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yappystudent

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Everything posted by yappystudent

  1. Probably a dumb question and might not be good enough solution for fancy commissioned dinnerware, but would paperclay made from the clay they used serve the same purpose?
  2. Without much experience or knowledge, and a call to Georgie's (skutt is closed on wknds! arrgh) I've narrowed it down to what I think I should get, with two other small kilns that require 240 voltage as runner ups. Until I call Skutt and ask for further advice I won't be giving anyone any money. At this point cone 6 would be like manna from heaven compared to the low fires done by the shop I go to. Just to complicate matters I picked up a truly ancient Paragon for $200 bucks which seems restorable and almost certainly fires off 240 voltage and who knows what else, and if I can get it running someday, not now, supposedly will fire to cone 10. However I'm not going to invest that kind of cash at this point for various personal reasons. Anyway here's what I'm looking at ctl+pasted off the Georgie's site. As I mentioned it's pretty much down to Skutt because otherwise I'll have to go hundreds of miles further to get parts service for any other brand, and I like Skutt's customer service and reputation: Any experience with 120 volt kilns? Do they really work or have problems? Thanks. KM614-3 Handy for artists with limited space, and also a true precision device for jewelers, metal workers and dollmakers. The only kiln in the KM series that runs on common household 120-volt power (with a 30 amp breaker and outlet required). Reaches cone 6. Chamber size 11" x 13-1/2". Capacity 0.8 cubic feet. Uses 120-volt power with a 30 amp breaker. Georgies price does not include freight or delivery charges to your location. Shipping weight is 88 pounds. KM614-3 Skutt KM614-3 KilnMaster Electronic Ceramic Kiln Skutt KilnMaster KM-614-3 KM-614-3 Skutt KM614 electronic ceramic kiln fires to cone 6 with 0.8 cubic feet capacity. Chamber dimensions 11" wide by 13-1/2" deep. Skutt KM614-3 KilnMaster Electronic Ceramic Kiln
  3. Glasslike Crystals in Wet Glaze - What the...?

    They make a beautiful photo.
  4. Snowed last night, melted this morning. Frozen roads tonight. Cold/damp. Brr. 

  5. Shopping for My First Kiln

    Just an update: Ordered the kiln mentioned above, have an electrician coming out this week, told them which plug for the kiln. However, I have not discussed a quote with them yet, I have the feeling they would prefer to bypass that question, show up, install the outlet and stick me with w/e bill. Will be calling them back tomorrow and asking them about that since I should have in the first place. I was just a little too happy about getting hold of someone who wanted to do it, maybe. Decided yes it has to go into the metal shed for the following reasons: this allows me to not buy the optional $500 venting system, the shed has double doors and it's usually pretty windy here. No worries about the air temps overheating in there and causing it to shut down: summer temps rarely reach even 75f here, plus shade from hillside/trees, so with the double doors open it should be cool and vented adequately. A venting system would have been nice, but Skutt says it can be retrofitted, so if I find I can't work without it, I can drive the thing back to the shop to have it put on eventually. Taking the advice about cement board x2, I'd also like to put a layer of bricks or concrete pavers under the kiln, even for just ornamental reasons if no other. Also the shed is unbearably ugly on the inside and I'd like to dress it up, also not be standing on cement board when I load/unload. Welp, just waiting to chat w/ electricians tomorrow again, and 4-6 wks left before the kiln is built. Almost ready to let myself get excited about it, hard to do when vital things are still unfinished. Thanks again for all the advice and support.
  6. Raku Rocket - Kiln #3 by Ian Gregory

    Just to throw more info at this thread, last I heard this kind of smaller gauge wire mesh they sell at hardware stores is often called "hardware cloth". Dumb thing to call it, since it's metal. At least that's what I always used to hear it called. Might find more search results using that term than mesh, but who knows?
  7. Shopping for My First Kiln

    Yes, I was told that by Georgie's after I called them back, but it didn't seem worth updating the thread for. I've got an electrician coming next week, with luck it will go better than the first one. Still trying to decide exactly where to place the kiln now.
  8. Shopping for My First Kiln

    So I had a good look at my dryer outlet and it said 120/240 volts, the circuit breaker said 250v so I'll take that as a good sign. Ordered a kiln from Skutt. I'm thinking about calling them back to ask what the plug is going to look like to make sure it fits.
  9. Ordered my first kiln, the KM818 from Skutt. 240v configuration. 4-6wks. Yay! (I hope). Thanks to all for their input on my choice. 

    1. Min

      Min

      Congrats! Good choice! 

  10. Shopping for My First Kiln

    The hard part is finding an electrician who's not a slime bag.
  11. Artspeak

    I've never been able to come up with a satisfying artist's statement for my own work. If I could put into words what I was trying to do, I could probably have been a writer instead. Perhaps it's not being able to describe my artworks fully that causes them to end up as objects in ceramic, paint, etc,; when in theory those ideas could much more easily have been expressed by simply typing out a description on a computer screen.
  12. "art" of making mud balls

    Not to be grumpy but seriously was translation into English necessary for full comprehension of how to make a ball out of mud...
  13. You think I'm joking just to fill space, well watch this video (in French, most of the ones in English were a little annoying, and you'll still get the idea). Just goes to show the Japanese can literally make an art form out of anything. I have to admit they do look kinda neat, but I think I'd get partway into the first one then come to my senses. Rushing to the nearest puddle as I write this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iuej85qy5w
  14. Shopping for My First Kiln

    Also: I've given up the idea of getting an 120 volt, mainly because I want a bigger kiln than can fire on 120 volts, but I'm still unclear why it would be a bad idea for a test or glass slumping kiln. I'm currently looking at Skutt's KM818 as what I'll actually buy as my first kiln (I'm not counting the paragon). I don't need a huge kiln because: I can't move a huge kiln around easily. I'd rather have a smaller kiln than nothing at all. Smaller kilns are cheaper to buy. I'd love to fire stoneware but I'll settle for cone 6-8 if it's done reliably. Power costs a lot here. My work is fairly small right now, however I'd like to go up in size eventually yes. Unless I can afford a bigger kiln someday that might not be possible. If it's 145lbs I can go get it and bring it back home in my car without paying for shipping. Any reason why I shouldn't buy this? The listing off Georgie's website: KM818 One of Skutt's overall most popular models, it's the perfect small kiln with cone 10 range for home or small studio use. Reaches cone 10. Chamber size 17-1/2" x 18". Capacity 2.6 cubic feet. Available in 240-volt or 208-volt configurations. Georgies price does not include freight or delivery charges to your location. Shipping weight is 145 pounds.
  15. Shopping for My First Kiln

    Ummmmm. *eyetwitch* In answer to Oldlady's question and possibly some other's: Info overload much. I just want a kiln not to become an electrician, however I've been trying to fit in as much general electrical self-education as I can so I can make an at least partially educated choice. I still can't quite get over my frustration with Paragon's lack of customer service on the phone or by email (it was returned as failmail) -per my original plan this "truly ancient" AA 6 little kiln will continue to sit until I can figure out what to do with it. I had a local electrician come by, looked around my 1971 mobile home, and tell me it would be $90 for a comprehensive diagnostic of everything that was wrong with it and that was my only option, also BTW their company only works on "big" projects, they recommended I hire any "guy" who might have a business card posted down at the Thai restaurant, which surprisingly is quite a place to network, apparently. This may be the next route I take. Cracked two home repair books to read about outlets and circuitry and whatnot. Nothing much about 240 vs 208 voltage, dedicated circuits, or anything that relates to my questions. However I see I can do some home repairs myself. I once changed out a three prong dryer plug for a 2 prong dryer plug (or vice versa) but I don't recall having to learn anything about voltage to do it. Yes I have a dryer, with a plug. It's off by itself in it's own shed so I'm dimly guessing this might be a dedicated circuit. I wish the shed (metal, old) was in better repair, I'd rather not put a new kiln in there in this damp climate, but maybe with some serious caulking it would be doable. There are other places that if supplied with the right plug might be better. As stated I still want a Skutt because: Georgie's is only 200m away and Skutt has excellent customer service. I will have to call them as before with the exact same question as last week which they couldn't answer: what is the difference between 240 voltage and 208 kilns and why is it going to be a problem for me? If you think I'm alone in not "getting" this, I typed this question into google and copied this off a repair forum that came up in my search: What is the difference between 208 and 240? The difference between 208V three phase, and 240V single phase, is how the voltage is derived. 240V single phase is obtained by taking a single leg of three-phase power. 208V three phase is obtained by taking two legs of three-phase power. In a 120/240 single phase system, the midpoint of the secondary side of the tranformer is tapped and grounded to create a neutral. From the midpoint to any line reads 120V, and from line-to-line (the full voltage) reads 240V. Imagine planting a black flag in the sand, walking 120 steps in a straight line, planting a white flag, and then walking another 120 steps in the same line to plant a red flag at the end. In a 120/208 three phase system, the neutral is at the center of three phases from the utility. In this case, using the walking in the sand analogy: A white flag is planted in the center. You walk 120 steps away from the white flag, and plant a black flag. You return to the white flag, turn 120 degrees, and walk another 120 steps, planting a red flag. You return to the white flag, turn 120 degrees, and walk 120 steps to plant a blue flag. Once this is done, you face the red flag from the blue flag, and count your steps as you approach it. There are 208 steps between flags. If that doesn't make sense, you're not alone in the universe I don't need to understand this **** to run my dryer why do I need it to buy a kiln and be an artist? This sounds like the barking of a really annoying dog at this point.
  16. So, I got tired of hearing from a certain group of people I know in real life about how silly I am to think that a bubble left inside of clay won't explode during firing. Literally eye-rolling when I tried to tell them YOU GUYS said on my ceramic arts daily forums that that is a myth. I tried to explain this is trapped moisture and not trapped air. I took a further risk as both they, and I, have taken the inevitable college pottery classes where about 10% of the work blows up, and the teacher blames it on the students not having learned how to wedge properly, when really, -I'm guessing anyway, it's work rushed into the kiln so students can have it fired before next week's class. So I made a little marble with a huge air pocket inside it, let it dry out about 3 weeks just to be safe, pretty damp here on the coast, and put it in with a load of my work. So I wouldn't forget which one it was I marked it with a little bomb-shaped impression . After bisque firing I took the doubters outside, had them examine the marble for holes, cracks, etc (they confirmed there were none) then opened it up with a hammer, showing them that it was in fact, completely hollow. Sometimes I really would rather be right than be happy! -actually I'm pretty happy about it, go figure. Every ceramics teacher should do this instead of giving misinformation about moisture, I literally did not know that this was wrong until I joined the forums.
  17. Coils tend to crack, also clay can seem wet enough starting out but still may not have absorbed enough water. But really it just sounds like you've got a bit of a hateful clay like Min said with too much talc. I'd get different clay when you use up that batch. There are ways to re-wet the whole block easily as well, you can always dry a batch to work with out after re-wetting it. I have dry hands too, it's a lot easier to fix the clay than worry about my hands.
  18. Shopping for My First Kiln

    Thanks for all the input folks.
  19. Shopping for My First Kiln

    So the email button on the Paragon website for the Portland (300m + away and the nearest) is broken. So I called the TX main number and they didn't know why their website wasn't working, also they couldn't tell me anything about the repair guy/shop/ gosh knows what up there, or the one in Bend, OR. :/ Seriously? She gave me an email over the phone and I sent them all the photos. I don't even know where I emailed. Not encouraging from a business model standpoint.
  20. Many of you probably know about the wetcanvas.com site, but in case you don't I linked the main forums page below. Apologies if this has been linked before. Wetcanvas has been around a long time and I still go there when I have a legal concern or want to talk about non-ceramic art. Unfortunately their clay page means mostly polymer clay, and CAR does a lot better job of networking ceramic artists anyway, but, there is a ton of info like marketing and the daily angst of working that is discussed there often and in detail: http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/index.php
  21. Selling Large Work vs Small Work

    This will perhaps sound preachy but (also I'm late to the convo, sorry) as an artist occasionally you need to follow that inner calling or bad things can happen, like dry spells that stop you working on anything effectively. I don't have much experience selling my ceramics yet but I have some selling 2D paintings and drawings alongside other artist's ceramic work. Most of this occurred during the boom economic cycle of the 90's in the Eureka CA area, so a small city with a lot of small towns up and down a touristy coastal highway, just for reference. Some tips which you can take or leave based on my experiences: If you wish to do truly primitive work I'd aim for the big cities. That kind of edginess won't be appreciated as high art elsewhere, it will be misinterpreted as lack of skill. Minimalist or 'vaguely Japanese' does sometimes sell though in a big town/small city type environment, because the average person can tell it's art, and it's decorative. Gallery employees and managers are there to make money, period. Try and look professional and if you are worried about selling yourself or being nervous, take someone you can trust to back you up. There is much more advice about this online than I can relate, that is, sales from an artist's perspective. Scout out the gallery first physically. Tell whoever is working there you're an artist and ask if you can make an appointment to have someone look at your work. Surprise them by having nice clear cropped photos of it in a little tidy black/brown photo album (don't walk in carrying a pot or a portfolio). I never call, just show up and politely ask, if they want a phone call they will tell you. Usually they want to see pictures my stuff then and there to make sure I'm not a flake. If they ask for pictures and I don't have any, or they're not well displayed, it makes me look unprofessional. IF you're going to hit up real art galleries that just have and sell art, say in a city, you'll want to have a show (that's about 12-20 the last I was told) of work you think is typical available and ready to go. Even if they don't pressure you to have that much up front, you will be sweating bullets as the countdown starts if you do get a space and you have to make work to fill it. Having work standing by will give you a ton of confidence. There is no reason not to make a few large 'art' pieces that express something you're really feeling at the time, and use them to punctuate a show of smaller work. Be this on your website or in a brick and mortar gallery setting. It shows everyone including yourself that you are a "real" maker and serious about what you do. It appeals to people who have the money to take notice. On that note, define what you're going to say about yourself when trying to get your stuff shown, are you a ceramic artist, potter, or both? Just don't give wishy-washy answers or feel wishy-washy about it in your head. Try to find your bread and butter 'small' stuff that you want to do as well, but don't beat yourself up about it. Getting some larger more edgy, artsy pieces out into the marketplace might be what you need to find direction, to clear your vision so to speak. There is nothing logical about creating art in my opinion, if you have it in you, it needs to come out as you see it, not as others would have you do it. There is a lot to know but in the end just do what you need to do for now, also I included this link to another great artist's resource site with a LOT more info on this and a great place to ask more question: http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=32 Good luck
  22. Shopping for My First Kiln

    Thanks Oldlady for the encouragement, I would enjoy having it restored. Do you think a 240 volt outlet be what this 230 volt kiln needs?
  23. Selling in Galleries

    Is it maybe a Co-op gallery? Maybe not, but just in case be warned they can be weird. I've been a member of three Co-ops and they are a mixed bag. Be sure you can work with the people in charge, recently I bailed and forfeited two of my paintings to get out of a contract with one due to personality conflicts. Long story. The two prior to that were much more above board and reliable, but I wouldn't call sales brisk. Sitting two days a week and working the till was something I hated and I never sold a thing (but someone who copied Dali paintings was making $1200 a painting weekly, go figure. Well that's the art world.) When I'd spent the money I allotted on monthly memberships I quit when my contract ran out.
  24. Posted pics of the ancient paragon my shopping for a new kiln thread. TY for opinions. 

  25. Shopping for My First Kiln

    @Min, they would but, the Portland one was on the Paragon's own website, so I give those technicians some authority as being knowledgeable over someone that is not on it. Otherwise I don't personally know of anyone, even the ceramics store owner I've spoken of before talks to a repair online through the Georgie's site in Eugene, she might be the woman you're referring to. Coos Bay is a sort of weird place, smaller than ppl think, and short on amenities unless you want to buy weed, I'm serious. Also, I'd probably want this thing more or less rebuilt at least from the control box standpoint, or have one added, or whatever? If someone decided to take me for a sucker or do a sketchy job I wouldn't know the difference, yet.
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