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About kraythe

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  1. My best kiln firing ever for this hobbyist. A couple of minor glaze flaws in some pieces but I am SOOO happy. :) Thanks for all the help The reduction came out magnificent.
  2. thanks all. We will see how the pots come out. I am just a hobbyist after all
  3. looks like backing off the gas worked, I am now over my thermocouple temp. Hit target I think, time to cool SLOWLY. *crosses fingers on this temmoku* thanks
  4. I will back off on the propane. I use tanks 4 x the size of your barbequeue tank and they dont freeze.
  5. Digital pyrometer, top draft, only very slightly covered for light reduction. Stalled or moving extremely slowly, burners all the way open. I can try backing off on the propane, its almost full bore right now. and not doing much.
  6. I am currently firing some high fire stuff and my gas kiln is seriously stalled and wont move. I have tried adjusting the propane, opening valves, adjusting airflow and it just stubbornly hangs at the same temp. Any suggestions? I need to get it to about 1290 to get just over cone 10. The kiln is a 2 burner olympic torchbearer.
  7. Yeah, the only problem is, as I said before, I cant really see the cones well through these tiny peep holes. Especially though all the glare inside the kiln.
  8. I have a pyrometer but it doesn't do as good of a job as cones because cones measure heat work and pyrometer just instant temp and I don't have them on all levels, just on the middle ring. So I can do the flames trick because I want to do some cool stuff with temoku. I have been firing cone 10 and finding out my cones are not down all the way so things are being underfired and its frustrating to not know just how much work is being done.
  9. I do simple things and the tool I use is … wait for it … an old ball point pen. Honestly it works great. if you want to take it up a notch once you write on the letters let it dry a bit and scape off the crumbs of clay. Then mix up some slip with iron / cobalt / whatever colorant you like and then cover the letters with the slip . Again wait for it to dry a bit (but not too long) and scrape off the excess with a plastic rib or just an old credit card to avoid scoring the clay. This is a Japanese technique called Mishima and it looks so cool. You can even mix the mishima and relief carving.
  10. I have an Olympic torchbearer 18" top draft gas kiln and haven't payed much attention to reduction or oxidation until now but I am interested in doing some things with reduction and I was wondering how this hobbyist can tell if I have a reduction atmosphere or not. I usually adjust it to get a clean burn below and have virtually no flames out the top. I am wondering if that means I have an oxidation atmosphere in the kiln and what I can do to make it a reduction atmosphere. I have a set of bricks I stack on top to protect my garage from the affect of the kiln and I pre-position a brick so I can seal the kiln for cooling. I notice if I push in my sealing brick to partially cover the hole, flames start shooting out of the hole of the kiln into the brick chimney. Is this causing a reduction atmosphere? I don't have money to buy an O2 sensor so hoping I can determine it without one. Thanks. P.S. I cant really see my cones through these tiny peep holes. Any advice on how to make them easier to see?
  11. Thanks for the advice. I tried the wonderbat and had the same problems I often have with the wooden bats. I was wondering if anyone has tried to cast plaster inserts for the wonderbat system? Would it be too thin? I have debated getting two of the adapters and epoxying them togetether if the batt was too thin.
  12. I am a hobbyist thrower on the wheel and I tried the Hydrostone bats but I had a couple of problems with them .First of all they wiggle on my pins over time and chatter which makes things harder. However more seriously I have problems throwing on them because they suck in so much water that I cant keep the bottom of my hands lubricated. I am constantly dragging against the dry stone and the grog in my clay acts like sandpaper on my hands. Furthermore when I am throwing the bottom half inch of my clay gets deprived of water in seconds and I cant push in on the base without a lot of force and even then the clay doesn't want to move. Finally, the fact that the bat is 3/4 of an inch higher than the wheel head sort of messes with this hobbyist. On the other hand I am sick of Masonite bats (which warp in 2 days), Plastic bats (which don't hold the clay to the wheel head well) and so on. So some questions. 1. Can you give me tips on throwing on plaster so that I don't feel like my hands are on my orbital sander and even forgetting the sand, so I can maintain some kind of lubrication and it doesn't suck all the water out of the bottom of my clay in 2 seconds. 2. Has anyone ever used a bat system that allows me to use something like versa-bat but with plaster bats or should i just get the versa bat square and cast some plaster bats to fit? If I cast my own the thickness of the versa bat is there any kind of reinforcement I should put in the bat fro strength? Thanks.
  13. Thanks a bunch. Yeah I did assume well mixed glaze.
  14. I will point out that you don’t need to look at the line if you know the specific gravity. Assuming the glaze is well mixed and the SG is 1.4, then 140g of wet glaze by weight will give you 100g dry raw.
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