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Magnolia Mud Research

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About Magnolia Mud Research

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    ceramic chemistry

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  1. Magnolia Mud Research

    UPDATED NEW INFO: L&L CNOS Adjustment Needed?

    Tony, The details for absorption test is in the Mastering Cone 6 Glazes. The test outline may be on Ron Roy’s website. Search for Ron Roy pottery. a quick test is to see how long it takes a mug kept full of water to leak onto a piece of paper. Less than a month is NOT passing the test.☺️ I will not be where I can look for the procedure until midweek earliest. Let me know if I should start looking after Thursday. Neil, I will agree that we don’t agree on when one should start meeting specs. That’s for another discussion thread.
  2. Magnolia Mud Research

    UPDATED NEW INFO: L&L CNOS Adjustment Needed?

    Neil, Bill, and others are addressing the settings vs witness cones and seem to focused on tweaking the controller settings. That is OK, I guess, but before getting too deep in the that rabbit hole, you should not be distracted from the two most important questions following any kiln firing: 1. Has the clay body been fired to a state that the water absorption meets your requirements? An absorption value near zero is the target recommended by Ron Roy the co-author of "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes", the handbook for cone 6 firing range. 2. Are the glazes mature? Again see the handbook to evaluate the glazes. If the answer to question 1 is yes, then the firing settings you used in this firing will get your clay body properly fired the next time you fire If the answer is no, then the settings need to be adjusted to reach that target. The same goes for question 2, but get question to yes, before working on question 2. LT
  3. Magnolia Mud Research

    Reputation for selling cheap pottery

    ... or you could just dip the leather hard stoneware honey jars in thick porcelain slip before drying them for the bisque firing and thus make them look like porcelain honey jars. Unless the jars are broken them, no one won't know the difference, and if they are broken, don't deliver them. LT
  4. Magnolia Mud Research

    Ceramic Table Legs

    Concrete meets the requirement of being ceramic, at least according to the American Ceramics Society. LT
  5. Magnolia Mud Research

    Advice - How to fit cork lids for canisters?

    for a while I was making jugs that were plugged with corks. I finally settled on one cork and wrapped the cork with masking tape (the blue stuff) to create a tool to make the correct hole size. Took several tries to get the number of layers needed for my clay body, but the 'tool' works fine. the 'tool' solved both the size of the hole and the angle of the taper right for the corks I wanted to use. For larger corks the idea should also work. LT
  6. Magnolia Mud Research

    Makin a living with electric kilns at cone 6?

    Oxygen in the glaze is present as individual atoms, not molecules. (yeah, I'm being picky on the details)
  7. Magnolia Mud Research

    Glaze Chemisty Education

    I put together a reading list a few semesters ago for those who wanted to go deeper into the science supporting glaze making, and other such parts of making pots. At the moment, I don't know have a copy handy. I'll try to find the document this weekend. My answer to hitchmss's question: Yes, but you might be surprised about the sources that will provide you the best insights, or the "traditional school"-ing you would find the degree. LT
  8. Magnolia Mud Research

    Studio Design

    check with your fire marshal regarding running propane lines through a concrete floor. there are national safety standards for propane in home and industrial buildings. Propane sinks, natural gas is lighter than air will move up. I have studied too many propane fires & explosions due to propane leaks that run along or under flooring. LT
  9. Magnolia Mud Research

    12 Inch Club

    I throw tall cylinders by pulling up to the height that will no deform. move to the next ball of clay and do the same, repeat for half an hour or so, stand up, stretch, and then take the first cylinder, that now has had some time to stiffen, and pull it up higher, thinning the wall, and move down the line. Works for me. use the same idea when making thin walled bowls.
  10. Magnolia Mud Research

    Power Slab Roller

    Thanks Fred, for adding my (now) obvious oversight of precision which the gauge is supposed to achieve.
  11. Magnolia Mud Research

    Hate sieving glaze? DIY rotary sieve

    not if you are continuously having to sieve a glaze. The last time I made 7kg of glaze the start-to-ready to use time, including clean up, was about 80 minutes. The 'normal' time for the other procedure in the studio is over is more than twice 80 minutes, and it still needs to sit overnight, remixed and sieved before being used.
  12. Magnolia Mud Research

    Hate sieving glaze? DIY rotary sieve

    If one is using modern commercial ingredients for glaze ingredients, all of the materials will be ground to a particle size that is smaller than the "standard" glaze slurry sieving recommendation. If the 'rocks' are moved at the weighing step, it is a reasonable assumption that any 'lumping' is related to the mixing methodology, not to the individual materials. The following procedure, used by many industrial mixing processes and taught to sophomore engineering students, is what I use for mixing glazes and avoids the glaze screening step by screening the lumps out with a sieve (I use a kitchen sieve) when measuring the dry ingredients. I add the dry ingredients slowly with vigorous mixing to the measured amount of water needed for that glaze, in the following order: 1. solubles (such as soda ash); 2. "clay" ingredients (including gerstley borate); 3. silica, feldspars, and frits, the less dense ingredients first; 4. colorants (preferably pre-wetted). start with the liquid being vigorously mixed, slowly add the solubles, then the fluffy stuff, the heavy stuff. This procedure takes less time than the studio pottery textbook procedure: dump the solids in a bucket, add water, struggle to get the stuff mixed, screen, mix, screen, and so on … If I use 'bentonite' or a special suspension reagent, the suspension reagent is added to the water at step 1 after the solubles. After thorough mixing of the entire batch, I will check the water/solids ratio by measuring the slurry density by using the weight of a liter of slurry. When dealing with a bucket of glaze that has partially separated into lumps, sludge, and liquid I separate the liquid and sludge by pouring into a clean bucket. The lumps are then crushed with a mallet to peanut size, and then put into a blender with water and/or some of the separated liquid and blended until the lumps are done. This slurry I will sieve with a kitchen strainer, the liquid goes into the sludge and liquid bucket, the rocks go back to the blender. When the rocks are adequately crushed, all the parts are placed back in the clean glaze bucket in the following order, always with vigorous mixing: liquid, sludge, and crushed rocks. Another aspect is that in the studio where I work the glaze buckets are vigorously stirred daily except on weekends. The stirring slows the hard panning. If a glaze recipe continuously produces lumps and hard pan, I either revise the recipe to one that does not lump or hardpan, or I abandon the glaze as "TooDFussy". Looking back, the tendency to be "TDF" shows up during early testing of the glaze when the batch size is only a couple of hundred grams. A fussy glaze is only used as an small batch accent glaze if used at all. LT (Ja, Ik ben een ingenieur!)
  13. Magnolia Mud Research

    Wheel Height

    I would make a sturdy wooden table that allows you to set the wheel on the table. make wooden 'cups' for each wheel legs so the wheel does not slide sideways when you are throwing. LT
  14. Magnolia Mud Research

    Studio Design

    You should consider having a staging area to 'warm' the stored clay from the cold area to the temperature of the working area. Throwing, and shaping the clay is easier at the controlled temperature of 70 F. Same for glazes. LT
  15. Magnolia Mud Research

    Power Slab Roller

    to set the 'gap' on the slab roller: Make two gages the thickness you want the clay to be, one for each end of the roller. Raise the gap between the roller(s), insert the gages, close the gap by adjusting the roller until it barely touches the gages; remove the gages; roll the slabs. If you are starting with a very thick slab, you eyeball the first few settings, then make the final roll using the gages. LT

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