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Textree

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  1. Textree

    How did they do this ?

    Thanks. I've seen texture mats, spheres, rollers etc. I just thought it was interesting how the carved out divots were filled with a different material. It seems like glaze wouldn't fill them without running out or covering the boundaries or walls between the divots. but I guess it wasn't what I thought at all.
  2. I'm attaching a picture. Does anyone have an idea about how this was made? Specifically I mean the carved out honeycomb type texture of the clay that looks like it was filled in with I guess either different clay, slip, or glaze ?
  3. As for "bonsai colored" and staining it, your advice is in line with conventional wisdom . its a large masculine bonsai pot it shouldn't be too colorful. Unglazed or some kind of oxide wash would be pretty typical. Ill glaze mine, but something tasteful not too showy or flashy
  4. The studio just does cone 6. Although it sounds really cool otherwise . for a monthly fee I can come and go whenever 24 hrs. And they'll show me how to use everything. The ceramic store only has a couple things that are vitreous enough at cone 6 . So ill probably either do the armadillo buffalo wallow or 213 porcelain. They also have laguna frost porcelain, standard very plastic 551 porcelain, and an armadillo porcelain that's a little less vitreous than the 213 . the other midrange stoneware they have is either really dark colored or they say it may bloat at cone 6 I guess I could order something but I think shipping charges on 75 lbs of clay might be pricey
  5. As for doing a small test first. That sounds like good advice. Will do. As for mixing them I guess I could keep it simple. Save myself some time and money. As for the size of the pot - bonsai pots are small relative to the tree inside them. I have lots of smaller pots , (some shohin size that you can hold in your palm , some larger) A bigger one is harder to find and can be really expensive. But assuming normal shrinkage this would end up say....15× 11. (The wood positive is actually 17.5 ×13.5) That's really not out of the ordinary at all. Its large, but I've seen rectangles as big as 20 inches long . and I know lots of people with bonsai it takes 2 men to move , lift, and work on.
  6. That's the thing I don't want to wedge 75 lbs or more of clay together - sounds like a lot of work ... Correct me if I am wrong but if I mix it up as a casting slip then I don't have to. I will mix the moist clays in a trash can with more water with the drill mixer , let it dry out , bust it up , remix it thoroughly with the darvan and water . that way it gets two mixes. The ceramic supply store doesn't have a stoneware porcelain mixture . I don't want to mail order 75 or 100lbs of anything. I started building the wood positive. Its big! Is something this size (more like 17.5 x13.5 ×5 now) going to fire thoroughly in the standard cone 6 firing if say the walls are 3/4 of an inch thick?
  7. I'm guessing you have had some pots crack. I've heard people who live in the Midwest talk about pots breaking. And people saying they need to be completely vitreous but I think most of the time people use stoneware. Am I wrong in thinking stoneware generally isn't 0.00% absorbent ? I thought it was just very close like .3% and that if you over fire stoneware it can actually make it less vitreous
  8. Thank you again. I was thinking the buffalo wallow type and the 213 porcelain mixed something like 50-50 or 66-33 and throwing in a few (3 or 4) lbs of kyanite. Just because a bonsai potter said he has found it helpful and I was reading that some porosity makes good slips as opposed to plasticity . as for it being vitreous I don't think 0 percent absorbtion is necessary. Both those clays are approx. 1.7 I think ... I think something mostly or semi vitreous is sufficient. Would those two clays and kyanite be more or less off white at cone 6? I don't want any unglazed part (around the feet or inside or underneath) to be bright toilet white.
  9. What kind of clay Min? I'm worried about "super coarse". A nice bonsai pot should be vitreous or at least really close. Its wet and exposed to freezing and thawing and triple digit heat for months ...and porous pots will absorb water and break in time. truthfully for me , in texas, this is a vain consideration because it just doesn't get cold enough for that to be a real issue. I have cheap terra cotta pots that have lasted a decade. But if I'm going to the trouble to do it im going to make it nice and the best way. Stoneware and or porcelain. And ill write my name on the bottom . and my grandkids will marvel at my ingenuity and craftsmanship.
  10. I have no idea where or how to fire it, but if ultimately you cannot fire it and you've already made a mold then you might be able to make it again out of Portland cement or some other concrete product. It would be extremely heavy it might even need some steel , but I guess clay is heavy too... Just a thought .
  11. Maybe ill try that chilly . thank you. Even if its 150 lbs full I'm pretty sure I could tilt it and drain it. But just in case, I have a small 4 wheel dolly. Its flat. Similar to the picture below. I can fasten the block to it and the wheels should make it a little easier to tip. One reason the slip casting thing appealed to me is that it requires no attaching pieces together. I've read that those are the places that fail in drying and firing , the ones you glued together with slip which may not dry at the same speed. If the biggest problem with the slip mold is that its big and heavy then I'm cool with that . I'm a big dude. I was more worried about it being a waste if I didn't want several nearly identical pots. Its not cost effective but that's ok. Early on in my research I figured out saving money making your own bonsai pot is like trying to save money growing your own tomatoes . Sooner or later ill try some other techniques. I initially wanted to try the wheel but people here and elsewhere told me that is a lot harder than it looks. Thanks again everyone for the advice and information .
  12. Slip mold - someone else suggested a slump mold or hand building. I planned on buying porcelain and stoneware moist , cutting it up and mixing it , letting it dry, and then remixing it with less water and darvan.
  13. As for the tools for the slip - I have a heavy duty, 1/2 inch , corded drill and a whisk style mix attachment. I've used it to mix mortar and dry wall and, with a diamond hole saw attachment, it cuts granite so it should mix a clay slurry well enough. I'm going to pay the membership fee at the studio so I think they will let me fire whatever. I don't know if they let me use the pug mill for clay I carry in there (in case I wanted to hand build or use a slump mold of my mix) ill have to ask
  14. I didn't mean to suggest I'd wing it or cross that bridge when I get there. I will figure it out beforehand. Maybe I'm naive but to me this doesn't require skill so much as it does a plan. There's this movie I like with Anthony Hopkins and one of the Baldwin guys... They have to do something difficult and the Baldwin guy despairs . the difficult thing wasn't impossible , it had been done before.....Anthony hopkins says to him "what one man can do another can do!"
  15. That's a good idea about the drain. Ill think about that. And yes a bonsai pot must drain. I think the pottery stuff might even be less expensive than the sacks at the hardware store. Ill check. What I've read is that the mold picks up minute details from the positive so I guess I should caulk, sand, maybe paint or seal the entire wooden model ?
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