this also depends on the season. I usually do not introduce new form in my christmas rush for example . I also have few items that are sessional -they are candle holders and to some degree salt cellars now.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.