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Everything posted by neilestrick

  1. neilestrick

    COE and Thickness

    I've been making a new line of work this year, and I'e been gradually increasing the thickness of the glaze to get the look I like. The glaze fits very well at normal and double dip thicknesses- it passes the freeze thaw tests with flying colors. I find, however, that it will craze ever so slightly if the glaze gets really thick, which tends to happen on about 10% of my pots. Having not dealt with this issue before, my question to you all is this: can I tweak the COE to work even when it's really thick, or will the super thickness cause crazing regardless of the COE?
  2. neilestrick

    COE and Thickness

    @Magnolia Mud Research Of course there are a million variables. I am in no way saying this is foolproof and works in every situation. But in relation to what I was asking, this is a pretty darn good step forward, and saves me a lot of time doing tests that may have been a big waste of time, and for that I am excited. I apologize that it came off as a blanket statement of fact. I of course will do more testing to make sure it rings true for my particular situation, and I will let you all know how it turns out.
  3. neilestrick

    COE and Thickness

    Sorry for the confusion. My question was never how to fix the COE of my glaze, but rather whether changing the COE would matter. I was wondering if a really thick glaze would have crazing issues regardless of how well it fits the clay. Min's glaze is known to fit her clay very well, and it didn't craze even when super thick. That tells us that if it fits, it shouldn't have crazing issues at any thickness.
  4. neilestrick

    Well, There's Your Problem!

    @Benzine Yes, you'll still need to change the elements out for 240 volts. That should be all it needs. Yes, I've seen that many times. One just last week, in fact. When low fire clay goes up to cone 5/6, it melts into a greenish glass that eats right through the bricks. Many a kiln has met its demise that way!
  5. neilestrick

    Well, There's Your Problem!

    My bad! I can't count. I thought it was 12 sided. It's cone 10 at all voltages and phases.
  6. neilestrick


    I think my answer all depend on the what you mean by granular and speckles. If you just mean a bit rougher, then grog is the answer. If you mean really rough, like with stuff coming out of the clay, that is often achieved by wedging in granular feldspar, which melts out during the firing. If you want dark speckles, which are different than granules, that's either achieved by reduction firing stoneware bodies, or by mixing in granular manganese in the case of cone 6 bodies. Can you post some pics of what you're hoping to achieve?
  7. neilestrick

    Malcolm Davis... bubbles?

    I say they're application bubbles. The soluble salts in the glaze make it bubble when you stir it, and because shino are so stiff, the bubbles don't melt out. So stir gently like SAS recommended.
  8. neilestrick

    COE and Thickness

    @Min You're the best! And there we have our answer: If it fits, it fits! Thank you Min!
  9. neilestrick

    Well, There's Your Problem!

    Voltage can be changed with different elements. It looks like it's set up for single phase, so you should be good to go there. Double check that though- should be a 3 prong plug. Be aware that a Skutt 1227 on 240V 1P service is only a cone 8 kiln. It'll get to cone 6, but your elements will wear faster.
  10. neilestrick

    Shimpo metalic drive rk10

    I wouldn't spend more than half that for a 20 year old used wheel.
  11. neilestrick

    Paragon LT-3 Kiln Over Firing

    By how much is it over firing? How do you know it's over firing- just by the bend of the cone?
  12. neilestrick

    low fire reduction shino glaze recipe

    Someone here a year or two ago posted a pic of a shino glaze he was working on that was fired to cone 6 in his electric kiln, but used silicon carbide for localized reduction. It was a convincing shino. Not a great shino as shino goes, but good enough that it could pass as cone 10 gas fired. So there are possibilities.....
  13. neilestrick

    COE and Thickness

    Ha! Ceramics is such a broad subject, and we each work with such specific methods, that when we branch out into new areas there are lots of things we don't know. This is an issue I've never had to deal with before. I've worked with lots of thick glaze applications before, but those were layered glazes where the COE couldn't really be dealt with and crazing wasn't an aesthetic issue for me. But I've never dealt with a single transparent glaze applied this thick where I didn't want crazing. It's out of my experience level, and I though it would be good to share the info here. It's fun to have problems sometimes!
  14. neilestrick

    COE and Thickness

    @glazenerd Thank you! But will a very thick glaze tend to craze during use due to heating/cooling stress in the oven/microwave/dishwasher, or with the correct COE will it not be a problem regardless of how thick it is?
  15. neilestrick

    COE and Thickness

    I was thinking that was a possibility, too, however the crazing usually doesn't show up for a few days after unloading, which is why I suspected the COE to be the issue. If it is a cooling issue, then I would expect it to craze during normal use, too, which I don't want. If that's the case I'll just have to really watch my glazing.
  16. neilestrick

    COE and Thickness

    @min I was thinking the same thing, that maybe it was really close but not quite on the COE. I haven't seen any crazing at all on 'normal' thickness pots after several months of use in the kitchen. Excited to see how your tests come out.
  17. It looks reduced to me. Yes, it will often be more grey than brown in reduction, depending on the amount of iron in the clay.
  18. neilestrick

    Emulating other people's work

    We used to do a project in college that was two steps: First, try to make an exact copy of a piece in a magazine or book. Second, remake it in your own style, and define what those changes are and why you chose them.
  19. What clay body? If it wasn't a cone 6 body with fake speckles, then you got some reduction, because the iron specks won't come out in oxidation.
  20. neilestrick

    A clay that is close to Laguna #60?

    Standard #112.
  21. neilestrick

    Flat Brushable ^6 + glaze

  22. neilestrick

    Flat Brushable ^6 + glaze

    Underglazes 'R' Us I buy Speedball brand underglazes, because they work well, and are quite cheap compared to Amaco and Coyote. Their Red and Royal Blue tend to flux out a bit and cause issues with glazes, but raw they should work fine. I have not found any other colors to be a problem. Lots of online retailers carry them.
  23. neilestrick

    Bizen-yaki question... Any Ideas?

    Wood kiln wadding is usually made of fireclay and silica sand. When I used to wood fire, I used 20 mesh sand, which is pretty big, just enough fireclay to hold the sand together, and a bunch of flour. The flour would burn out, leaving a very open, crumbly wadding that was easy to remove from the pots.
  24. neilestrick

    Flat Brushable ^6 + glaze

    Do you need food safety? If not, underglazes work great, and are very matte when fired. The can be thinned to use like watercolors, or left thick/more coats for greater opacity and stronger color.
  25. neilestrick

    old Gare kiln issue

    I would first try replacing the thermocouple. That would be the simplest and most likely fix. Also make sure there are no loose thermocouple wire connections. Bad thermocouples can cause the controller to do odd things. Are you sure you're reading the final temp, and not the current temp?

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