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Everything posted by postalpotter

  1. how did you know I had a croquet court? Have yet to wash the shelves but thanks again for the save!
  2. I should have asked before I purchased 20lbs of wash from axner. What can I do with what I purchased??? and is 20lbs. sufficient to wash 8 shelves 12x24 more then once?
  3. Nice idea then I could have a forced air kiln! Yea!
  4. the kiln already has the baso , but your are right breaking old pipe fittings loose has always led to more of a headache then need be and if setting the controller at max temp opens the solenoids then that works and I will stop driving from the back seat. I wish my kiln had wheels!
  5. Neil, How can Linda short the solenoids open so that they are out of the line or should she just remove them and re-pipe the line from the valve to the BASO to fire manually? Or I'm I off base? I wish my kiln had wheels!
  6. Linda, I just got off of work and I haven't had time to read over all the replies you have received but you now have a group of knowledgeable people interested in your situation and they WILL see you thru. I do remember reading somewhere on Ward's site that he does charge by the hr. for advice if it is not on equipment that he has sold. I still think that a AC&Heating tech should be able to go through the plumbing and test the system but either way, I am not sure what is the best road for you to travel.
  7. Well? Something of a discussion got started. Since your kiln manufacture is no longer in business and you cant find an owners manual on line then how about calling out a furnace tech to look over the system and help you with your trouble shooting. Linda, what is the name of the kiln manufacture? Maybe some of the instructors who visit the sight might have come in contact with a kiln version like yours with a similar set up? I wish my kiln had wheels!
  8. Well Linda I was hoping that a reposting might attract someone who knew the answer to your problem. If I had your problem I would shut off all valves down stream from the regulator at the tank. I am not sure how things work in the rest of the world; WE insist we are correct and the rest of the planet should get in line, but turning the valve to the right should increase the pressure reading on the gauge. Turning it to the left should lessen the pressure. If there is no change there then it is either a bad gauge or the regulator. If you read the description of the regulators that Ward sells on his site you might get a better idea of what you are dealing with. I am not pushing Mark Ward it is just the only thing I know and the only person I have dealt with http://wardburner.com/burnersparts/regulatorsblowers.html
  9. Hello Linda, Yea if you are reading your pressure at the bottles then that regulator with the gauge is the place to start. If you read ward's short post on regulators then the rubber diaphragm could be bad. Me I just don't know but for the price of your kiln just change the whole package. the regulators should be an easy purchase.
  10. Linda, Who manufactured your kiln maybe you could contact them ? Or perhaps there might be an owners manual already on line. Pictures of the gas lines and associated valves might help. Also reposting your question under a new title might grab the attention of someone else
  11. And I have earned the right to a bit of envy!
  12. Linda A. What are you using for a regulator? If it is the same type as type you would use for your propane bar b que that probably is the reason you can get just 4lb of pressure. BUT what do I know. The reason I come here and type is that it is the only way I have to test my assumptions. From Mark Ward: http://www.wardburner.com/regulators.html also: http://www.wardburner.com/draft.html
  13. Love your kiln. And Yes I am now truly jealous!
  14. Linda A. Knowing nothing of what I speak. I would say you are on the right track, Ward figured I would need a stack a minimum of 8ft. from the floor of my kiln. I will say you have come to the right place for sound advice just a key stroke away.
  15. Linda A Hey, Well as I have said I am a complete novice at this. My only experience with a gas firing is the test fire I did after the kiln was built. I still have not done a bisque fire calibration as described by Steve Davis in the July/Aug. PMI. My experience with the test firing was that I left the pressure the same, 3WC from 920deg. to 1960 without any need to add more fuel by just adjusting the damper. I got the rest of my increase after 1960 deg. by adding fuel and working the damper open by as little as an 1/8 of an inch. I did increase the gas pressure by as much as another 4in. WC before I ran low on pressure. I finally toped out at ^3. I did that on the last day of my vacation and I did it in the daylight where I really couldn't watch the flame. When I can make the time to fire at night I will follow Davis's article and do the bisque calibration. If I remember form your previous post you have an electric kiln so I doubt you have a need to do a gas bisque.
  16. Would an ocarinas or a flute be considered a toy? How about whistles?
  17. Say Linda A if your as unfamiliar with this gas kiln process as I am then perhaps you might check out July/Aug contribution in Pottery Making Illustrated by Steve Davis on bisque firing. Maybe you have? I wish it had been in the last issue!
  18. I learned how to work the damper. The slightest adjustment would cause the temps to rise, stall or fall, with no increase or decrease in gas. Have much much much to learn this is my first rodeo. That was my first firing ever! Will do my first bisque in a couple of weeks. That looks much more of a commercial set-up then I have. Does the kiln have any markings? Doesn't look liked anything on Ward's site. Like I said pay little attention to what I have to say. Here to learn myself
  19. Linda A. You should take my experience with my own venturi burners and truly pay little attention to it. This was the first time I have ever used the burners or any burners period. I fired two burners like the one below and heated my 15 cubic ft. kiln from 920 to about 2138 in 7hr. My kiln was empty. and I was using one 40gal and one 25gal tank. The tanks began to ice and show about 3/4 of their contents gone before I loss pressure and shut it down. I burned the burners for almost 2 hr. before I learned how to get the temps over 920. My burners are low pressure MR 100's built by Mark Ward. and Mr. Ward said that I should use a 100gal tank to keep from icing up but I opted for 2 40 gal tanks and duel lines to a single regulator. Ward sells his system with 12ft. of hose. My tanks are almost that far from my kiln. There is a wealth of info at www.wardburner.com/technicalinfo/claytimesarticles.html I have to learn how to shrink these photo's
  20. Yep, she's a flat top. Thanks again Mark for all the help and advice. If you had not caught the fact that I had purchased the wrong HB's then the outcome of my first firing would have been much different and I am not sure if I would have made a second attempt to build this thing. Thank you! Going with the corelite shelves from Sheffield Pottery
  21. Mark Ward said I would need a 100 gallons and 14 hrs. to get to ^10 if I didn't freeze-up first. We opted for two 40 gal tanks I was using one 40 and one 25 on the test burn. Spent a lot of time trying to get past 920 deg. so I am not worried about gas I am going to play at ^6 for a while before I venture further. I was thinking of weighing the tank before and after to chart my usage of propane. The kiln has a metal skin that I can remove as needed. Have to do a better job with it just not happy with the fit. As for the chimney I came up with a cap. How do you like my chimney cap. Patent pending. Say!!! What about lightning? Should I ground this thing? Neil what say you? I have a stack that is sheeted in metal and braced on the frame of the kiln and it is about 14ft of the ground with my bucket cap sitting on top. The kiln was originally going to be a homemade forced air without bagwalls. Slab size was set and I was going to load from the left side. By the time I figured on Ward's burners and the fact I would need the walls I had moved cinderblocks and bricks more times then I am ashamed to say. So by the time I got busy doing it right I wasn't moving another brick and I decided I didn't want to load the kiln over the left bagwall so I load from the end opposite the burners and always travel to the left and the propane tanks and hoses run on the right.
  22. Well almost, need to just do a better job of making it weather proof and I need to seal the flue box but I now have a kiln! A special shout out to Mark for his guidance and to Neil for his assistance and advice. To all those who also added their $.02 I also went to extend my sincere thanks and ask that you don’t go anywhere. I am sure I will need your expertise and advice as I continue my trek up Everest. I waited until I was finished with the kiln before I assembled the burners and I was really disappointed Saturday evening when I saw the output of a low pressure propane system. In my mind a yellow flame is unburned gas I got a blue flame of about a ft. and then a yellow flickering flame. Sunday morning I got out there and began to close the door on an empty kiln. With three courses of brick left to place I lit the pilots and then one burner, walked around to the door to take a peek at the flame and promptly singed my eye brows. Turned the burner off, sealed the door and before I knew it the pyrometer read 220deg. Turned both burners on and at 600deg. I started to produce soot. Turned down the burners and watched the temp rise until 920deg. and there it stayed for an hour and a half. That is when I learned what to do with the damper and that is where the fun started. I had the damper full open at that point so I closed it and then opened it a 1/4in. and got smoke. I opened it a ¼ until the smoke went away. Seems that the sweet spot is from ¾ to 1 1/8 with 7/8 open being the spot where I got the best results. It took 7hr. to reach 2138deg. measured with my pyrometer, then I lost pressure in my tanks as I ran out of propane. I had to return to work on Monday so I just opened the kiln today and all is well. I will now buy my kiln shelves and posts. I know I was told to build the kiln around the shelves but I didn’t have a single kiln shelf and just couldn’t see doing it that way. I will do a bisque when they arrive and could use a bit of guidance with the process. Don’t tell anybody but I have never even made a cone pack. Should I just use an 03 04 05 or are their other temps I could watch my kiln reach on my first bisque? Again Thank You All
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