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About Johnmicheal

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  1. Johnmicheal

    Getting rid of my switches

    I've got plenty of high temp wire and connectors, so I'll just bypass the whole wire nuts idea. Nice of them to respond. My old kiln continues to live on. You can't beat longevity of pottery equipment.
  2. Johnmicheal

    Getting rid of my switches

    I have response from Olympic to my query I have attached a diagram for you to follow, it will be the same for each switch. You can use the hard yellow wire nuts to connect the wires together. The L1 and L2 are the input power wires into the switch from the back of your electrositter. You will disconnect them from the switch and remove the slip on connectors. Connect L1 to the two single element lead wires on the switch using wire nuts. Then connect L2 to the double lead wires. This will allow you to use the existing wires to create the same circuit without the switches.
  3. Johnmicheal

    Getting rid of my switches

    Thanks Neil, I sent an email to Olympic a couple of weeks ago, but never got a response. I can't imagine this is an unusual request. These switches are only getting cheaper in there quality and more expensive. Funny enough though, the last switches I bought were from Mexico, and they look to be of a better quality, but time will tell. I figured while I had the box apart I would simplify thing' s a bit lol. I'll give them a call this week, I'll let you know what they say, and if I'm able to make the change, follow up with some info and pictures.
  4. I have an Olympic 2327 1phase 240. After many years of manually firing, I have bought an electrositter to replace the kiln sitter. One of my reasons for going in this direction, other than the obvious improvement in control, is I'm tired of replacing switches. My question is, what is the most efficient way to eliminate the three manual switches. Wiring diagram would be appreciated, I am a visual type of person. I have good idea of what's needed. I thought I would gather as much info as possible.
  5. I have been using plexiglass to create a smooth surface for my table tops, i.e. Wedging tables. I pore them in blocks, upside down, so the finish side is the bottom. Using a sheet of plexiglass for the bottom, I have wood for the sides, clamp it all down. Makes for beautiful slab. I have a old reciprocal palm sander, that I use sometimes, when I'm feeling finicky, use to vibrate the bottom of the form. Alittle vibration, no bubbles, easy.
  6. I wonder about the life of plaster. I have been given old plaster, because the user thought it was useless. It was 1-2 yrs old, lumpy, ect. I sifted it with a flour sifter, used it with no noticeable issues. I'll be with alittle labor involved, i.e. Sifting, which is a pain by the way, but it was free. I have not noticed anything off about the mold I used it on. I will say that the plaster set quicker than normal, but on a small piece that wouldn't matter. I have recently made some bats out of some older, lumpy plaster, and not noticed any problems. The molds we small, a took the time to mix the plaster, working out most of the lumps, no issues to report.
  7. Johnmicheal

    Pyrometer Usage?

    I have the dual skutt pyro on an old Olympic. I drilled two holes, top and bottom, giving me two zones. I liked the info telling me the difference between top and bottom. Because the kit comes with thermocouple holders with friction screws, I pull them back out of the way when loading the kiln. I still use cones to fire with, but the temp info helps a lot with rate, and it allows me to even it out, allowing for a much more even firing.
  8. Johnmicheal

    Longer firing

    I measured the resistance of my elements, they were beyond the 10 % you typically advise, closer to15%. I've seen worse looking elements, which says a lot for how much abuse these things can take.
  9. I try to stand, but a long day makes it hard. It's also quite a thigh burner, if you're getting out of a chair every time someone walks up.I'm looking for a tall stool to prop against. I engage people, it may be off putting to some, but I feel like I see money walking off, if I just sit and occupy myself. My only other choice is to be actually working on something, like a demo.
  10. Johnmicheal

    wheel head bearing service

    A couple of years ago, I rebuilt me rk2, these are the bearings I ordered Shimpo rk2 WSPDRRG Drive Ring - RK2 $37.25 I ordered them from www.vxb.com. Here are the 3 different sizes: Kit9705 6204-2NSE Nachi Bearing 20x47x14:Sealed:C3:Japan Kit9706 6205-2NSE Nachi Bearing 25x52x15:Sealed:C3:Japan Kit9703 6202-2NSE Nachi Bearing 15x35x11:Sealed:C3:Japan
  11. Johnmicheal

    Longer firing

    Neil, we usually use a medium cone 6 setting
  12. Johnmicheal

    Longer firing

    How long does it typically take to fire a cone 6, medium in a 1227 skutt. I am used to manually firing a kiln. It usually doesn't take more than 8-9 hrs to do a glaze. The skutt is bigger obviously, and the computer controller may ramp more conservatively than my manual adjustments, but 12-14 hrs seems a bit much. The elements don't appear to be bad, no codes thrown for stalled temp, relays all working. I know the box I put on it came from a 3 phase kiln, but I did the necessary conversion, i.e. replaced the power block and wiring, elements were converted to 240 1 phase. Any other ideas?
  13. On my 4" thick plaster slabs, I build voids using 2x6 ect, I hold them down by screwing 2x4 over them to keep them from floating up. It can cut up to ten pounds from a fifty pound form. Every little bit counts. I have even created voids with bubble wrap in larger bowl forms, again tacking a stir stick over the form to keep the wrap from floating out of the form.
  14. Johnmicheal

    Electric Kiln In Garage?

    I think it depends more about what you plan to have in the garage with it. Electric boxes are commonly found in the garage or upgrading with a sub panel should make wiring fairly straight forward. Garages, even if they are attached, are supposed to not share fumes to the house, i.e. Gas or exhaust from your car. All you need is your flat concrete floor, enough space around the kiln, 18" is recommended, and alittle ventilation, 10$ box fan in a window, or open your garage door, and your set. The biggest hazard is anything that blows in and lays on your kiln and catches fire, newspaper, wrapping paper, lots of leaves, ect. Checking on your kiln while your firing, priceless. If it's a manual firing, a nice chair for the last hour.
  15. I typically use a wonderbat system for my cups and small bowls. The small square foot print saves room on the racks. But for plates and large lids, ect, you can't beat plaster. I use a lot of pure and simples forms. In addition, they give a lot of info on proper use of plaster, mixing, making custom molds. I too was scared away from using plaster from my community studio, but I see why they do this. I strictly use it on a wheel I can clean throughly, but I know I've had work go through with alittle contamination, nothing blew up, glazed it, fired it, would never tell the difference. Still it pays to be vigilant, I use wood tools, and my favorite rib is a red. I've gone on to make my own plate designs because of plaster. I highly recommend visiting the pure and simple pottery web site, they have all the info u need.

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