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About hantremmer

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  1. Has anyone used a ruling pen with shellac? I used shellac for the first time yesterday; I suspect it would clog quite quickly and be hard to clean.
  2. Help! I Can't Center Anymore!

    Thanks Pres. I'll also try what you suggest.
  3. Help! I Can't Center Anymore!

    Thanks Min, I'll give that a go. It will feel a bit weird though, I'm sure.
  4. Help! I Can't Center Anymore!

    Thanks for the replies, though I'm not sure I've described this properly. I'm not able to upload my own photo, so I've found one online. This is the kind of shape I'm talking about. Pushing down and having he clay centred at the end of the motion. My spike would be thinner and have a more rounded/pointed top. When I push down from the top, the centre starts to twist. It looks a bit like the nail in the bottom picture until I squash it into shape.
  5. Help! I Can't Center Anymore!

    I'm having problems coning down into a centred piece of clay. I can cone up without issue. When pushing down, the middle of the spike is starting to twist and torque as other people in the thread have described. I'm using my left hand to put a bit of pressure into the clay sideways with my right hand pushing down. I was able to do this with my tutor, but at home I can't avoid that twisting. Coning up and trying again isn't helping. That means I have to brutalise the clay into place to the wheelhead and then centre again once it's in shape. Any ideas? When I was with the tutor it was fine; coning down it felt like the clay was falling away underneath my hands. Can't replicate that. I don't know if I should wedge for longer, use water instead of slip or what.
  6. With something close to hand where the point is about the size of a ball-point pen. My 'signature' looks like something between a piece of graffiti and a chop. I date it and write London or some version of it), to show where it was made. I started doing this after watching a BBC documentary about a very famous English ceramics firm where it said the majority of the work was made abroad, but was 'designed in England'. Even their website has a carefully-worded non-answer to where the products are made. I'm new to this. I'm not comparing anything I make to what they make, or the efforts of the people that make them in Indonesia (or wherever), but it felt a little shady. The brand doesn't match with the bricks.
  7. I like this idea. I've had some trouble throwing and getting the shapes I wanted, so I've gone back to to basics too. It might be useful if you upload sketches showing what kind of shapes you want. That way people can cut their pots in half and see how they compare.
  8. Recommended electric potter's wheel

    Even if we say that the Shimpo has lower torque compared to other wheels - I'm happy to believe it - we're now talking about how much lower. Certainly the wheelhead being affected with only 600g of clay seems abnormal to me. It's a 1/2HP wheel and Shimpo says that it's supposed to handle 45kg/ 100lb being centred. I know not everyone agrees with 'centreing weight' as way to understand a wheel's power, but that's way, way off. Again, I got my wheel about a month ago and it was manufactured this year. I cannot remember if I did the 'hold the wheel at full speed test'. I think I did and it could well have slowed down or stopped. I don't think it was easy or comfortable to hold though. I remember the man who sold me the wheel said he weighed about 200lb and didn't have any problems leaning into the wheel and having it slow, but that could have been his patter. I'm new here and I'm new to pottery, so it would make sense to pay attention to more experienced people. But I can say that I had no issues with 2kg/4lb on my wheel. At least that's a baseline. EDIT Got my numbers mixed up. As as with previous post, I've thrown 2kg/4.4lb without issue on the VL RK3E.
  9. Recommended electric potter's wheel

    Are you talking about the Shimpo Whisper VL RK3E? I've had one for a couple of weeks and have been throwing 2kg/4lb without any problems. If I force my hand down onto the wheelhead while cleaning, it will drag my hand around. I don't think even my Aspire tabletop wheel had problems with 600g. How old is your wheel? I wonder if that might be an issue. Here's the model I'm using: http://www.shimpoceramics.com/vlwhisper.html
  10. I've found some links describing the pottery easel in an earlier photograph. It seems that people have them made. Here's a link with lots of photos and dimensions: http://www.nanhamilton.com/howtodesign/frame/frame.html Here are some secondary links, refrencing that first one http://joannaxfordpottery.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/potter-easel.html http://overglaze.demaine.org/?page_id=418
  11. How do we call it in English?

    Is it this video?
  12. You can't have a bowman without a fletcher.
  13. what is your favorite wax resist?

    Thanks, Dick. I've been looking at Jim Gottuso's work and love the depth on the pieces. https://www.instagram.com/jimgottuso/ https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/pottery-making-techniques/ceramic-decorating-techniques/etched-in-clay-how-to-make-beautiful-relief-surfaces-with-shellac-resist/
  14. what is your favorite wax resist?

    Talking about resists, can anyone recommend a brand of shellac, ideally one that's available in the UK? Unsure if some blend of shellac/resin from a DIY place would be suitable for resist work and 'hydroabrasion' (which I believe is the term).