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Johnmicheal

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    Mentone,Al

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  1. Thank you both, for the info, I'm well on my way to replacing these now. I like understanding better why it is what it is.
  2. So 16.3 and the middle 19.5 is pretty well wasted In addition, I've cut the feed wires of the elements and now the resistance is twice that number, like 30 and 38?
  3. So 16.3 and the middle 19.5 is pretty well wasted
  4. Can you test the resistance of an element without disconnecting it from the relays. I used the traditional crimp connectors on this kiln. The kiln is a skutt 1227, with new relays, wiring, controls. The elements are the only thing not replaced recently, and I don't know how old they are. I'm asking because my firings have gotten dramatically longer. Like a bisque taking 11 hrs.
  5. I assume all of these kilns, with similar sizes, use elements that are made from the same material, unless you get into the high heat stuff. Do they have the same resistance.
  6. Referencing the prebent elements, I got a set of 1027 elements for my weird skutt kiln ( that I suspect is not a real one, but who knows, lol) and of course the bends didn't fit the kiln, and had to very carefully unbend, then rebend to fit, that sucked, luckily it was only one. So I see the merit in your suggestion.
  7. Soooo, not to beat a dead horse, but now I have too replace the elements in that 2327 Olympic, I have the skutt controller, would it be a big deal to just put 1027 skutt elements, rather than the Olympic elements. And, is there really an difference between them anyways.
  8. I can't answer too the digital side of your problem, but I can say that it's not a leakage issue. Every kiln I fire has a lid gap or worse. I have fitted lids in the past, but on the whole of it, I don't think it's a priority unless it's causing an issue with venting. In which case I just adjust for that also.
  9. I went with the smaller lid, nice thing about it is it fits this lid lifter that's been knocking about the shop for years. please excuse the brick I don't have a latch for it yet
  10. I'll pull it apart, and "glue" it back together, if it doesn't live, I'm not out anything. It'll work as a replacement bottom. The existing bottom isn't great, otherwise, I'd use it as a lid
  11. The crack staggers, and follows the brick. I have kiln cement that I've used too repair bricks with. As well as some new banding, it's for a 1027, which is a hair short, but I should be able to make it work
  12. This is my existing lid, it formed a pressure crack down the middle. Can I simply put a new band around it with a little more aggressive clamping, or am I going to have to pull it apart and repair it. And put a more aggressive clamp on it . It formed because the existing band had loosened, it was so old, I couldn't tighten it correctly. And the side support put a lot of uneven stress on it. I will likely hook it to the ceiling in the future.
  13. It's 3" brick, I'll look at it all again and see what I can do for a hing
  14. My 29 1/4 measurement was from flat to flat, it's close too 30" corner to corner No Denise, it wouldn't work as a bottom, and I don't really need one, but by a happy coincidence, it does fit my Olympic
  15. I'm trying too replace the lid on a 10 sided old skutt, maybe a 235 kiln sitter model. I have done much work on it through the years, even updating to computer control. I was always pointed towards the 1027 as it's modern equivalent, and had no problems. I buy a lid, I didn't measure it, that's on me, but it's too small. The existing kiln is 29 1/4 " wide. The 1027 is 28 3/8". I called Skutt, and was told I had probably bought a Frankenstein, and that they never sold this size kiln, even back too the late 70s, which is when my sister in law purchased it new. I need to know if there is a 10 sided model, in any manufacturer, that fits this size.
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