Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About neilestrick

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Grayslake, IL

Recent Profile Visitors

318,490 profile views
  1. Only in that we understand them better, and are more focused than before on making glazes that are durable and safe, rather than glazes that just look good and are easy to make.
  2. If I'm understanding the direction of the hole, it won't show when the bricks are used for a kiln wall, correct? I wouldn't even worry about the hole. At 5/8" it's likely not going to affect the insulating properties of the bricks enough to matter. If the hole will show and allow heat to escape, then fiber is probably the best way to go. Wear a respirator when using the fiber.
  3. It is virtually identical to Gerstley of a specific year. It was different every few years as they moved through the deposit. Which year they chose to use as their baseline I do not know. I've been using Gillespie for about 15 years, and it's always been stronger than Gerstley during that period, and I've had several customers says the same thing. Typically you'll need 3-4% less Gillespie than Gerstley.
  4. How fast you need to bisque depends entirely on your clay. The purpose is to harden the clay so it's less fragile for glazing, and to burn out all the organic materials. White stoneware and porcelain bodies can be bisque fired faster since they generally have less stuff to burn out. Brown clays and terra cotta need longer because they aren't as pure. Bisque firing should take anywhere from 5-6 hours to over 12 hours. Most people bisque in the 8-12 hour range.
  5. Even a 6 cu/ft kiln should get up to cone 018 in just a few hours. The problem is that a kiln that size will take longer to cool than a smaller kiln. Did that 20 hours include the cooling segment? Putting that segment in the program isn't necessary. If it's cooling at 9999, that's full speed, cooling at its natural speed. Just take it up to peak temp and let it shut off. Speed up your firing speed. 110F/hr is pretty slow. You can go as fast as your pots will allow without cracking. You also don't need to wait for it to get all the way down to 80F. Open it up at 200. That last 120 degrees could take several hours.
  6. If you've already fired the piece to 1280, it's likely already vitrified, and you'll have a really hard tome getting anything to stick to it. Typically we bisque to cone 06-04 so the piece is still porous for applying the glaze.
  7. The Skutt 181 needs a 30 amp breaker. A 50 amp breaker would not be within code, which says the breaker should be 25% greater than the draw of the kiln, but not more than 50% greater. If I remember correctly the 181 only pulls 22-24 amps, so at 150% a 40 amp breaker would be the largest. The KM818 pulls 27.8 amps, so at 25% greater you'd need a 40 amp breaker. At 50% greater, that gets you to 42 amps, which technically allows for the use of a 50 amp breaker, but I'd stick with the 40 for that, too.
  8. 90 minutes is too fast! You're lucky you didn't blow things up. Does it have a switch that can control the power (lo, med, hi)?
  9. L&L only recommends putting holes in the lid if needed. Try it without first. You can always add them.
  10. If it works as it should with the 4 small belts, I would just stay with that system. Just keep your belts in good working order and you won't have any problems. When you say 'wait for someone to get an order in to Laguna', what do you mean? You can call them directly to order, or you can get them through a number of other clay suppliers like Sheffield, Clay Planet, etc.
  11. If you want an accurate test, then you should wait until it's as cool as you would normally open the kiln. 150 is lower than you really need to go IMO. 200-250F is safe. I open at 300F without any ill effects.
  12. Have you talked with any of the manufacturers to see if they have a method of expanding the nozzle? If you can't find a studio model that is big enough, you'd have to go to an industrial machine, which is a really big jump up in size and cost.
  13. Will the pug be a solid pug, or will you be using a die on the end? If you're using a die to extrude a particular shape, it's possible for the extrusion die width to be greater than the nozzle width, because the clay will squish out to fill the die.
  14. @Nir Dvash Clay can stick to clay even if it's not glazed. If you were firing those to full maturity they would totally stick together.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.