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jothamhung

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About jothamhung

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  1. I don't have a temperature reader on the that kiln, which is something I should get asap. I've just been using witness cones and the bar.
  2. Thank you for the reply. Okay I just shut it off, but it looks to me that the kiln sitter was on its way of falling and got jammed. I barely touched the sitter and it fell, so it looks like it did hit cone 5??? But its been at that temp for god knows how long, 9 to 10 hours maybe? Anybody know what will happen to the wares or whats likely to happen.
  3. Hi everyone! I'm having an issue with my electric kiln at home right now. I started a glaze firing at 1am today at a slow temp, and then put it on full blast early this morning at around 8am before I left to work. It is now 5pm and it is still firing. My glaze firings normally take 5 to 6 hours, but due to the large load and some cracking issues I've been having, I thought I would give it a slow initial start. I'm concerned the wares have been in there too long. Should I turn it off or wait until it possibly shuts off at Cone 5? I have a CRESS FX27P with a kiln sitter, I normally use witness cones, but this kiln has been so reliable with the bar that this one time I didn't do it and left the house all day thinking it would be off early in the morning. When I got home at 5pm it was still blasting, so it's been firing for 15 hours. I've done close to about 50 glaze firings already in this kiln. Any advice would be appreciated! Thinking about just shutting it off asap. The kiln isn't making that clicking sound anymore either which is of concern to me too.
  4. Hi everyone, I've been working on creating a home studio space (about 400 sq ft) and I understand that air quality is one of the more important topics. I'm a production potter and will be making a lot of work and in turn probably creating more clay dust throughout the process. What kind of air filters do you guys use in your home studios? Any input or advice will help! Thanks
  5. Thank's everyone! I'm currently located in Southern California. I was thinking about going to a bookstore or a library soon. I'll let you guys know what I find!
  6. Thanks for the quick replies! I have been electric oxidation firing Cone 5 stoneware clay from Laguna, Red B Mix, Speckled Buff, and B Mix, using Cone 5 commercial glazes as well. I own a Cress FX27P top loader with a kiln sitter.
  7. Hey everyone! I'm in the process of creating a home studio, and I thought it would be a great idea to start making my own glazes. What are some good resources, magazines, or books that have helped you guys when it comes to introductory to advanced glaze making? Also, are there any tips or suggestions when I'm starting out! Thank you so much and any input would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Hey everyone! I came across a good deal on this Shimpo wheel and just wanted to get some thoughts on it. I tried looking up specifications online but couldn't find anything. Anyone know the centering capacity or the HP on this wheel? Also if it is a belt driven system and how much maintenance is necessary usually for these wheels. Has anyone ever thrown on these before as well? I would appreciate any input! Thank you. The model is the Shimpo 21 RK-10.
  9. Hey everyone! I recently purchased a used Cress FX27P Electric Kiln, and after bisque firing the first time with the automatic kiln sitter, I noticed that the thumbwheel does not move, and appears to have some sort of malfunction. I figured out a way to bisque firing while moving the thumbwheel manually, but I haven't tried glaze firing yet. Anybody owns this kiln or a similar version of this kiln and can help with how I can glaze fire (cone 6) by moving the thumbwheel myself? For everyone that doesn't know what the purpose of the thumbwheel is, there are numbers 0 to 10 on it, and it moves gradually by itself during a firing. 0 being no power to the elements, and 10 being maximum power to the elements. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.
  10. Also I just looked into a peep hole and a couple of pieces are cracked and some bottoms are cracked and broken. How is that possible when I had the lowest and slowest firing setting? Maybe it's the size of the load? Or the connection between the actual firing speed and dials are off?
  11. The thumbwheel numbers control how much power goes to the elements, 0 being none and 10 being maximum power. It only goes from 0 to 10.
  12. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
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