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  1. Thanks! Can I also calcine the alberta slip at that temperature without compromising its ability to do its thing?
  2. Hey y'all, I'm looking for some solid advice on the title of the post. I was considering using this recipe which I saw on ceramic arts daily: Kaolin: 15 Calcined Kaolin: 35 Talc: 5 Nepheline Syenite: 15 Silica: 15 Borax: 5 Zircopax: 10 And then a clear recipe called "Campana Clear" which is in John Britt's midrange glaze book, which I have tried a few times and seems to go well. First of all, I was curious about what temperature I should calcine the kaolin at, and if a different kaolin is recommended over EPK. I was thinking of soaking at cone 020 for 30 minutes. Secondly, I was curious about different colors, say if I were to use Alberta Slip in a 50:50 raw:calcined mix, or Newman Red, in place of the clays. Would this work? Finally, I was curious about application to bisque-ware. Is there anything I should do or be aware of, other than making it pretty thin? I'd like to apply it by dipping/pouring. I looked up some stuff on digitalfire and admittedly got a little overwhelmed when they started talking about thixotropy & $1000 wall-mounted blenders.
  3. Hey y'all, I've been running some tests on a few shino glazes. It seems like shinos are more traditionally fired to cone 10, but I've heard they're doable at 6. I've tried a score of recipes and the majority of them appear smooth & white. It's attractive unto itself, but not quite what I'm going for, so I'm wondering what I might be doing wrong -- this last firing was in pretty heavy reduction from 1550 onward to cone 6. I suspect that the thickness of application may be in question, but even then I've applied the majority of them relatively thin. Thanks for your help! Best, Kevin
  4. Any Tricks For Getting Stuck Bat Pins Out?

    Thanks y'all! I had been originally using a bat, but was having similar problems with the jumping or rattling when coning. I'll look into a fancy bat. At this point it's more about the fact that I can't get them out, and I want to be able to get them out. I will not admit defeat!! I'll try some penetrating/soaking lube and after that sets, some heat as well. I'm pretty sure Alpine no longer exists as a company -- this wheel was made several decades ago, or so it would seem. And no, there are no wingnuts under the pins. I'm not THAT much of a plebe, folks
  5. A Question About Flashing Slips

    Thanks so much for this advice! I tried out a handful of pieces with it, and it came out well enough that I'm going to continue experimenting. I just made a fresh batch of 50 test tiles, so I'll be testing a variety of different slips & saturations. And thanks everyone for your contributions!
  6. I've got this old, Alpine wheel that I got from a retired potter. It's rather "OG," as some might say. It's been great. But it came with the bat pins on. I usually prefer to throw off the hump, and I'm not a fan of scraped/battered knuckles. They're really stuck. I've hit them with some lubricant, have tried tapping them, unscrewing them, twisting them off with vice grips -- nothing. I'm really sketched out by attempting to drill them out. Any gurus here have any advice? Do I need to take the head to a machinist? Thanks!
  7. A Question About Flashing Slips

    Thanks for the response & practical wisdom, Neil! If I may pose a question -- would adding combustible material to the slip, or applying it after the slip is dried on the pot, be a terrible idea? Or another way to ask the question -- why would that not work? Would it essentially create the atmosphere that I am attempting to avoid? Just trying to find some clarity on this, as there doesn't seem to be much information out there on the matter. Along that vein, what elements are present in Shino that create the flashing, and is it possible to merge the two to perhaps have some of that effect "cross over?" I'd like to eventually not be a newbie with all this, thanks so much for your time! Best, Kevin
  8. Hey y'all, I've been lurking for awhile but haven't done much posting yet. I was curious about flashing slips. I have a converted gas kiln (which works very well and I got a lot of really good info from another thread in this forum -- thanks!) and am still relatively new at mixing glazes. (Slowly) Developing practical understanding! I really love the look of flashing slips and would love to incorporate them into my work. Though, being that this kiln was converted from electric and is made up of soft insulating brick, I'm a little concerned that atmospheric firings will flux down the bricks, so I haven't messed with it. The kiln's brick wasn't in the best shape to begin with, but I put some love into it and would rather not be wasteful. So I'm curious if y'all have any ideas about circumventing the notion of atmospheric firings to achieve a flashing effect? Might one spray ash on the surface of the slip? Mix more soda ash into the slip? Make a solution and simply brush it on top? Are any of these methods viable? I anticipate being advised to use saggars, which I'm not crazy about as the kiln just barely breaks through a "medium class" for top-loaders -- not a whole lot of space. Hopefully can circumvent the use of them, too. Holding my breath over here for a guru's advice! Thanks! Kevin
  9. You might have to make it in multiple pieces. If you're making a "spoon" style pipe, it's probably easiest to do it off the hump. Try this: Get a small piece of clay, isolated at the top of the hump. Open middle, as usual. Pull the walls up, and then bring them together to make a hollow egg. Once you have the egg, push down in the middle to depress the top slightly into the rest of the form. You may need to use a torch or heat gun to keep the right parts of the clay stable, like the rim along the depression, or leave the clay fairly thick at the top. Done this way, you essentially have the shape of the "bowl." Once it dries, you can poke a hole through the top "bowl," on the side for the air in-take, and another for the mouthpiece which you might also want to throw separate. I make something a little similar to this, and have pretty good luck doing it this way. Best of luck~!
  10. Hey there, long-time lurker here that just made an account. I've got experience building a few websites (not pottery related) and I've tried a few different things (different wordpress themes & platforms) and if you're getting into it for the first time, here are a couple things I would share with you. Wordpress is great in that it is very flexible and there are thousands of themes you can choose from (check out www.themeforest.net). Wordpress itself is free & open source if you have it hosted using GoDaddy or Bluehost or some other hosting provider, though you likely will have to purchase a theme to get a look you want. That's all well and fine, but the most challenging thing about wordpress is learning some of the coding basics to get around, and it can be difficult to change things around unless you really know what you're doing. I've actually been porting my existing website and redesigning using SquareSpace. In relativity to Wordpress, there is a somewhat "limited" selection of layouts, but they are far easier to customize. The builder itself is drag-and-drop, "What you see is what you get," style builder. The site comes out looking clean and automatically adjusts to whatever device it's being viewed on (PC, tablet, phone). They have a business package that doesn't seem too expensive for what they offer: inventory & invoicing, professional email, so on and so forth, which can be really awesome depending on your needs & desires. The whole thing is VERY easy to use, and if you have any trouble their website is packed full of how-to videos -- they even run a free weekly webinar on Wednesdays to help people get the ground running. I would say if you've never designed a site before, look into SquareSpace. Their software is great, the system is really tight and the platform is very worry-free. Price-wise, I would say it's pretty comparable to any other web-hosting service. Wordpress can get insanely expensive pretty quickly, depending on your aesthetic. Many attractive site features & options come in the form of plug-ins, which are like tiny bits of code that you upload to your website -- things like image carousels, fancy contact forms, and so on -- many of these require a purchase or even a subscription to maintain! SquareSpace gives you pretty much all of that in the package. The basic is like $8, and I think the business is like $12 or $16 when you pay up front for the year. Best of luck!