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esh

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  1. I haven't tried this one, but copper red glaze recipe gets red only under reduction. So if you are using an electric kiln, you will not see the nice red of the illustration. Erez
  2. need help on glaze problem

    Just a few thoughts here. First thing I always do is to wash my pots off with a damp sponge-removes any dust, and adds a bit of water to the bisqueware to cut absorption of glaze. I usually was pots in groups of 5-8. Next thing I would suggest is to check the thickness of the glaze before glazing-dip your hand into the glaze, and lift it out-you should have a coating that covers your hand evenly, but thinly-no color coming through-the cuticles and fingernail shapes should still show even though coated with glaze. The overall thickness of this glaze should be the thickness of a finger nail. If your glaze comes out too thick-then add water cup at a time until it is ready. Now, very important also is that you mix your glaze just before glazing to make certain that everything is in suspension, and continue to do so as you glaze. Hope this helps. Always thought that absorption of glaze is a good thing - let glaze and clay blend together under fire to produce a stronger pot and glazing - doesn't it?
  3. leather hard clay and slip

    You can use magic water to attach leather hard clay parts. Works nice if clay is not drier than leather hard. A magic water recipe (you can google it to find few more recipes): 1 litter of water 2 teaspoons sodium silicate 1/2 teaspoon soda ash
  4. ^06 glaze on stoneware

    Firing to 06 obtains porous and relatively weak tiles, so it is recommended not to use the table for outdoor conditions.
  5. Butter Yellow Glaze

    See the VC #71 thread - it has a nice sample of a yellow glaze.
  6. VC #71, or a nice satin base ?

    Colorants rarely affect the glaze' texture. If you like your base glaze - just start to perform some tests using different colorants / quantities. Enjoy!
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