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kraythe

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About kraythe

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  1. Yeah, do you know a vid with centering on the hump? I would love to figure that out. Also I worry I would make radically different pots. I already have issues getting two pre measured ones to turn out the same. Partially angle, but that cup is slightly off. I throw with the wheel running pretty fast I think, maybe too fast. I have been watching ingleton pottery vids too much maybe. Man he throws fast. Alas not possible where i live.
  2. I have seen many of them, I guess my main problem is that I cant center except against the wheel head / batt. Like I said I am just a self taught hobbyist. Every time I have tried to follow those vids, I end up with a mess.
  3. I have never been able to do that. I am a self taught potter and perhaps there is some trick to it that I am missing.
  4. Well the picture is zoomed in quite a lot. The finished cup is only about 2.5 inches tall. I don't think you could make much of a "mug" with 160g of clay. Also I have aimilar problems with bigger pieces
  5. I am just a hobbyist and having fun throwing some small cups of 160g of cone 5 porcelain on my wheel. I can get the reasults to be pleasing enough but consistency in form is eluding me. However, one thing that is really baffling me is what is going on when I start forming the shape. I center then pull to a tall thin cylinder that I can just get two fingers inside of. My objective it's to flare out the cup just above the base and have it hold that shape all the way up so it looks like a small base with a pleasing parabola shape. I put two fingers inside and push out and the bottom works but as I move up the clay just flows around the fingers and doesn't stretch and I end up with a reverse hourglass as in the picture. I don't really want to thin the clay any more than needed at this point as I have already pulled tall so I don't pull the shape on both inside and out, just inside. Also I'd like to be able to scrape the slip outside with a wooden or silicone rib before I shape it so the outside is not slick anymore and touching it will make too much friction and destroy the cup. I also experience this when trying to shape larger cylinders. They come out nice enough but they don't do what I want them to do and they are inconsistent. Suggestions would be appreciated.
  6. Glaze Application Questions.

    Another question, if I am using a glaze with cobalt inside a bowl and want to seal it with a non toxic glaze can I apply the clear over the cobalt and fire once and be sure the clear will not mix with the cobalt layer?
  7. Stopping Glaze Drip Beads? This is probably more of an application question than a chemistry question but I am getting a problem where I have glazes with Specific Gravity around 1.45 that are forming beads of glaze on the rim of cups and other wares when dipping or pouring the glaze I am wondering if there is something I can add to the glaze to stop that. Id hate to thin the glaze further and I don't have the equipment to spray safely. So I am wondering if anyone can help me out with tips on chemistry, specific gravity or application technique. For dipping I will wax the foot then dip up to the foot for 6 seconds or so then lift the piece out. For pouring I am filling the inside of the piece with glaze then pouring while rotating the rim. Removing Tong / Finger Marks? When dipping my pots in the glaze I often get marks for where the tongs or fingers were holding the piece and I would like to fill them in a way to not be obvious that they were there. I have tried a small squeeze bottle to drip the glaze but that invariably results in a small bump that doesn't go away in the firing. Any suggestions of how I can do this without making the marks on the piece? Seal over toxic materials with clear? Another question, if I am using a glaze with cobalt inside a bowl and want to seal it with a non toxic glaze can I apply the clear over the cobalt and fire once and be sure the clear will not mix with the cobalt layer?
  8. Apologies for the thread spam but I have another question for you experts. I currently have glaze recipes that call for silica 200 mesh but I only have 350 mesh and I was wondering if that is a valid substitute or if I will be messing the glaze up. So what effect will the smaller mesh size have and does it really matter?
  9. I am sick of my current clay because the supplier wont tell me jack about it and I cant get it to fit any glaze without crazing so I was browsing through the Laguna site looking for an alternative and then I looked at some of their cone 10 clays and some have COE down to 4.6. How on earth can you glaze to that clay. Every glaze recipe I know STARTS at 6.0 and goes up from there and the most common is in the 7's. Clearly I am missing something. Can someone help me out here ?
  10. Best Cone 6 Porcelain?

    I wish I knew. They wont tell me crap about this clay, not whats in it, nothing. They just say its COE is 6.0 to which I call Bullsh...op. They wont event tell me what the recipie they have for it to not craze has in it so I cant use that as a base glaze. Basically I am sick of this clay and interested to moving to something else. I am used to working with midfire porcelain but not opposed to going to stoneware if I can find one with a nice texture or even high fire porcelain.
  11. Best Cone 6 Porcelain?

    I am using a cone 5-6 porcelain from my local supplier and I have had crap luck getting anything to fit without crazing from 5.9 COE glaze though 7.1. It's all a matter of degree how bad. My wife said the pots were crackling long after being unloaded even though I waited until I the kiln parts could be unloaded by hand to unload. I am using an olympic 1827g gas kiln.
  12. It very well could be too thin. I perhaps even slightly overfired. Had a really hard time seeing the cone through my tiny peepholes so I only went by my pyrometer. Perhaps I should have let it sit at that temp for longer. When I opened up the cone 6 was curled all the way over to floor. Even the thinnest application with a few second dip crazed. The glaze that came out rough was an FeO2 based tea duct glaze and even where it was double appied, had to pour because I made Amal batches, it was still rough texture and not glassy smooth.
  13. I finished my test run from my kiln and literally every clear glaze came out crazed, despite having some supposedly anti-craze glazes. I don't know what to use for this clay body I am using and I have about had it up to the neck with trying to find something to fit it. So I am looking for recommendations on good clay bodies for cone 6 porcelain that will actually fit some glazes. I am even open to going to cone 10 porcelain. I have limited time to do pottery and want something that I can actually fire to be functional pieces. I am open to suggestions. Thanks.
  14. I have been trying my hand at glazing for the first time as a hobbyist and I fired perhaps 20 pieces. Some of the glaze crawled like mad, other glaze crazed but my tea dust and a third clear did something unexpected. The glaze looks good and not crazed but it still feels rough to the touch I am wondering why that may be. Not enough glaze one the piece? Should I have done more than one layer to solve that? Thanks for the help.
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