Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


yappystudent last won the day on February 25

yappystudent had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

40 Excellent

About yappystudent

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Ceramics: Sculpture, hand-building vessels, Jewelry.
    Gardening: Mostly veggies and fruits, houseplants.
    New Age music.
    The Pacific Northwest.
  1. House closing escrow, trying to ...oh it's just too complicated. Moving is a madhouse. Haven't done much clay lately.

    1. glazenerd


      Get through this, resettle and then you can really enjoy clay time.

    2. Marcia Selsor

      Marcia Selsor

      I completely agree. It has taken almost 10 months and still not completely set up to full capacity in my shop. Two largest kilns not functional yet.


  2. Anoka Sand Celadon Bowl

    Alchemical wizardry.
  3. I painted today: put a layer of gold craft paint on my scuffed up paint-splattered Birkenstocks, yay! Everything going to hell in a handbasket otherwise.

  4. I agree with terrim8, but on the whole I don't know. Still, based on experience, I've known so many people who are completely non-creative I think first you have to born even having an interest in art, let alone whatever it is that gives you the ability to hone a skill. You can also be born creative and have the ability to do art beaten out of you, literally or figuratively, or just crippled to the point you only turn out the occasional bit of art, but can't or won't make it a focus. For my part, no one in my biological family that I know of can either do art or even cares to look at it. Their walls are literally bare of art and they don't even listen to music, and seem perfectly satisfied that way. My ex was of the type who'd done a few promising paintings in high school but was more interested in other hobbies with his free time and thought painting was 'girly'. I've also known lovely folks in classes I've taken who really wanted to be good artists and enjoyed what they did, they liked the artist lifestyle very much, but to put it kindly they weren't winning any scholarships with their barns and redwoods. Based on that last observation, even when the will and time spent is there, the wall may not always breached into whatever the next level up is, but I think the average person who is really interested can still produce really enjoyable stuff just with practice, even if it doesn't reach into the sublime, and that's fine. When I first started doing grown-up art, when I was on the right track I would pretty quickly get "In the Zone" so to speak. Other artists I've known also seemed to be familiar with this sense of everything else falling away and suddenly you're connected to your materials, your ideas seem to flow through your hands.
  5. Really need to work on something, but slaving night and day to get my house ready for sale. Have to set a couple hours by for art, I'm feeling it's loss. (Of art, not the house ^^)

    1. glazenerd


      If only life allowed us to do what we love most.

    2. yappystudent


      Yes, and WHEN we love it most. -TY

  6. That's funny some of our signature icons are taken from the step we feel the most stimulated by. For me it's sculpting; watching the sketches I've made for a concept come to exist in 3D reality is like having some strange power. If the question had been 'most successful' step, I'd say the drawings themselves, as the clay object resulting doesn't always turn out, however I do drawings all the time for all sorts of ideas, the drawing step has lost it's challenge so to speak. Recently I've been doing some small pieces with no drawings at all, just free-carving into a lump of clay, what I've come up with is a lot of tribal-looking faces that have given me further ideas that I can't wait to try.
  7. I have an easy ^6 cheat for this, sort of, since I also love the way 'American' shino looks; but this doesn't include the peachy blush bit: Slip paint your piece with a speckled buff clay first, then use your basic white glaze; I use a fairly inexpensive food safe white that is supposed to be an opaque classroom underglaze, in two layers brushed on with a hake brush. How much speckling and variation comes through depends directly on how thin I apply it, but it always comes out with that sort of pleasing ancient Japanese Wabi look. If I were going for the 'blush' effect, I might try and brush on an area of slip with more red oxide in it. If fact now I'm going to have to try this.
  8. @Pres, -I appreciate your posting some of the more 'artistic' questions, the technical ones about physical ceramic making are also very useful for prompting me to do my research, but personally were kicking my butt since I have a lot to learn as yet. These more introspective questions are a fun variation and also cause me to learn new things, even if it's only inward things, they are still very helpful for me in my artistic process. Ruh-oh, here comes another epiphany...
  9. *Grabs the talking stick* Instead of doing my assignments in class, I often would draw in the margins of my paper. These were usually long winding depictions of a little girl leading a caravan of horses and oxen pulling wagons. I think the idea was I wanted to run away to find my own kind. I also drew a lot of this kind of stuff out of school as well. Really I think I was screaming for someone to take me out of school and educate me as an artist exclusively but in our 'civilization' we don't do that kind of thing, especially for girls. Now I'm trying to make up for lost time.
  10. Bulk Corks For Jars

    ty for the links, been trying to find a source for silicone perfume bottle corks and a clockface for a burl slab...
  11. Novice Questions

    Love that your figurines are hand molded. Take it from someone who is also a novice, these folks don't mind if you ask noob questions, and if they do you can really stick it to them for fun. But anyway, I also do a lot of small work similar in process to what you're doing, and I can relate the following: Just did a mass of retesting at ^5-^6 -all the shop I use will fire to, (and since I tend to see this cone # bandied about a lot I would say it's about average and you can find a lot of products for that firing range for sale) -and I loove the set of Duncan 'concepts' underglazes I bought, if that is, you want flat clear reliable colors that usually fire with a nice glossy or high satin finish without the need for clear glaze, over bisque. This also has the best reds, purple, yellow and other bright true colors I've seen in the medium-fire heat range. I have yet to try them on unglazed ware, which was probably what you are asking. But over bisque at least, they work perfectly and have high colors even over black and dark brown clays which is ordinarily an issue. They play well with specialty glazes that I like to layer over them, working as a base color. I often have to thin them with water as the shop I buy from tend to let their materials dry out on the shelf... I also really like Fireshades brand underglazes, they only fire to a velvet finish, but the colors are vivid and clear with great coverage. They are your basic economy-price underglaze and they definitely help save me some $. I bought them in larger 1/2 pint jars of basic colors, white, yellow, blue, red. These don't work as well over really black clay, but did fine over a groggy dark brown I use quite a lot. I also have a set of 'Amaco semi-moist underglaze decorating colors' (that is the exact title) As you guessed I've found them unnecessary and a bit of a spendy indulgence, they do work just fine and are easy to use, store and clean up. They look exactly like regular underglaze from the bottle if you use 2-3 layers, stick with one layer for a watercolor look. I haven't' tested them for layering different colors or under specialty glazes, and they only fire to a velvet/matte finish without a clear coat. Don't waste your time on Duncan 'french dimensions' in case you were thinking about it. It's a sort of engobe-slip-trailing stuff in little bottles. When it works it's great, but most of the time it puffs, bubbles and fusses. Welcome to the forum, I've found it to be a great inclusive place, one of the best forums on the web IMHO.
  12. Right now all I can think about is my impending move out of state. Surrounded by piles of small bisqueware and no means to fire it. Argh!

  13. How To Make A Tabletop Fountain?

    What Denice said. Pay careful attention that the entire bowl dries evenly and if you smooth it with a sponge after it's partly dry, make sure you do both inside and outside at once, I made a nice big bowl using this method and had the top pop off in a ring because I applied too much water to the outside without thinking about the inside...
  14. How To Achieve Infinite Dimension In Your Glaze?

    ..............Fire hot! Nggh! *waves club
  15. Almost

    I use a tool called a wipe out tool. I don't know what it is for, but I use it. It is a rubber pencil tip. It works magnificent for this job. On the rare occasions I get this issue I take vinegar and put it on the crack, then I let it soak in, then I take this wipe out tool and pencil over the crack. Never have a problem after that. You have to do this at the stage between leather hard and bone dry. I used to have one of these when I did watercolor painting, they're for very quickly fixing the edge of an area of applied watercolor. If you're fast enough you can reset the edge of the watercolor before it leaves a watermark, since with that type of painting you're often painting over a faint sketch and are trying to stay right on the line and get a particular dried edge. Easier than wiping back with your fingernail, which also works.