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JoyB

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About JoyB

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    South West England
  1. oil spot glaze

    Many thanks to all you guys and gals for all your help. Best wishes Cheers Joy UK
  2. Hi everyone, Can anyone enlighten me as to which Silica is used in an Oil Spot recipe or any recipe stating Silica. I believe it could be either Quartz or Flint or ???? In the US do you favour one or the other? Many thanks Joy uk
  3. Thank you Lucille, I will give that a go. Cheers Joy I think she is talking about cornstarch. She mentions not using it in the video about making slab puffy handles.
  4. Hi everyone, can anyone help please? I am trying to identify a white talc like powder used in a video clip on this site by Sandi Pierantozzi. It's a brilliant clip with loads of info about slab building, but I am rather deaf and however many times I watch the clip I cant make out what she calls the white stuff coming out of the glass shaker which she is sprinkling over her freshly rolled slab. It's within the 'video of the week' - at the bottom of the bit from Annie Chrietzberg 'slab to grab' she suggests 'learning from a pro - Sandi's dvd 'What if' which looks brilliant but I cant hear what she says! Any help please gratefully recieved from a mutt and jeff.
  5. Hi Mark, Thank you for all your help. I had not realised the revelance of the time or rate of heating the kiln, but when I look back over my firing log it's staring right at me, and I now realise that a fast firing does suit my type of glazes. I use two or more glazes on top of each other with wax rresit and underglazes and fast seems to make them all gel together just fine. One day I will figure out how to post a photo of what I do but it could take a while. Many thanks Joy
  6. This forum does the weirdest stuff sometimes Joy, I tried to read a post this afternoon which had quite a few pics attached, every time I opened a picture it logged me out, when that happens you can't look at another pic until you've logged back in again only to get logged out with the next pic!. Thanks Ayjay, I thought it was just me going daft!
  7. Just looking at my post, it's lost all it's spaces and paragraphs! Not sure how that happend but it looks hard to read so sorry about that! Joy
  8. Hey, Thanks Neil, that's a neat way of explaining heatwork, very understandable. Many thanks Joy
  9. Hello from England, I think I need to ask, (1) can anyone explain 'Heat work' to me please, in plain english as I am finding it hard to get my head around, and (2)how does the speed of firing effect the final temperature reached?(3) does how the kiln is packed have much effect on thisI ask because I have a new 150litre Rhode top loading electric kiln with its own controller .. no sitter. I set the ramp 150d c up to 610d c, then 300 d c ramp to 1225d c with a 15minute soak.My Orton large pyrometic cone 9 is either flat or touching its toes depending on which shelf Slightly different temp on the control to what the cone is telling me (and I wonder what would happen if I set the controller to 1260c? which is the temp I am aiming at) One of the reasons I need this explaining is, if possible, I want to be able to put larger sculpture in the same firing as my domestic ware but I think it should be slower firing for the sculpture, but at the same time I want the glaze on my smaller ware to come out the same as it does on the faster firing.Is a slower firing going to effect the heatwork and my glazes reactions, I use two or more glazes layered on top of each other. If I cant do this then what happens If I only put one piece of sculpture in, will it get hotter quicker? what would the temp and ramp be as I guess what/how the kiln is filled must have some bearing on results?I am hoping to understand this so that I can adjust for future firings.Many thanks and sorry for such longwinded questions Joy
  10. Thanks to all for your info and I will give it a go Cheers Joy
  11. Hi everyone. I am having problems with cracks appearing when I roll a coil and bend it into a round. I try to keep the clay as damp as possible and roll the coil on marble. When I roll onto a rubber mat to make a design in it its fine, its only when I come to bend the coil. My stoneware clay is about 12months old but I have tried it with new bags and get the same result. I have even put WD40 on the rubber mat to help with rolling but when I bend it still cracks. I watch dvd's of people doing this and they dont have cracks so I wonder what I am doing wrong? I hope someone can help? Cheers Joy
  12. Hello Dinah, I'm fairly new at this site. And I am not sure how I can word the question to ask, but I note that you are using Orton cones and thankfully use centigrade (I am in the UK ) . I was under the impression that cone 6 is around 1222c, but I have noticed in some articles cone 6 could be 1200c or even less and I think that is what you are saying above??? Q: Is this something to do with the rate you reach the cone temp? As you can see I am new to this as well as the forum and mainly self taught and as much as I like experimenting I am getting frustrated with trying to find some answers! Hopefully you can shed some light on it for me. I ask as I have a new electric top loading kiln and things are not coming out of the kiln quite as I expected or how they did in the old kiln, and I dont have the knowledge to find out why .... Something to do with 'heat work' but that's a grey area too! I have never held temp on cooling, so thats something else to 'have a go at' .... frustrating but exciting too Your message has already thrown light and info onto aspects thats I had not considered, so, many thanks Joy
  13. low firing raku

    I have noticed that many European raku glazes seem to fire lower around ^08. Most glazes I have used in the US have a maturing temperature about ^06 (1825) and ^05. Here is a temperature chart. http://www.miniworld...at/ConeInfo.htm Marcia Thank you for the link Marcia, very informative, those cone temps can be quite tricky to remember and I had no idea they relied on so many factors ie: rate of getting to temp etc. So I shall read and try and digest. I have just bought a Raku recipe book and the temperatures vary considerably so I think I just have to start playing with some low ones and recording my finds. Cheers Joy
  14. low firing raku

    I always thought it would be fun but you have made it sound even better! As I'm also a watercolour artist I love 'happy accidents' and the unexpected! So it looks like I shall be having fun. I have taken your advice and ordered Steve Branfman's book, And a book on Raku glazes!!. I think it's nearly time to look at converting that old kiln that's in the garden as I think the Raku bug may get hold and I think I can feel alot of sleepless nights coming up due to a full and happy brain! I thank you again Idaho potter, for those great tips. I have made notes and I'm off to explore!! Joy
  15. low firing raku

    Idaho Potter, I would like to add that your reply was very helpful, Thank you again Joy
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