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neilestrick

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About neilestrick

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    Neil Estrick

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    http://www.neilestrickgallery.com

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    Grayslake, IL

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  1. Paper clay recipes

    Toilet paper works well, too. It breaks down in water very quickly, and it's easy to get.
  2. Most commercial underglazes will work fine on bisque. As long as they haven't glossed over, they'll take more underglaze just fine. Whether or not the covering glaze will move the underglaze depends on the glaze.
  3. Chimney Entrance Reduction

    @bwsaunders Will you be using power burners or venturi burners? Edit: Never mind. Just realized you're the one converting the old Alpine.
  4. Plaster should be cheaper from the pottery supply place. Should be around $20 for 50 pounds. Make sure your form is totally smooth and clean, and well sealed. Plaster will stick to wood pretty easily if there's any sort of grain texture. The more time you spend on the form, the less time you'll have to spend on cleaning up the clay piece. That's why for a one-off piece it might be faster and easier to hand build it rather than casting.
  5. Home made wheel that actually works.

    @Viking Potter My first personal wheel was an old wood framed model that a friend of a relative had made in the 70's. It only had one speed, but it worked pretty well for most pots. You've obviously gone way above and beyond that, so well done!
  6. If you can make it work, it'll be an impressive pot that you could perhaps make more of and sell. I just think that if you're not an experienced mold maker and slip caster, a mold that big would be very difficult to make, and even more difficult to handle when it comes to the actual casting process. I would start with something much smaller, to familiarize yourself with the process, and see if going that big is something you're truly comfortable with. Things get complicated as they get big. I've made a number of molds, and taught my students how to do it, but I personally wouldn't feel comfortable tackling something that big without more experience.
  7. There are casting slips available that you can buy ready to go. I believe Standard Ceramic is one source. Otherwise, you can take any commercial body and make it into a casting slip. If you can't buy the clay body as a dry mix, then you'll need to buy moist clay and let it dry, then break it into the smallest pieces you can before making slip with it. If you're just planning on making one or two of these pots, I would slab or coil build it. A mold that large is a big undertaking, and IMO not worth the effort for one or two pieces, especially if you're new to mold making and slip casting. Here are my calculations for the volume of plaster you'll need, for #1 pottery plaster: Your piece is 18x15x5 = 1350 cubic inches If you make the mold 2 inches thick all around, that's 22x19x9 = 3762 cubic inches. Subtract the volume of the piece from the volume of the outer mold, and that leaves 2412 cubic inches of plaster to make the mold. You need 16.312 grams of plaster per cubic inch so 16.316 x 2412 = 39,354 grams of plaster. Divid that by 454 grams/lb and you get about 87 pounds of plaster. That's a big, heavy mold. You'll need almost 6 gallons of slip to fill it, so that's another 70 pounds or so added to the weight of the mold when it's full.
  8. Why not underfire clay

    At low fire temps, it doesn't matter if it's under fired. Low fire bodies don't vitrify either, so if your glazes are working fine on a cone 6 body, then go for it. The big issue is when you're under firing at higher temps. Mid range and above, glazes are more likely to craze than low fire glazes, and when that happens the pot will leak if the body isn't fired to maturity/vitrification.
  9. Doll Test Kiln

    Post a picture of your kiln and sitter. There are several possible things going on.
  10. Glasslike Crystals in Wet Glaze - What the...?

    There must be something soluble in there. Post the recipe.
  11. Raku Rocket - Kiln #3 by Ian Gregory

    You can cut metal sheet pretty easily with a cutoff blade on a circular saw.
  12. Peter Pugger VPM 20SS

    No machine is going to take totally dry chunks of clay and turn them into nice moist even clay without letting it sit with some moisture for a day or two. These machines mix, but they don't pulverize hard stuff into powder that takes in water and mixes smooth quickly. You have to give the dry stuff time to take in water.
  13. Chimney Entrance Reduction

    I would make it all the same, then restrict it with a brick if necessary like Mark said. That way it's adjustable. It'll take a few firings to get everything worked out anyway, and this way you can adjust things each time and dial it in.
  14. Shopping for My First Kiln

    The kiln, if you got the cone 10 version, will use a NEMA 6-50 plug, which is not going to be the same as your dryer.
  15. Glazing interior of cruets

    Yes, you should glaze the interiors. First, a well fit, non crazing glaze provides a seal in case the clay doesn't fully vitrify. Second, it's more hygienic, especially since you'll likely just be rinsing it out to clean it. The rough unglazed clay can harbor bacteria. Third, if you glaze the outside and leave the inside unglazed, the unbalanced stress put on the clay by the glaze can crack the pot, especially if you throw thin.
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