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neilestrick

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About neilestrick

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    Neil Estrick

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    http://www.neilestrickgallery.com

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    Grayslake, IL

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  1. Grog will bump up the peak temp. Is it a coarse grog or fine? I could see 266 being really nice with fine grog. Also, is the grog visible in the fired clay?
  2. 50F/hr is really slow for a cooling cycle. You'll see a difference with a lot of glazes at 150/hr cooling rate. I'd start with a faster cooling rate and slow it down from there.
  3. If they're going into a wood fired kiln, they'll get ash in the kiln. Why apply it before?
  4. If it has zone control, just distribute the load somewhat evenly, rather than having an empty section. If it doesn't have zone control, leave the bottom empty.
  5. You can make really nice copper reds in oxidation by using silicon carbide for localized reduction. You can also make all sorts of nice iron reds and oranges in oxidation, typically with the addition of bone ash. And yellows and oranges with rutile. You actually have a lot more options for color in cone 6 oxidation than you do in cone 10 reduction, because may colors are more stable at the lower temperature.
  6. Your photo isn't displaying on my computer. Is anyone seeing it? The holes should not affect the structural integrity of the bricks. If they're going to crack, they'll do it with or without the holes. But even if they do, if the compression system is good the cracks won't matter because the bricks can't move anyway. If the holes were an issue, filling them with fiber won't help. You would have to make little rods of brick and mortar them in place.
  7. If you're handy with basic woodworking tools, there are ways of making pedestals so they fold flat. Google it. It makes it a lot easier to transport them. Make them out of 3/8" thick plywood or MDF and they'll last forever.
  8. Elementary teachers tend to do cone 04 work because there has always been an abundance of premixed glazes available for low fire work. Those glazes are easy to use, and have more color options that younger kids like, like bright colors. Until recently, there weren't all that many good cone 6 glazes available. Elementary teachers can do cone 6 or even cone 10 work if they want to, as long as the materials are certified non-toxic and safe for kids to use. Cone 6 and 10 glazes can be certified non-toxic just like 04 glazes.
  9. Only in that we understand them better, and are more focused than before on making glazes that are durable and safe, rather than glazes that just look good and are easy to make.
  10. If I'm understanding the direction of the hole, it won't show when the bricks are used for a kiln wall, correct? I wouldn't even worry about the hole. At 5/8" it's likely not going to affect the insulating properties of the bricks enough to matter. If the hole will show and allow heat to escape, then fiber is probably the best way to go. Wear a respirator when using the fiber.
  11. It is virtually identical to Gerstley of a specific year. It was different every few years as they moved through the deposit. Which year they chose to use as their baseline I do not know. I've been using Gillespie for about 15 years, and it's always been stronger than Gerstley during that period, and I've had several customers says the same thing. Typically you'll need 3-4% less Gillespie than Gerstley.
  12. How fast you need to bisque depends entirely on your clay. The purpose is to harden the clay so it's less fragile for glazing, and to burn out all the organic materials. White stoneware and porcelain bodies can be bisque fired faster since they generally have less stuff to burn out. Brown clays and terra cotta need longer because they aren't as pure. Bisque firing should take anywhere from 5-6 hours to over 12 hours. Most people bisque in the 8-12 hour range.
  13. Even a 6 cu/ft kiln should get up to cone 018 in just a few hours. The problem is that a kiln that size will take longer to cool than a smaller kiln. Did that 20 hours include the cooling segment? Putting that segment in the program isn't necessary. If it's cooling at 9999, that's full speed, cooling at its natural speed. Just take it up to peak temp and let it shut off. Speed up your firing speed. 110F/hr is pretty slow. You can go as fast as your pots will allow without cracking. You also don't need to wait for it to get all the way down to 80F. Open it up at 200. That last 120 degrees could take several hours.
  14. If you've already fired the piece to 1280, it's likely already vitrified, and you'll have a really hard tome getting anything to stick to it. Typically we bisque to cone 06-04 so the piece is still porous for applying the glaze.
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