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Patrick

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About Patrick

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    www.smithsgrovepottery.com

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    Smiths Grove, KY

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  1. Have a particular model/type/source in mind? I ain't above tryin' anything once.
  2. My second thought regarding the oxygen sensor was to use a IFB and a stainless steel tube on the rear wall, removing it from the chimney equation. If I do that, I'll probably just set up some kind of "Don't go near here or you'll die like Liambesaw said" kind of barrier and let it exhaust straight out of the wall.
  3. Thanks for the pointers. Stainless did cross my mind. Good to hear about you being back at it!
  4. First ... You are absolutely correct and I appreciate your vision! LOL!!! Second. Slowly running out of brick (180 or so left out of 1000), and I'm milking the "forced air burners don't need a chimney" ideology. ... Jabba the Hut. ... That's rich.
  5. Mark, you never did answer me way back when. ... Did your arm heal up ok? You broke it. Remember?
  6. Thanks for the food for thought Russ. Been chewing on it, and here's where I am at. Any additional thought would be appreciated. Let's say you're right and my cone 6 firings would soften it up enough to where it would sag - a possibility since it will be sticking out at about a 45 degree angle from the kiln, and not standing up straight. I would be willing to bet a couple of pieces of 1" angle iron welded to the bottom corners running the entire length and supporting the chimney from those pieces would keep it stable. It seems to me that the piece of angle iron surrounded by air would not get close enough to temps high enough to soften. I could be wrong, but I think that might keep it in one functional piece. I initially thought about cutting small holes in the bottom to introduce cooler air, and then I remembered I would be mounting an oxygen sensor in there. Duh. See image below and keep snide remarks private. ... I know. Just don't say it. Red = sheet. Green = supports/mounting points attached to not-yet-existing steel frame. Blue = O2 sensor. PITA? Maybe. Functional? I think so.
  7. Wow, you guys are awesome. If I ever think nobody in the world cares whether or not I run around with my head on fire, I'll just re-read this post (and gracefully overlook Liambesaw's you-should've-taken-responsibility-for-yourself leanings! LOL!) I'll see if I can't address everyone's concerns topically here: Why 4 burners when you only need 2 for the size of the kiln? Heat placement according to Abernathy kiln theory. Rumor has it the 2 extra burners placed on opposite and higher levels of the kiln led to a 30% decrease in fuel usage. It wasn't how many BTUs, but where are you putting those BTUs in the kiln. I will eat the costs of 2 extra burners upfront (which aren't that bad when you throw sweat equity at it) to get a possible savings in fuel, especially since I've used a lot of hard fire brick (AND see just how fast I can go from 70 degrees to 2300 degrees!). Damper, or lack there of. Since I'll be using forced air burners, I'll have a positive pressure in the kiln anyway. If I understand it correctly, the game of turn down the air/turn up the gas will create all the reduction I could use. If that is not the case, the answer below will provide a solution... Lots of holes where you don't want a lot of heat right next to a big hole with nothing but heat coming out of it. My thinking right now is (1) I need a place to mount my oxygen sensor that is going to stay at or below about 1000 degrees Fahrenheit - or risk damaging the sensor. (2) As much as Liambesaw is, in some ways, a person after my own heart, I very well could be the idiot who burns himself up (by sticking my face in places that weren't designed with face-sticking in mind). So, I am planning on welding a long 16 gauge (1/16th inch) steel chimney and angle it up and out of the SHED (!!! LOL) thingy. A few probe holes where I can insert a thermocouple will give me max temps at different locations in the square tube, and I can then know where to mount my oxygen sensor inside the metal, slanting, don't-touch-it, chimney-kinda, thingy. This should also get most of the heat away from places I want to stick my face, AND give me a good place to rig up a metal damper if I need one. Peep hole locations You are absolutely right, Rae. I will move them out at least one more brick. Thanks for looking out for me y'all!
  8. No chimney. The hole where the tape measure is will be the exhaust. I'll be using 4 forced air burners, ergo... just need a hole and something to deflect it from guilty bystanders.
  9. An update: we had a dry day here (finally!) and I welded the steel for the rear wall and stacked the front wall so I could get a game plan for the steel on it. I originally was thinking about making 2 small walls up the front sides and then stack a door in the middle, but the kiln is too narrow - or the door would be too narrow once I got side-front walls of any substance built. Soooo, for now I'll stack the whole darned thing whenever I fire. It'll keep me young ... or make me old. Regrading the steel for the front wall: I still want to put some steel around the 3 layered floor as a frame to attach supports to, and then it hit me, I'll make 2 or 3 removable, vertical steel frame sections for the front wall that (1) bolt to each other (2) attach to the yet-to-exist floor framing to keep the bottom in place, and (3) attach to the rear wall over the kiln. I'm also going to attach the rear wall to the floor braces to I don't have to worry about it going anywhere. I think that will work for now. It will definitely give me something to fiddle with if I get bored, and it will help me not forget how to embrace the suck. Lastly, I have been nostalgically building a monitoring system out of a raspberry pi 3 b+, an arduino uno, two adafruit max31855 thermocouple boards, two 18.5" K-type thermocouples, and a bosch 12028 automotive oxygen sensor. That's been fun. The RPi provides some pretty descent file saving, graphing, and network availability options. The arduino is pretty much just the sensor workhorse and serial data sender. Man, coding has changed A LOT since I quit banging keys. In chewing on downfiring, reduction times and durations, etc. I decided to give it a shot and see how useful it could be. I can also use it on my other kilns if I want to. If nothing else, I will have csv files of every firing I do with it for learning, changing, etc. I mean I can always still unplug the darn thing, buy a gallon of wine, crank up the burners, and hope for the best ... if that's what I'm in the mood for. Here's some eye candy (LOL! That's funny!)
  10. Here is my game plan for steel (1.5" and 2" angle iron - donated by a friend today from his pile o' stuff) on the back wall. What are your thoughts? What am I not getting? I will be putting angle iron on the floor corners also and attaching it to the walls - just didn't draw it in the picture. I will also be pulling the front and back walls toward each other with rods (weld a bolt onto rod) and springs a la Marcia's numerous descriptions.
  11. More progress. Got the back wall put in. Have a few gaps to mortar up, but I'm satisfied. Hope everyone is well.
  12. Thank you. Are you thinking out of necessity, or just for a door frame? Been scratching my head about the bricks walking over time and supporting the back wall.
  13. Thank you. Actually, it's just under 5 feet tall. Must be the camera angle. Hopefully loading/unloading won't be too bad. But then again, who ever got into ceramics because it was easy?!
  14. Progress. One foot in front of the other. Thank you guys again for not being okay with me keeping that plastic keystone. I am in your collective debt. Will continue to update as more progress is made.
  15. Nice. The above photo wasn't mine though. Mine is a page back with the arch frame still in it - minus the castable keystone (Thanks again er'body.).
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