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Min

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About Min

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    full time potter

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    Female
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    Canada

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  1. Going camping for a few days.

  2. Min

    Engobe Questions

    This would be his slip recipe for mocha diffusion, nice and alkaline so it works well for that process. 3 basic engobe recipes from the late Robin Hopper here along with some slip decoration application methods.
  3. Min

    Why make functional ware?

    LOL thing is I only make right handed coffee mugs and she was looking for a left
  4. Min

    Why make functional ware?

    My all time classic favourite is when I got heck from a woman (putting it politely) for selling Lazy Susan's. Oh goodness, all the women named Susan I've insulted. Or, being asked if you could drink hot chocolate out of one of my coffee mugs. (seriously)
  5. Min

    Why make functional ware?

    I didn’t set out to spend a lifetime trying to make functional pots. It was all really quite by accident, started out when I took a pottery class after my youngest was born and I had postpartum depression. I had taken ceramics when I was a kid, enjoyed it and thought it would be good for me to get out of the house. The clay got under my fingernails and it’s been stuck there ever since. Perhaps if that first class had been in sculpture I might have gone that route, don’t know but it was a functional pottery class and I got hooked. I don’t think its coincidental that many potters making functional work really enjoy good food and cooking. That subculture Mea mentioned, some people get it, some don’t.
  6. If you go to Lori Martin's website she mentions she is working in lowfire. If you then go to Linda Arbuckle's blog she show some test results using Mayco Stroke and Coat. (about 1/4 way down the page) Your base glaze needs to be quite viscous so it doesn't move. You could also try contacting Lori Martin via her contact page on her site and asking her what she uses. Welcome to the forum
  7. Try glazing the inside only of the mug then when the glaze is dry glaze the outside.
  8. If you have a glaze with a high amount of uncalcined clay it is going to shrink a lot during drying. Hard to tell by the pictures but are the mugs thin walled? If so when you combine that with a glaze that contains a lot of clay you have a double risk of crawling. (If there are any cracks in the raw glaze before firing then it's pretty certain to crawl when fired.) Are your pots really dry after 24 hours? If they're still damp this is also going to compound the problem of the glaze not bonding with the pot because of being oversaturated. Other things can cause crawling also, dirty bisque from greasy hand lotion or dust or just putting the glaze on too thickly. Can you damp sponge them instead? Not a good idea to do sanding unless you have super good ventilation, or working outside, and wearing a respirator.
  9. @shonnie, can't tell what crawling you are asking about from your image. You don't mean the wide band of raw clay at the bottom of the mugs do you?
  10. Min

    Dry firing on a new kiln

    Hi Heidi and welcome to the forum. By pillars do you mean the kiln posts? If so, then it would be fine to have those in the initial firing. For brand new kilns with new elements I like what L&L kilns suggests with doing a very long slow initial firing to condition the elements.
  11. Min

    Thoughts on Pricing

    Adding a wrinkle to the conversation which would be applicable to any Canadians or non US countries thinking of selling pipes etc. to US customers. Apparently you can be banned from crossing into the US if you hold US cannabis stocks in your financial portfolio. Can be in anything from marijuana starts ups to mutual funds or even REITS if one of the properties has a dispensary in one of their properties. I would hazard a guess that making pipes and selling to the US would definitely fall into this jurisdiction. https://www.ctvnews.ca/canada/why-investing-in-pot-could-pose-problems-at-the-u-s-border-1.4011813
  12. I was going to order a couple slab mats and am looking for some reviews about how durable they are and any positive or negative feedback from people who use them. Any thoughts?
  13. Min

    How do I make black slip?

    @Meganthwaites, there is a thread here that discusses making black slip. Chris Campbell makes lovely work with coloured porcelain, she uses Mason Best Black stain #6600. It does contain cobalt plus some other oxides. Problem with just using iron oxide is you aren't going to get black using it alone. If you look at the ingredients used in making black stains or colourants used for making a black glaze they are combinations of oxides. Cobalt plus iron and or chrome, manganese etc. If you only want to make up a little black slip then using stain would be the way I would go, if you have a large amount to make then augmenting the stain with less expensive materials like iron might be an option. edit: like Tyler said though, using stains is considered safer for the potter than using oxides such as manganese or cobalt or chrome. (iron isn't an issue)
  14. Min

    Glaze Bilsters...

    So your clay isn't mature enough at cone 6? And you said your other glazes work on this claybody without craters etc when fired to cone 6 with a 40 minute hold right? If you come to the conclusion that what you have is a cone 8 body (approx) with the blistering glaze a cone 6 glaze then it seems the easiest thing to do would be to raise the firing temperature of the glaze rather than messing around trying to change the clay. If the clay works with your other glazes, brilliant, don't mess with it. If the clay is good at cone 8 then fine, go with that. If the blistering green glaze is the only problem then raise the firing temperature of the glaze itself by altering the recipe so it doesn't run off the pot and boil, change it into a cone 8 glaze. By the way, I think the iridescence shown in some of your pictures is another indicator of an overfired glaze.
  15. Another pair of child sized hands. (was peeling beets)
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