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About Min

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  1. Don't make the base and the lid separately, make one box the total height of the finished box then cut the top off and inch or whatever down from the top. That way the lid and base will flow together smoothly. I would add the base and top to the square "tube", round the corners then make a registration (key) mark then cut it. Make sense?
  2. I would make them with the 90 degree corners to start with, bevel the joining edges so there is more surface area to make a strong joint then add a very thick coil on the inside of the corners, when leather hard rasp down the 90 degrees to round them off the way you like. I would make the entire box as one piece so the lid will fit well then cut off the top section and add a flange to the lid or the base. I would also make some sort of decorative mark as a key on the outside so you know which way round the lid fits.
  3. In addition to knowing the hot and cold spots in your kiln (mostly if you have a single controller) I find cones are really beneficial when using a new kiln, changing firing program, after changing thermocouples or changing controllers. Once everything is calibrated then I find they are useful to use to verify firings, I don't put them in every load. I also use them when doing a lot of glaze tests in a firing, I want to know fairly accurately what cone the glaze tests got to.
  4. Dipping Pots into glaze

    Yeah, if the dry glaze cracked it will crawl when fired. If they were mine I would wash them off and redo them for the next load when they have dried out. Or if you really have to do them now rub down the cracked areas so the glaze is thinner.
  5. Thanks, I always get their names mixed around, I went back and corrected it in my post.
  6. Thank you for the link to the pen Mea! I just ordered one. Amazon US was 9.99 plus 5 for shipping to Canada, Amazon Canada price is 28.56 plus shipping ( ships from the US). Crazy but typical!
  7. Just in case you haven't read it yet the Tom Turner article on Chemically Reduced Copper Reds in Oxidation has all sorts of tantalizing clues, like "Chemicals such as tin, zinc, magnesium, iron, phosphorous, sulphates and of course any material containing carbon are hungry for oxygen and will help reduce the glaze colourants as they melt" Also, "I found that as the silicon carbide size became smaller, there was more glaze melt, less surface texture from the glaze bubbling while giving off oxygen during the chemical processes and weaker reduction." BTW in oxidation firings I've found cobalt, copper and manganese act as fluxes.
  8. Oh, that's what I couldn't think of! Knew it reminded me of something. I can totally see making these as a learning exercise for new potters but was thinking in terms of selling them. So many customers saying they are looking to downsize or at least not add to what has already filled up their cupboards that a specialized pot would be harder for me to sell. Not a drinker so I don't really get the whiskey cup, does the spiral in the middle start going round and round after a few?
  9. Looking at the design of those and couldn't help but wonder what else you could use them for. Thought it somewhat resembles a lemon reamer. If the middle bit was a titch wider at the base you could carve sharp channels into the center part and if one of the scallops on the rim was sharpened a bit it could be the pour spout. I like having more than one use for pots, it's got me thinking....
  10. Sometimes the simplest things are the most useful aren't they? I use a microfiber cleaning cloth that is meant for eyeglasses, really don't like the slimy feel of a chamois.
  11. yikes, all guesses... 4,3,1,1 We need Jed to answer these!
  12. If you only have a bit that needs a spray these things work okay. (or if you don't like huffing and puffing) I used one before I got my spraybooth set up, used outside. Wouldn't use them to cover entire pots with glaze but for highlights they are good and very simple to use. For the question of the week I would have to go with my waterfall spray booth. Got a brand new fiberglass shower stall for free when we had our yearly "throw out anything you don't need" day and we went scrounging and found it. Used pump, some mesh that we had to buy plus a few plumbing bits and pieces, came in well under a 100-
  13. Zinc in glazes

    Thanks for the link. I think this comes down to making good glass. With glazes used for all surfaces that could come in contact with food don't use Pb, Cd and Ba , fire the glazes to maturity, use gloss glazes and wash the pots before using them. Tyler linked some good studies on leaching in this thread. If in doubt it doesn't cost much to get a glaze lab tested. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/527ac372e4b0d4e47bb0e554/t/560584f4e4b040325112ea61/1443202292258/GlazeSafety-Carty-2014.pdf
  14. Bloaty Mc-Bloatface

    I would definitely use cone packs on every shelf while you learn how your kiln fires. The cone you fire to would be the middle cone plus one below and above it, so if you are aiming for 6 then use 5,6 and 7. Re the lid, yes post this in the equipment section but for what it's worth my take on it would be the lowest setting isn't necessary. The lid needs to float as the kiln slightly increases in size during firing. There will be something in your manual about checking the hinge to make sure this can happen. None of my top loaders have the lid locked in place during firing,
  15. Zinc in glazes

    Could you cite the source you got this from or a link to it?