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Johnmicheal

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About Johnmicheal

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  • Yahoo
    Nightingalepottery@yahoo.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mentone,Al
  1. On my 4" thick plaster slabs, I build voids using 2x6 ect, I hold them down by screwing 2x4 over them to keep them from floating up. It can cut up to ten pounds from a fifty pound form. Every little bit counts. I have even created voids with bubble wrap in larger bowl forms, again tacking a stir stick over the form to keep the wrap from floating out of the form.
  2. Electric Kiln In Garage?

    I think it depends more about what you plan to have in the garage with it. Electric boxes are commonly found in the garage or upgrading with a sub panel should make wiring fairly straight forward. Garages, even if they are attached, are supposed to not share fumes to the house, i.e. Gas or exhaust from your car. All you need is your flat concrete floor, enough space around the kiln, 18" is recommended, and alittle ventilation, 10$ box fan in a window, or open your garage door, and your set. The biggest hazard is anything that blows in and lays on your kiln and catches fire, newspaper, wrapping paper, lots of leaves, ect. Checking on your kiln while your firing, priceless. If it's a manual firing, a nice chair for the last hour.
  3. I typically use a wonderbat system for my cups and small bowls. The small square foot print saves room on the racks. But for plates and large lids, ect, you can't beat plaster. I use a lot of pure and simples forms. In addition, they give a lot of info on proper use of plaster, mixing, making custom molds. I too was scared away from using plaster from my community studio, but I see why they do this. I strictly use it on a wheel I can clean throughly, but I know I've had work go through with alittle contamination, nothing blew up, glazed it, fired it, would never tell the difference. Still it pays to be vigilant, I use wood tools, and my favorite rib is a red. I've gone on to make my own plate designs because of plaster. I highly recommend visiting the pure and simple pottery web site, they have all the info u need.
  4. Loads of deer and turkey, cats of course. No traffic, live at the end of a dirt road. Forest and field, let nature rest, no hunting allowed anymore, so the deer aren't as jumpy. We have armadillos now, the raccoons and possum seem jealous. Hummingbirds battle for there turf outside my windows. All I need to do is look up from my work and see....
  5. Foreign Kilns

    Can you post some pictures? So interesting
  6. Kiln Room Ventilation

    Nope, rooms to small for anything other than the kilns while I'm firing. I use it as a drying room when not firing. I've not been to concerned with the heat because I have manually fired these kilns, but with the advent of new computer kiln controllers, heat has become a concern. I have two kilns at present in this room, I don't fire them at the same time. I have used a box fan and a screen door for a couple years.
  7. Kiln Room Ventilation

    This is what I'm thinking for room heat and stuff, then a downdraft for fumes, or inner kiln atmospheric oxygenation
  8. Kiln Room Ventilation

    Sooooo would a 400cfm inline duct fan be enough or do I need to step it up to the 900. I'm building a hood to go over both kilns and using a remote fan to pull the air, and of course provide a fresh air source
  9. Introduction And Garage Studio

    My addiction grew unchecked because both me and my wife are potters. We took over the garage, the shed, a cellar, and another building that we meant to hold it all. It's what you do. The drive outside the garage is always full of buckets, ect to wash. I'm just glad I live at the end of the road so nobody really notices. Hehe. And kilns...good gracious, we collect kilns like playing cards. Did I say it's an addiction....
  10. Kiln Room Ventilation

    If I wanted to use an in line duct type fan or a squirrel cage, does any one have any suggestion
  11. Switch Amperage Question

    So sorry, it's an Olympic 2327. I agree, and understand the amperage on high. I don't understand why at med only one element is on, and what causes the different amp draw. As far as I know, the top and bottom are the only two elements with different, hotter, temperature for the reasons you have stated. I find it interesting that the middle two elements, on low, registered so much lower in amperage. What causes this? All three switches are the same, the four central elements have the same resistance, so should also be the same. All three switches are straight wired to the kiln sitter. The kiln sitter doesn't control how these elements behave......I looked up what wiring diagrams there are, it's wired correctly, the switches are good(tested)....I would just like to know why it behaves this way, I like to have some confidence in repairing not only my equipment, but also when helping others with theirs
  12. Switch Amperage Question

    Sorry attachment not complete,redo
  13. I just replaced the elements. I'm always trying to learn more through testing and investigation. The resistance on all elements was good, as you would expect for new elements. Tested all three 3position switches, normal. When I moved on to testing amperage, I had some interesting results that I can't account for. I wrote them down in the included attachment. I recorded the amperage of each of the elements, in low/med/high. I welcome some advice or information about my results.
  14. Kiln Room Ventilation

    I've used something similar for fumes, but what about heat
  15. Melting Plugs

    The gap between rings looks a lot like the gap that forms between the top ring and lid. I don't see any gap between rings when the kiln is off, once it reaches temp, there is the glowing gap between each of the rings and the top
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