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AscotLady

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About AscotLady

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    http://Janesterman.com
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    #janesterman

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    London UK
  • Interests
    Oil painter, potter,wife,mother,grandmother,carer and always learning

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  1. So, it appears tgat SG is the same as ‘Pint weight’, it doesnt matter what you weigh it on as long as its accurate and using the same scale for the two weights. The containter doesnt matter either just use the same mark to check the weight. In the UK 1000ml is 1Kg and is a good weight for measuring slip, if you use too small amount it is less accurate. You ‘tare’ the container on the scale first, then add the slip, so no complicated calculations. The same applies for SG for glaze ( you need to know the right SG for the glaze you are using), if you have made it yourself you can test it when new and check each time you use it to adjust. Likewise with slipcasting, test the SG each time. I will need to judge the viscosity by the ‘double or single cream’ feel, and adjust with tiny amounts of dispex up the maximum for the clay I am using. So in UK. Clay should SG at 35-35.5 pint weight In USE Clay with 100ml 1.75-1.78 Glaze 1.4-.1.6. Rec’d for USA, but this is dependent on make. I need to check my glazes spec and see if it is available for glazes here, or just check the ‘new pot’ or my first batch made. Thank you for all this great information on this site, I love it.
  2. Thank you for your quick response. I will check this out before casting again and let you know the result.
  3. Thank you Magnet, 1.75 - 1.78 that must be USA measurement- I know this is an old thread..... but.... Ive just started slipcasting, what fun. Beginners luck and all the vases I cast were perfect, bought tubs of porcelain slip. Then tried stoneware, also purchased, too heavy, too everything, vase OKish. Now tried to go back to basics and make it all myself. Instead of persisting with own dried clay, I purchased powdered slip casting stoneware, found recipe on the net, in all my (many)reference books, came up with what sounded right, diluted the weighed gram soda ash, checked the pint weight, weighed (ahah!) the sodium silicate. Left for 24 hours after passing it over a magnet (?why), added half the amount of dispex just because it sounded too much. Voila, nice pouring slip, set up in twelve minutes, poured out smoothly, oh-some odd pinholes inside the vase ( havent turned it out yet ). So I look up pinholes and come to this thread. Now more reading and a lightbulb moment, USA oz, and the number of oz in a pint are very different to UK measurements, still called pints and oz. I also weighed the sodium silicate, but used a ml syringe for the dispex (Darven in USA). I used the UK oz from a USA recipe, does that matter anyway....... The problem now is the pint weight for the clay noted in the brochure is 35-35.5 oz - of course this is UK oz. My clay weighed just over the 35.5 I thought I had performed a miracle, 1Kg = 1 pint in UK =35.5 oz. How does this translate into USA measurements for Pint weight- I think I may have mixed up the countries/recipes. As you can tell maths has never been my strongest suit. So now my clay feels a little heavy, do I top up with Dispex or add a little water? Also pint weight now a little low at 33.1 oz (UK), do I add water or Dispex? No wonder I have been having trouble baking cakes, using USA online directions, ‘old money’ mixed with metric +- difference in USA and UK pints and oz. Bit like the Spacestation mix ups with measurements maybe?
  4. Thank you - here is the finished Baby Hippo. (Sorry cannot get the photo to reduce jpeg on my ipad ) Clear matt glaze shiny parts, but as its a sculpture it just adds to the interest. Worked just fine. Phew
  5. AscotLady

    Peep holes

    From one ‘old lady’ to another - thank you for being so clear. We have just bought a new to us (secondhand) kiln Cone Art, very exciting as my original kiln was bought already 30 years old and now Im sculpting I need something a bit larger. Peep holes didnt exist on my old kiln, I left the top bung out til 800C or until the ‘mirror on a stick’ (DIY tool for finding the things you drop under what you are working on) did not mist. No need for gloves or danger to burn yourself, the stainless steel sick is quite long to keep hands clear. I know this is an old thread, but this site always answers my questions. One of these days Ill remember to look here first. I found it necessary to keep the lid closed until 200C, or just warm to the touch. Granice (grandma Janice)
  6. Was this successful? I have underfired a sculptural piece with matt glaze over underglazing bisqued. Just come out looks like raw white glaze. I would like to refire at the higher correct temperature, I had fired to 1080 C and the glaze should be 1200-1280 C. Appreciate any comments
  7. Sorry just seen I have no name or photo! Thank you Ajay, you do have a name after all.
  8. Sorry for delay in replying, and thank you for the input. Stantons have been intouch, they have been able to give a complete history of the kiln, it is 35 years old. Still working well, they are true workhorses and they say much tougher than the modern kilns. It is possible to put a new controller on, however the old ones did start reading from cool at 200+ C, it is not a problem once the temperature goes up from there as it records properly, we will check this with cones shortly. The chap did give us advice and agreed that the addition of a shelf on the bottom on the kiln simply fixed the problem of the damaged floor bricks (with glass) without comprimising the kiln or taking it apart. Thanks Advanced Member with nice pot but no name in Hampshire - we cannot find a model number or any info on the controller, we intend to continue with it whilst is appears to work just fine (but needs manual input and no programmes), and will update it eventually. Meanwhile we have build a Raku kiln in the garden - looking forward to 'playing with fire'.
  9. Thank you for trying to help. There is one obsolete controller on the Stanton site, not our one. However, the test glazing was just fine, all good, and the following days a test Bisque (porcelain), also was good. Apart from a starting temperature showing at 200 C. whilst the kiln is quite cool, all seemed good. We will probably change the thermostat and controller at a later stage when I am more proficient. We are not sure why it shows 200 C and thought we might be going too high at the end, but seems not. Will try and post some pictures when I can get to my computer, doesnt like the ipad for reducing the picture size.
  10. Sorry having a problem reducing file on ipad. Will try and do tomorrow via computer. (Now realise white box is a safety trip in case of overheating)
  11. Thank you for the welcome and for the PDF. We have been in contact with Stantons as we thought we had an electrical fault, however they could not help us, nor supply a manual for our old model. We had seen the PDF which helped for safe installation. The new models are very similar in construction but all the young staff were unable to help with the old model, common story these days. They cannot tell us if the controller is an original part. We managed to check all the wiring and by upgrading a fuse to Cgrade MCB plus a new relay switch from ebay got it going. Hopefully someone out there knows how it is supposed to work, rather than what we are doing, that is guessing. We may invest in a new/old updated controller. I hope I can report tomorrow that we did something right and dont have just a mess in the bottom of the kiln!
  12. I am a newbie potter and I have purchased a 20 year old, smallest Stanton T25 electric Kiln. It is working, it has a digital controller in a black box, probably not the original, and a large white box underneath that ? No idea what that is but all the wiring goes through it. We are trying to use it today with a test firing. The controller has simple settings; a temperature readout, a set switch to set the temp you want it to reach, a soak switch which holds the temp, and a switch which sets the rate the temperature climbs ie the power. It does not appear to have a time switch, so it is a sort of manual kiln, no spy holes, and a bung in the lid presumably to let any steam escape at low temperature. Top loader, with a lock mechanism which will not allow the lid to be opened when switched on. We have no idea how to control the cooling speed and have just adjusted the temperature setting every hour today. No idea what we will find when we open it tomorrow! We have been unable to obtain an instruction book or find one online. If someone has this kiln and can give me simple instructions that would be great, or a copy of an old instruction book. Thank you for all the great questions and answers, this site has been invaluable for me.
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