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  1. It's definitely not something I would use. Is it for the colour response of colouring oxides you want to use it or to create a matte or just because it's part of a recipe you use? Strontium carbonate can be subbed at 75% of the amount of barium carbonate that is called for in the recipe but if it's the main flux in the glaze it won't have the same colour response, "barium blues" for example won't look the same. Much of the danger of barium carbonate is to the potter making the glaze but any surface used for food surfaces should be tested for leaching. If the glaze isn't a fully melted stable glass there will be barium leaching. Good article on barium safety here. Welcome to the forum
  2. @Captured in Clay, It's just going to be a little more porous at cone 06 rather than 05. Welcome to the forums and good luck with your show!
  3. I believe @Chilly has one made from an old washing mangle. If she doesn't see this post you could private message her and ask about hers.
  4. It is! I like that none of them match, well not intentionally. Opposite of how I usually work.
  5. Some of 75 assorted mini vases for wedding favours, 60 done, 15 more to do.
  6. Contact info for Uhlig, look to be for enameling or silver clay. https://laborofen.com/de/Uhlig-Oefen I'ld send them an email with a photo of what you have and ask them.
  7. I bought one in January for my workroom. I like that it is voice controlled but would really recommend syncing a bluetooth speaker to it. The Echo speaker is okay for listening to the news or talk radio etc but for music I find the sound quality is pretty bad, worse when you crank up the volume. @Hulk, I don't think my wheel is ever that clean!
  8. @LeeS, the glaze you got from Ceramic Arts Monthly is this Lithium B one from Dave Finkelnburg right? I'm still not getting why the crazing was so bad on it with your test unless there is an issue with your spodumene. Wondering if you did the 4321 glaze he is using for this article, variable being the custer versus spodumene amounts, chem of other materials balanced out. If you found less crazing in the 4321 Bernard Leach recipe than the Lithium B recipe then it would indicate to me a spodumene issue. I would figure that out first before taking the time to do other tests with the same batch of spodumene. Even though it doesn't look like a crystal clear glaze it is at the upper end of lithia at 0.20 moles, the highest of all the glazes you tested. Your glaze is acting like its 3110, total opposite of what a lithium spar would do.
  9. US Pigments price for lithium carb is $14- for 1/2 lb. What happens when you mix some water with your spodumene? Does it get frothy bubbles? https://uspigment.com/product/lithium-carbonate/ https://uspigment.com/product/spodumene/ https://uspigment.com/product/petalite/ The only highfire clay I have right now is some ^10 B-mix. Was thinking I could run one or two of your recipes and fire them in my test kiln but apart from seeing how they melt it isn't going to help with the crazing problem. Let me know if you think this would help either rule in or rule out the spodumene maybe being an issue.
  10. I agree with you and Joel, strange results with the lithium. It's like it's not actually spodumene. The Ceramics Arts Lithium B glaze has the highest lithium amount and yet it crazed the worst is very bizarre. Any chance you have some lithium carb? It's not great for using for glazes long term as it's soluble and will crystallize out but for tests you could use sub it in for the lithia in the spod. If a lithium carb glaze acts differently than the spod maybe there's an issue there. The unmelted CMW ones might just have too much alumina in both and silica in the G0027 version. How fast are you firing the last 2-300 degrees? edit: one of the most difficult glazes to make is a clear glaze that doesn't cloud, or craze, especially one for low expansion clay, it takes some work. @Bill Kielb, as you realize it's a method used by many and it's very useful for looking at glazes within a system. It's another tool in the toolbox to use just as the Stull chart is.
  11. Hi Sarah and welcome to the forum. Could you post some pictures of what you have?
  12. This kiln with the controller? Welcome to the forum.
  13. Cone pack on the same shelf as this pot? Some single zone or manual kilns can fire very unevenly. Could you post a picture of what the glaze is supposed to look like? I agree with Babs and Bill that it doesn't look like a gloss in your picture above.Could be a combination of things, too low a bisque and/or a bisque that wasn't vented well enough plus application plus firing a bit cool. Do you have the option to change the bisque cycle to one that works better for dark claybodies?
  14. To make a stiffer glaze that doesn't move (and pull the underglaze with it) the recipe of the glaze needs to change, not the amount of water used to mix it up. It needs to stiffen up so it's not as fluid, adding alumina is the usual way to do this, kaolin (epk should work) is a good source of alumina and is in many glazes already. Are you using a commercial glaze or mixing your own? For 100 grams of dry glaze you could try adding 2 grams of epk, mix it up and dip a test tile with your underglaze pencil on it (either on bisqued on or not). Add another 2 grams of epk and repeat with another test tile. Keep doing this until you've added 10 grams of epk. If you are using bottled wet glaze then do the same thing but weigh out the liquid so you can replicate the results, I'ld start with 150 grams of wet glaze. If necessary silica can be added also but I'ld try it just with epk first.
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