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Everything posted by BornonSunsetCeramics

  1. I was careful and brushed the clear on the sides, so if there is overlap its very minimal. I used a white underglaze because I was hoping for a very rich opaque, yet light color matte interiors to contrast the warm buff clay body. I was afraid not using an UG would muddy the color of the glazes. Any clue why the white UG would crack in a circle that way? I guess the glazes may not fit my clay body very well... which is a shame because it's a pretty buff color and throws so nicely! I'm so bummed.
  2. I fired to cone 5 with a 15 minute hold on the medium program in my Skutt. All were bisque fired to cone 04 on slow. They each have white underglaze on the interior (Amaco VU) which was applied at the green stage before the bisque. I applied the duncan glaze to the middle of each and then speedball clear just around the walls of the dishes prior to the glaze fire, since I was planning to use them as serving vessels. The clay is SBF cone 5/6 Aardvark. I placed witness cones and they read as follows: ^4: flat and broken, ^5: touching the kiln shelf, ^6: slight bend to about 1 o'lock position. Thank you so much!
  3. Hi All, I'm having a heck of a time with these Duncan true 5 matte glazes. They keep crawling! I'm guessing the glaze pooled in the edges of these low serving bowls, and that's why they crawled...? Is there any hope is saving these? Also, that crack in the dish on the left is in the white underglaze... and happened during the bisque firing. There's no crack in the dish it's self, what could have caused this to happen? Thanks so much everyone!
  4. Just a quick question about re-firing work. I wasn't happy with some details around a logo that I carved in to my pieces so I've fixed them with glaze (and also filled a few pinholes) - my question is whether or not I need to be as meticulous about dust and fingerprints on these like you do with glaze on bisque. I had to hold them firmly and work slowly to fix my glaze errors from the past firing. I'm feeling like that stuff (oil from my hands, dust) will burn off before the glaze melts again since its technically laying over top of a hardened/fired glaze and not absorbing into un-fired glaze... thoughts? Thanks so much, friends!
  5. Hey guys! I'm (still) trying to replicate the look of MG2 over Soldate 60, but at cone 5/6. I've recently tried Amaco 48 and 480 clay bodies but they're actually too speckly on surface areas left unglazed. Also, I found that I love Amaco's satin matte white over the speckled clay when it's covering the surface because the speckles show through but dang it's too expensive to buy by the pint, plus brushing on is a drag if I'm only doing white. Any tips on a good dipping matte white that isn't so opaque that you won't see the clay body beneath? And does anyone know a ^5/6 body that's close to Soldate 60? I have two little kids and beg, borrow and steal for any moment spent in my studio so it's taking me ages to find the answer, not to mention cash I don't technically have. ;) All suggestions are welcomed and appreciated! thanks so much! alli
  6. Hey gang! I'm curious if there is a way to achieve the look of MG2 over soldate 60 - that cool speckled look, at cone 6 in an electric kiln? I love the look and miss making it, and would love to recreate it at home if possible. Thanks!!
  7. Hello lovely clay folk, I'm looking to add a mini slab roller to my studio and am wondering if anyone would mind letting me know which is best, or what to look out for when purchasing? I'm short on space, so looking for a mini version. I found one on Etsy made by a potter and her engineer husband which has piqued my interest - I love supporting individuals and small businesses where I can. but above all I want the right roller since this will be the only one I have for the foreseeable future! It's soon to be my birthday so this will be a joint gift from my husband and parents and in-laws and sister. hahaha Here's the Etsy model: https://www.etsy.com/listing/449252632/slab-roller-pottery-tool-no-shim-slab?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=slab roller&ref=sr_gallery_6 Thoughts? When it comes to the major brands, is there one brand/model that stands out? I just want to get this right! I'm basically teaching myself everything through books, youtube and you guys since I'm currently a stay at home mom and have no time (or extra cash) to venture out into the world for classes. I'm so grateful for all the help. Truly. I really appreciate any and all advice or suggestions! Cheers, alli
  8. I have a Skutt KM 1027 - 3 (only 9 firings so far) and it has a latch on the side that supports the lid at 3 levels for venting. They advise you to you this and to use the lowest level to close the kiln. However, I noticed that it isn't 100% flush when I latch the lid. I can't see fire through it, and I couldn't even measure the opening it's so small, but it's not flush. I thought perhaps this was intentional for oxygen flow, but now I'm thinking I just drop the lid and say to hell with this latch when glaze firing. thoughts? My pieces that were at the top were definitely under-fired... could this space be to blame? I now know to use a set of cones on each shelf to know for sure how hot my kiln is getting at each level. I only have a thermocouple in the middle. thanks for any and all advice!
  9. Also, Min, can I just say how appreciative I am that you went to the Aardvark site and had a look? Thank you for such kind, thorough support. Sending you all the virtual hugs. **they say this clay can go to cone 6 and an employee mentioned that there wasn't THAT big of a difference between cone 5 and 6, but I'm learning that isn't always the case. I love this forum!
  10. As the true nebwie I am, I used a self supporting cone for my test fire to 04 and it was spot on, and then proceeded to never use one again. I need to go buy some 5 and 6 cones bc I know (even as the zygote I am) that my kiln is firing cooler at the top. I was going to start a new thread for this question but if you're still reading... I have a Skutt KM 1027 - 3 (only 9 firings so far) and it has a latch on the side that supports the lid at 3 levels for venting. They advise you to you this and to use the lowest level to close the kiln. However, I noticed that it isn't 100% flush when I latch the lid. I can't see fire through it, and I couldn't even measure the opening it's so small, but it's not flush. I thought perhaps this was intentional for oxygen flow, but now I'm thinking I just drop the lid and say to hell with this latch when glaze firing. thoughts?
  11. Thank you! I just reread my post and I didn't add that I bisque fire to 04. I get the feeling that they don't want to admit this clay doesn't like cone 6 because I suggested that and the idea was always shot down. I love the idea of mixing my own glazes but oh boy is that intimidating! Can you recommend a good book or DVD to begin? Thanks so much!
  12. Hi Neil! I've tried just going to 6 with this clay and it bloated as well. The last firing was a batch that I ran custom bisque firing on before the glaze fire (as opposed to just running the Skutt "slow" program that comes on the kiln. I've fired it to cone 5 with no issue, I just wasn't thrilled with my glaze. Can you recommend a soak time at cone 5? Thanks!
  13. I'm having issues with an Aardvark cone 5 clay body right now! Particularly, SBF, a clay body I love to throw but when fired to cone 6... bloat!! I even used Steve's custom bisque firing problem to try to rid the issue (iron - gases) and alas, my glaze fire to cone 6 with a 10 minute soak came out bloated. At cone 5 it fired fine, and they assured me that with little difference between 5 and 6 it would be ok, and I trust them, so I'm over here scratching my head. At 5 I wasn't in love with my glaze maturation so I'm curious how long I can soak at 5 before bloating occurs...
  14. Hello lovely ceramics people! I've been having some bloat issues with one particular clay body. It's a buff cone 5/6. It's made by the ceramics store I use here in southern cal. Here's the scoop: When fired previously up to cone 5, there was zero bloat but I wasn't too pleased with my glaze results (Amaco's potter's choice - not in attached photo) so I fired up to cone 6, and first had the bloat. I called my clay shop and spoke to their clay-kiln guy (lovely and helpful) and he gave me his custom bisque program that he said would help with specifically with inorganic burnouts (he said something about iron?) that can happen with darker clays. Again, this is a buff, not something as dark as Black Mt. but he said this was the issue. Then I fired the next batch using the nifty bisque program to cone 6 and soaked for 10 minutes. The only modification I made was to do 8 hours in the candling phase instead of 12 as written, because I know my pieces are bone dry before I load my kiln. I was very hopeful for this next batch until... bloat again! We spoke today and he still believes the iron is the issue, but I'm unsure of what to do next. Do you think this clay isn't stable at cone 6? I know there isn't technically a huge difference in temp between cone 5 and 6 but I'm tempted to take some old bisque pieces that I have stored away and test them at cone 5. That brings us back to the issue of glaze maturation and so I'd like to let the pieces soak at cone 5 -- how long do you think is adequate? Could cone 5 and a long soak be the solution? I adore throwing this clay body, and I really feel like my throwing skills have improved due in part to the nature of this clay, so I'm hoping that I can figure this out and keep using it... plus I have at least 200 lbs of it sitting on a shelf in my garage that I'd hate to not use. I've attached one of my bloated pieces and the bisque program I used during this process. Please excuse my pencil scribble on the firing program... I was trying to figure out total firing time so I could drop the lid at the appropriate time. **my matte white glaze also made by my local store appears underfired? over fired? So many issues for this newbie. If you're still reading this... thank you! I truly appreciate the wisdom of this group! cheers, alli
  15. Hey gang, I've been paying way too much at local ceramic shop for corks. There has to be somewhere online I can buy them in bulk, right? Anyone found a good seller of quality corks (in various sizes) that they wouldn't mind sharing? Thanks!
  16. Hey gang, The rubber stamps I bought from my local clay store are lame. They're too soft (rubber) and not deep enough so I keep getting the impression of the stamp handle around the letters on my pieces. I use a plastic signature stamp to finish my work that was printed using a 3d printer; it has sharp edges that works great, but it's way to expensive to buy a complete alphabet. What's the secret? There's got to be one! What do you all use if you want to write text on your work? Thanks in advance. Alli
  17. Would I be better off getting a ConeArt? Can that brand go to cone 9/10 more often than the Skutt?
  18. Thank you so much, Neil! You've been such a wonderful help. I really appreciated your thoughtful and detailed responses (this and from the last thread). 3" it is!
  19. Hi there, I'm going to be purchasing a new KM Skutt 1027 kiln for my home studio and I'm wondering about which size fire brick to purchase. Right now I have an old 1027 that needs work I'm unable to do myself and don't have the time to have done (also don't want to sink any more money into it) so I'm going to sell it on CL. I have the shelves for that size and if I go up to the 3in, I'll need all new shelves. Is the 3in worth having to to buy all new shelves? Is it really more cost effective energy-wise and does the extra insulation really make a noticeable difference for glaze cooling? I'll loose a little space on the inside, too which is a factor. I'm super new to all of this and I'll upgrade the shelves if it's really worth it since this is a kiln I plan to use for many years. All thoughts and suggestions are welcome! Thanks so much!
  20. Ok that makes sense. How long will it take to cool to the point of unloading without damaging the pots any further?
  21. Ok. Calling it quits. Can I finish firing the pieces at a later time or are they ruined now?
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