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Min

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    full time potter

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    Canada

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  1. Min

    COE and Thickness

    Neil, I can’t help but think that if the glaze is crazing where thickest then you are right on the edge of it “fitting” your clay. I used the freeze / boiling water test for a glaze a number of years ago. Multiple test pieces, used test tiles plus real pots, no sign of crazing. Kept some pots with this glaze for our use, they crazed (vitrified clay). Since then I’ve gone back to my more extreme way of testing for crazing. Test pots in 300F oven for a good 20 - 30 minutes, straight from oven into a sink of cool water. Oven up to 315F and repeat. Oven up to 320F and repeat. Likely more of a temperature difference than the freezer / boiling water test. Might be worth trying and see what happens to the single and double dipped glaze. I'm glazing today and firing in the next couple days, I'll run a test with my bomb proof clear and apply it to double and triple the thickness and craze test it. I haven't ever had crazing with this glaze so it will be an interesting test.
  2. From my notes: Rick Malmgren ^6 Shino Soda Ash 10 Spodumene 40 Neph Sy 40 EPK 10 100
  3. Min

    Porcelain lids

    A heaping teaspoon of alumina hydrate to roughly a cup of wax resist. Keep mixing it up while you use it as the alumina will settle out. I would add a few drops of food colouring also, make the alumina wax resist a different colour than your normal wax so you don't mix them up.
  4. When I enlarge your image it looks like glaze blisters but it also looks like there are healed over pinholes / blisters also. Under or over firing and / or glaze viscosity would be my first guesses. Could you post a closeup of one or two of the blisters?
  5. Min

    Paragon LT-3 Kiln Over Firing

    I think you have 2 issues going on. Since the sitter functions mechanically, when the cone bends it should shut off. You adjusted it with an adjustment gauge like this? If it trips freely then it should shut the power off to the elements, have you tried tripping it manually (cold kiln and power off) to make sure everything moves freely? Worn parts, bad cones or not properly adjusted sitter will cause issues. Depending on the amount of corrosion you have on the relay wires you get into a cycle of increased resistance causing more heat which increases the resistance further which eventually ends up in burned wires / arcing and a non functioning circuit. Should be able to get high temp replacement wire from your pottery supply store. I don't know what they carry at big box stores.
  6. Hi Andrea, Is brushing medium available where you live? First off you need to remove some of the water from your dipping glaze, by evaporation and/or decanting some off the top (if soluble materials in glaze you will loose a little this way), try and get about 1/3 of the water out of the dipping glaze. Then either add some commercial brushing medium as per directions or mix up some of your own. For making your own take a gallon of very hot water and sprinkle on 2 tablespoons of CMC gum plus an optional 1 tablespoon Veegum T (or if you have it just use Veegum Cer in place of both those) plus a 1/4 teaspoon of copper carb. (copper will stop the gum from rotting). Let it sit overnight then mix it up with a stick blender. Add a bit of the gum solution to your glaze, try brushing it, add more if necessary. edit: what is the difficulty with your dipping glaze?
  7. Are you sure about the texture being created with an airbrush? Was thinking about spraying ITC coatings and the gun that is used for that, a siphon sandblaster like this. (you can find them at places like Harbour Freight). I can see the underglazes or whatever colour he is using being sprayed on top of the textured surface with an airbrush but not so sure that would be the best way to get the texture. What are you using for the texture slip?
  8. Min

    STPP Alternate

    For red clay slurries Darvan 811, sodium polyacrylate and for all the rest, including glazes, Darvan 7, sodium polymethacrylate. Both are available in liquid form. It takes very little to deflocculate a slip or glaze slurry, just a few drops for about a pint, depending on how deflocculated you need it. Welcome to the forum.
  9. Click on the avatar for the member that you wish to see the album for, this will take you to their profile page. If they have a album then it will be the third tab along near the top of their page. I haven't found a way to find all images, I'll look into it.
  10. Min

    Temperature Algorithm?

    This suggestion was passed along at the time Curt posted the idea. No news yet.
  11. I would use the dry stoneware clay not the ball clay. There was a recent post on Ceramics Arts Daily about paper clay using cellulose fibre and the amounts here. I would make up a bucket of it to get your ratio's right before mixing up a cement mixer full. The other thing you could do would be to use a drill with a mixer attachment (like is used for cement mixing) mix up it 5 gallon buckets instead of the cement mixer. If you have the space for it what works for drying out the clay, after it has stiffened up a bit, is to put some large bath towels on an unpainted concrete floor, dump the clay onto that, and let it sit for the day then flip it in half by lifting up the side of the towel, fold the clay onto itself then stomp on it, (with another towel on top), fold it over again and repeat. Drag the towel with the clay on it to a new spot of the floor. Since the concrete is absorbent it will help dry out the clay. Depending on your climate it should be workable after 2 or 3 days of doing this. Once it's dried out enough that it doesn't stick to your hands then wedge it up on a piece of mdf clamped to a table top if you don't have a plaster wedging board. Welcome to the forum.
  12. Could you post a picture of the pot? Someone might recognize the style of the work.
  13. Min

    Another new B

    It appears that the op is trying to build a low energy nuclear reactor.
  14. Min

    Send me to the store

    Yappy, I have found that just about anything you can buy at either a big box, dollar store, thrift shop or online is going to be cheaper than buying from a ceramics supply store. For sponges, upholstery foam works, I picked up a lifetime supply of scraps from a foam shop for a few dollars. Don't know if you already have a sieve, an accurate set of scales and a respirator (P100 rated) but you will need those. Start scrounging buckets, bakeries and grocery stores that have bulk departments are somewhere to start. How helpful have the staff been at Georgies? Could you email them and ask for a couple recipes that fit the claybodies you use from them?
  15. Have you fired the Georgies Dark Chocolate to ^6 before? No problems? Also, the umber is adding manganese to the clay so the fumes from the kiln need to be well vented. Curt wrote a really good post on bisque firing dark claybodies at the bottom of this page. From Georgies website re glaze firing this clay to cone 5: Trail Mix Dark Chocolate (CC535D) Dark rich brown, almost black. Best when fired to cone 5. The umber addition brings extra flux to the clay, making this a very tight body.
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