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Posts posted by yappystudent

  1. For some reason my day/night cycle has flipped completely and whereas I spent most of my life being up in the day like normal people, now I'm up at night. I'm guessing this is mainly psychological, I enjoy having the whole world (never mind the other hemispheres) to myself while everyone is sleeping.  I don't have a schedule, I just work on some clay at some time, usually starting around midnight and off and on until around 4 AM, in addition to other tasks and types of artwork. Right now I have a goal of working on one small clay project a night, because I'm stalled out on bigger ones and about to start the glaze mixing project. I've found trying to schedule making art is like trying to organize freedom or herd cats, it kills the muse. I miss out on some gardening, my neighbors think I'm a witch because I water my plants at night. I go to bed around 5AM and get up around noon-3 pm thereabouts, which gives me just enough time to do appointments and get out of the house into town, which I also enjoy.  I'm really disappointed I don't get to the beach and woods as much as I had planned, I used to do that in the early morning and I just can't seem to keep my eyes open anymore at those times of day. 

  2. I've fiddled around with the same techniques mentioned and have yet to have anything separate or crack based on clay body differences. Following good practices about being sure your stuff dries slowly and evenly might be why as I'm usually pretty careful about that. 

    Don't forget you can just slip-paint over your main clay body and it will look exactly the same as if you've added a solid piece. Not sure what you're doing without images or if this would work for you. I've slip painted ^6 porcelain over ^6 stoneware a few times now and so far no issues. Why slip works better than just adding a piece of contrasting color clay I don't know, I don't even know if it really does. But I do know a block of the nicest porcelain my shop sells is about $9 more than the cheapest stoneware, so slip coating suits me. 

  3. Update: 

    I went to Georgie's and picked up a several bags of dry ingredients based on member's advice and georgie's, and my desire to start with some kind of green-greeny-blue 'sea mist' type satin glazes. I bought the smallest bag of w/e they had that was required by two recipes I found online as well. It was a bit of an outlay of cash needless to say but I'm looking forward to putting them to use. 

  4. On 8/2/2018 at 5:57 AM, GEP said:

    If you are firing to cone 6, here’s a reliable base recipe for making glossy glazes.

    Glossy Base

    23 EPK

    29 Silica

    46 Gerstley Borate

    2 Soda Ash


    I will try this. -TY. 


    On 8/2/2018 at 8:27 AM, oldlady said:

    cannot figure out why it removes a word if i want to insert one. 

    Try tapping the Insert key it usually stops/starts inserting that way. 

    On 8/2/2018 at 7:26 AM, dhPotter said:

    Must have a very accurate method of weighing ingredients.

    I have a digital postal scale from USPS that cost around $50, used it when I sold on ebay a few years back. 

    On 8/2/2018 at 8:17 AM, oldlady said:

    this subject has been covered several times, try search , well, that hardly ever works for anything even if you know the title of the post you want.

    agreed, it has. The problem for me, and somehow I suspect not just me, is being blinded by science and not knowing where to start. 

    On 8/2/2018 at 10:35 AM, Min said:

    How helpful have the staff been at Georgies?

    Very helpful, except that telling them "I've never made a glaze before and don't know where to start" is probably pretty withering for them and makes them lose their will to live, judging from the look in their eyes. I have no complaints with Georgie's they are great: well-stocked, helpful and affordable (unlike another shop I had to deal with, namely the only one in the state of Idaho...pretty sure they gave being unhelpful their best effort just for fun.)

    On 8/2/2018 at 11:15 AM, lgusten said:

    This is so timely,  I am making my shopping list for my raw materials part of the studio.  Monday is the day I am planning a day trip to Highwater Clay in Asheville, NC to  make my purchase.  They have a technician there who should be able to talk to me more in depth about the materials.  

    Just ordered John Britt's Complete Guide to mid range Glazes.  I will go through those recipes and narrow down my list of materials.  I will share it when I am done. Looked at the Cone 5-6 Glazes book of the Ceramic Arts Handbook series...it is just OK.... 

    Like Min says, apart from the materials and a couple of other things....other stores have them at cheaper prices.  Don't underestimate what you may find at thrift stores like Goodwill and Habitat Restore.  Found lots of items for molding, impressions, foam  for not a lot of money.  Our Habitat also has a senior discount day for all those over 60.  I have found the most stuff at Habitat.

    I use different oxides and water to add color to my work...it is not a glaze but I have used it instead as a final finish to get a desired look  or  under a glaze to tweak the color in the glaze.   I have added some pics.  The one with iron oxide was fired at cone 6 with just the iron oxide rubbed on  then finished with a wax to get that sheen.  

    Yes we are in the same boat. Please do share those recipes, along with the ones others have shared it's much appreciated. Interesting pics, I'm actually wanting to produce a green like the one shown, a basic 'sea green/sea mist' etc. What did you do to get that if you don't mind sharing?.

    Whenever buying stuff I hit the thrift stores first, Restore (what they call the Habitat stores here) and dollar stores first. Nearly all my impression-making stuff comes from those, and quite a few odd tools. I have also shelled out for the occasional high end tool (my brand new glaze screen, aforementioned scale, etc. I spent some time last night making my own impression-making rollers, and I use the back of flooring tiles for industrial impressions. Fun stuff there. 

    On 8/2/2018 at 4:36 AM, Babs said:

    What cone are you firing to?

    Gloss, satin matte matter finish?

    Glaze with only red iron and water....Don't think that would make a glaze Yappy student!!

    Cone 5-6

    Mainly going for a satin-semi-satin/matte ideally. 

    Ha! pls see the picture below, this is only red iron oxide and water, fired once at .06? and again at around ^7,  oxidation. It's over a red clay body. 


    Red iron oxide w water glaze moss pot1.png

  5. My sponges are falling apart so it's time for the next trek to Georgie's, and assembling a shopping list.  I'm going to try mixing some simple (-?) first glazes and as yet know nothing about it. I've had a look at digitalfire and glazy and couldn't figure out wtf they are talking about, same with my ancient Bernard Leach books. (White lead?......) Yes I could use a few new books, maybe I'll buy one at the store when I get there. So far the only glaze I've made was red iron oxide and water, which my kiln won't mature adequately or I didn't do it right. 

    Question: I'd like some simple recommendations with the thought in mind,  if you were recommending mixing first glazes to a 12 year old and wanted them to pick up say, 4-5 commercial dry ingredients for this purpose, what would you get? No uranium or plutonium pls. I have some small packets of mason stain, red and black iron oxides, all colors of clay, a little ash, that's about it. 

  6. Update: So I've been pretty upset the past two weeks waiting to hear back about a test for a mutation in my blood cells that renders the known forms of drug treatment useless. They did the wrong test twice...anyway apparently third time is the charm and the test came back negative, I'm just responding slower than most, which is very very good news. Thanks for all the nice comments and getting to hear folk's sharing. I wish everyone else a bit of good news in their struggles also. 

  7. I have this problem also using the small bisque molds I've made when the clay is too dry. The bisque sucks the water out of the surface of the clay so quickly that by the time I've finished pressing the lump totally in there it's made cracks in the surface. I've tried different work arounds, this mainly happens with press molds that are fairly deep and detailed, like faces with noses that stick out. There might be better solutions but using wetter clay and spraying the mold with water seem to help. 

  8. On 7/25/2018 at 8:29 PM, LeeU said:

     I am amazed at the array of difficulties others have shared. Amazed at people being so forthcoming (and glad there was a place to put it on the Forum--thx Pres). There is so much distress that periodically accompanies my own physical and/or mental challenges, that I must take strength from the resiliency of others, and try to take caution from the actions of some who lost their battle, such as Anthony Bourdain--that one hit me hard. I don't know if it is factual that--as some suggest--creative people have more than their share of deep suffering and bedevilments, but it does seem to me that artistic beings bring an especially tenacious spirit to the game, and seem to express a heightened tenacity to overcome, and to do so with grace. 

    I'm an Anthony Bourdain fan too, he shared my zodiac sign (cancer, no coincidence with my affliction) and though I'm a lot more type B personality I'm pretty sure politically and artistically we had the same zeitgeist going on in our heads. 


  9. As I mentioned before somewhere I have leukemia. When I was diagnosed I promised myself a few things. One, I would do what I wanted the way I wanted as much as possible from then on with the time I have left. Working with clay to some extent gives me a focus and relieves my depression to a large extent, helps me to handle my fear, and though I don't really believe in 'legacies' it's sort of nice to know that a few things I made will be around a long time after I'm gone. Right now I actually feel physically pretty good and thought I was doing well in remission. A visit about a week ago with my oncologist cleared my hopes up when he said it's time for me to get in line for a bone marrow transplant. Hm, yes, well.

    Anyway, on the bright side I got to quit my job (after not being able to finish a shift at work due to having pain from a swollen spleen, a health care provider with no health care, thanks to the heartless health care system in the US) three years ago when I finally walked into an ER and got diagnosed. I'd been managing and working through horrible symptoms undiagnosed for at least two years not knowing what I had. The ER doc suddenly got excited saying my white cell counts were off the scale and I was rushed over to another hospital in the middle of the night, put into all sorts of contraptions, IV's inserted, etc. The oncologist assured me I didn't have long if it was one type, about 25 yrs if another. My only thought was "Christ I can finally quit my job!" -that's how much I hated it. After recovering and getting social security and medicaid worked out, I sold my wee house in Idaho, (also hated Idaho, I'm from CA originally, seriously a fish out of water) and used the money to move to a place I love on the Oregon coast. Anyway I'm cramming as much of what I want, that I can afford on next to nothing, into what's left. Not everyone gets the news they better get their affairs in order and have such and such time left to do it. Most of the time, I'm grateful, not always. 

  10. On 7/24/2018 at 1:42 PM, Callie Beller Diesel said:

    This is actually a really broad topic. Which parts do you feel need a better update?

    I'm not in the market for my own website currently, but it seems like some specifics on current web hosting sites for those that are might be useful. at the least. Is the rest of the information still current 7 years after the first posting? Yes it does contain a lot of info. 

  11. After a recent nightmarish experience with the messiness of black iron oxide I would recommend the black underglaze option. I am a newb and probably didn't mix it right, but I'm still cleaning it off things in my studio, my clothes,  other places, after doing a pie plate with an outlined pattern of black oxide.  I've used it fine for signing my work and little details, so was surprised when things went awry on a larger scale. Maybe look up a recipe for adding something that will give it more control. For my part I'm going the black underglaze route from now on. 

  12. I've noticed very dark clays tend to be fussy in general during firing, bloating and not playing nice with many glazes. Oregon Brown is a clay I like to use because it seems more stable than the others, I'm not sure it's available away from the west coast US. Ironically georgie's in Eugene doesn't carry it, maybe their Portland store does?  they have their own version which I haven't tested yet. I bought my last block of OB in CA, (humboldt county, store called phoenix). OB turns cocoa brown in bisque and dark brown with quite a lot of grog at ^6. If you fire it again at ^5 it's essentially blackish w/ brown overtones. I found it a decent dark sculpture clay. Never really finished my experiments with it but it's good stuff, stable for a dark clay and kinder to glazes than say Cassius. 

  13. About 4 plastic buckets that I rotate through the kitchen sink since I don't have a dedicated sink. They sit around for a day or so until I can pour the water off. Kitchen and "bar mop" towels from the dollar store. Big sponge for the table and a fan to dry the surface in between spongings, otherwise it would remain wet for too long. I tend to change clay colors a lot.

  14. In a ceramics class not so long ago there was another student who argued she didn't understand why making things out of air-dry clay wasn't just as good as fired pottery, aside from the food safe quality and strength of course. I tried different analogies like printing a photo off a printer vs oil painting, ebooks vs holding a real book. It was all the same to her, or maybe she was just trying to wrap her head around why it shouldn't be. I don't know if it's possible to make that point with a mature adult who hasn't grasped it yet, they either see it one way or the other. 

  15. 22 hours ago, Callie Beller Diesel said:

    Then I think you’d be best off to make them buy them outright, and charge them your regular retail price. One-offs at that price point are not a consignment or a wholesale arrangement.  

    If this is common practice in your area, I’m not surprised those shops are going out of business. It’s not a model that works long term for anyone, and it’s unprofessional. 

    I am a firm believer that even if making is a part time gig  or a hobby for someone, behaving professionally (pricing appropriately, having some basic policies regarding returns and order placing) protects you from being taken advantage of. Most professional behaviour involves deciding ahead of time how you want to deal with certain situations, and communicating clearly with the people you work with and sell to.  It’s about clarifying how you want to be treated, sometimes even if it’s just to yourself, and setting healthy boundaries. 

    Agreed Callie I'd definitely like to work out where I stand ahead of time. 

    As far as the shops go, they seem to have figured out they sell one thing and sell it pretty good. The challenge is convincing them my stuff is worth bothering with as a secondary product. Also, there is a lot of down and out here. I'm going to be the devil's advocate and say they probably have a lot of street folks walking in trying to sell them junk out of their pockets.  



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