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About irenepots

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  • Birthday 09/05/1952

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    Jersey Shore

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  1. name this glaze?

    I agree it looks like 112 but the unglazed bit at the bottom looks more like 378 to me. Could the main glaze have the speckling?
  2. Rubber/Silicone Ribs

    Actually meant to reply to the previous post, but I feel your pain. I' m trying to find a way to incorporate beginner's bump into my design "theory"......
  3. Rubber/Silicone Ribs

    Oh nicely done!
  4. Rubber/Silicone Ribs

    hahaha potters are so fun!
  5. Slows down when I center

    Hmm, the manual says you can increase the belts tension by rotating the lock nut. And now I remember that I did that when I first adjusted the belt and it didn't hold. Maybe I didn't do it right. I'm going to find the video instructions again
  6. Slows down when I center

    I don't work with more than 3 lbs of clay, and usually between 1-2. How can you tell if it's the motor is slowing down or the belt slipping? I don't see a spring mechanism but you can adjust the motor back by moving the plate that holds it to the frame. If the belt is uncentered, does that mean it's slipping? What would you suggest trying first? Moving the motor would be easiest, but would it be better to change out the wheel head assembly in case the bearing is off? Thanks!
  7. My Clay Boss slows down when I'm pressing down to center clay. The motor is 1/2 hp and the wheel is about 18 months old. I checked the belt and it wasn't at the center of the wheel belt pulley, so I adjusted it following the instructions in the manual, and next time I threw it worked better for a few minutes then started slowing again. When I checked it, the belt was off center again. I sent a picture to Speedball and they decided I need a new wheel head/shaft and bearing, which they sent me. Does this repair make sense? Today is Saturday and Speedball is closed, but I'm not sure I want to switch out the wheel heads until I understand why it will make a difference. Is the wheel supposed to maintain speed when you're centering or is the motor too small in this model? Thanks for any help or suggestions.
  8. Company

    I've had a hummingbird wanting to come inside, and lots of goldfinches eating echinacea seeds. I haven't seen my monarch butterfly for a few days, but he seemed to have made a friend recently so maybe they've gone off together....
  9. My Trains.

    I was very happy and interested to watch your video, thank you for making it available. As a kid I read all the Railway Children books and thought a railway car would be a great place to live. Now we have the small home movement here, but you are way ahead of that. It's a wonderful use of an historical resource. I don't know how you survive without air conditioning tho..... Irene in NJ
  10. My Pots.

    Lovely video! Your pots are beautiful, I loved the swirly pots, and laughed out loud at your "comet" pot. I never would have thought of doing any of the things you experimented with. The crystal glazing is just gorgeous. If I'm ever in Australia I will be sure to drop by the museum and your shop. Thanks for sharing that with us.
  11. My Pots.

    Thanks I'm going to watch it now.
  12. My Pots.

    Hi Graeme, I tried the youtube link but it says the content isn't available. And on the big link you sent I can't find anything about you or your pottery. Please advise, I'd love to see it. Irene
  13. Working With An 18" Deep Kiln

    It says it's reading both thermocouples, but maybe it isn't. Is there a way to check that? I'll check them out see if there's any debris in them, and be sure they're touching the ends of the tubes. They look like they're in good shape, and I've never whacked either of them with a shelf or anything. I've fired the kiln about 50 times. How can i tell if I'm getting all 240 volts? It was wired by an electrician a year ago when I got the kiln, and I still have room in the breaker box for more stuff. Thanks for the ideas. I'm going to read up on how to remove the thermocouple tubes now.
  14. Working With An 18" Deep Kiln

    I have a shelf 1/2" off the bottom. Actually the bottom of my kiln runs warmer than the top, another reason I put the extra shelf on top. Maybe I was running it with 1 element in the top shelf and that's why it was cooler. I've fired with a set of cones on each half shelf, so 6 sets of cones, and unfortunately the cone difference can be more than 1 in a shelf with only 1 element and no thermocouple. I try to put the cones in the center of each half sheet. Have you run across this before? I use the slow glaze cycle exclusively, and a 15 or 20 minute hold at the end. My kiln with 3 shelves of pots in any configuration doesn't have even witness cones. I've tried having a half shelf at the center of a full shelf that has 2 elements, thinking the heat will migrate over but it hasn't helped. Do I need a longer hold? Slower cool down? Do you think I need to program a slower glaze? The same unevenness happens in the bisque, but I've stopped using dark clay and it doesn't seem to matter now, in terms of pinholing I mean. I'll remember that about bigger pieces at the bottom tho. How close to the recommended glaze cone do I have to be in terms of vitrification? Is that the right term?
  15. Being a less-than-tall person, I bought an L&L 18" deep kiln - I couldn't reach the bottom of the 27â€ers. Kiln works great, tho I have to add degrees to the cone offset for 04 bisquing, and remove some from cone 6, ( according to my witness cones). Actually right now I’m using the cone 5 setting and that seems to get my 6 cone to the right spot. My e28s has 4 elements and 2 thermocouples, and this creates some challenges. I get even responses from my witness cones only if I fire with only 2 shelves. With 3 shelves in, the witness cones vary widely. I’ve tried every variation on shelf placement I can think of, including staggering and using 2 1/2 half shelves. The manufacturer says that you need 2 elements and 1 thermocouple per shelf, and I’m pretty sure I also read that the shelves should clear the elements. With my kiln , that means you can only have 2 shelves in, and when I follow these guidelines the kiln gods do favor me with matching witness cones. This has all turned out not to be a big problem for me anyway, because I haven’t had as much time as I’d hoped I would to be making stuff. Also running the kiln seems to cost me only about $10 a month for 3-4 firings. I expected the cost to be much higher. I'm making less at one time, but also getting more instant gratification, (instant being a relative term when applied to a slowly cooling kiln). Should I be less concerned about matching cones? I assume it's a matter of degree. It can be more than 1 cone. Also, I have been "lidding" the load with the 2 unused half shelves because I feel I should have them in there to increase the thermal mass, which is already 1/3 less than what the kiln could hold. Any thoughts on that? Thank you in advance for your advice and experience Irene in NJ