Jump to content

terrim8

Members
  • Content Count

    407
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About terrim8

  • Rank
    oh oh

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.instagram.com/ceramicfixtures

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Calgary

Recent Profile Visitors

6,013 profile views
  1. still haven't had a chance to make any cone 10 stuff but I'll get there. Maybe we can go in the spring for a change?

    1. Callie Beller Diesel

      Callie Beller Diesel

      It would save freezing our butts off. 

    2. terrim8

      terrim8

      wouldn't it be great if that actually worked?  (butt freezing) Like that "cool sculpting" you see advertised all over the place :o

    3. Callie Beller Diesel

      Callie Beller Diesel

      But then we couldn't get all ragey about the guilt tactics that diet manufacturers and health clubs use this time of year!

  2. terrim8

    Mold Making - again.....

    Guess I'll have to work on my soap skills. I wrote to the manufacturer for the polyurethane parting compound and they don't make it anymore as they can't source the raw material - they're looking for a replacement themselves.
  3. when i'm mixing small test glazes - (paper cup sized quantities) I use a nail brush over the sieve and that works well - so I can see how the big drill brush would be great for large volumes!
  4. terrim8

    Slip- Engobe Study

    Unfortunately my CRC chemistry handbook doesn't get a lot of use these days other than as a weight to press things! Interesting topic so I'll lurk around in the background ( plus I work with terrasig for my smoke fired pottery and I'm just getting into slip casting. The particle stacking makes sense in thin, low SG terrasig as it buffs up nice. ) Are you looking at variation in temperature during the making of the terrasig ? You need to talk to Tony Hansen, and the person he's quoting in this article about terrasig: https://digitalfire.com/4sight/education/super-refined_terra_sigillata_274.html he talks about using heat to concentrate the particles in the solution.
  5. terrim8

    Mold Making - again.....

    Thanks Mark! I'll slow things down a bit to make sure things are cured and then coat them with whatever I can find to seal them hard. Polyurethane from the hardware store. And I'll check out the axner product.
  6. I'm still working with mold making. The course I took went by fast & we worked with a plaster lathe, made models, used soap as a release (Murphy's oil soap) and then made molds. This worked pretty well but I'm having problems on my own now with the soap release. I tried spray Pam- ok for the containers but 50% or less success with plaster models releasing from plaster molds. I try to take things apart relatively quickly- should I wait longer ? Use a different release soap or spray??? Trying to get this all worked out before I move on to larger items and its so frustrating. Just watching a mold making video on clay flicks, I noticed that it was suggested to use two coats of murphys oil soap and let them dry between coats. I'll try that but any other tips would be greatly appreciated.
  7. I just bought 2 of Akira's mugs before Christmas, then had to get two more as every time I went to the cupboard my husband already had them in use . They're my favourite!
  8. terrim8

    Firing Glass on Clay

    Is this the stuff with a pool of clear glaze at the bottom of a bowl? Just looked at the original post & that's what I thought it was. Too bad it splinters!
  9. terrim8

    What's Your Work Music?

    Small world! A lot of anthems of my youth - scaring myself to look at the videos on you tube now though - all the grey hair - yikes we all got old!
  10. terrim8

    Used fire brick changed my plans

    The kiln settles with time ( sort of like me) & repeated firings so a solid door either like Russ's or Medalta's is the only way to short cut the brick up. I found that over the years I had to re-fit all the bricks due to settling. The gaps make it easy to see the reduction flames though, esp. at night ! And you can always stuff rock wool into the gaps each time. I had always wished I had a way to duplicate Medalta's set up. If you're not doing salt or soda, you could use all lightweight bricks and a lighter frame for the door OR extra thick rock wool , doubled up into a frame that slides.
  11. terrim8

    Used fire brick changed my plans

    something that slides over and bolts in place each time - I've seen this at Medalta in Medicine Hat, AB. The double brick doors are on a heavy frame that slides over on rollers like a barn door and there are two bolts with easy turn wing-nuts that hold it closed. They're not little parts but one slide over & you're done.
  12. terrim8

    Used fire brick changed my plans

    Haven't read the whole thread (lazy) but what kind of door are you using. I gave away my old caternary arch kiln, mostly for the bricks and the hard job of tear down to clear it all out. It was a six burner with really old "clacker?" burners. I had to brick it up every time & that got to be a real pain.
  13. terrim8

    What's Your Work Music?

    Sadly these days- not music! Podcasts : Marketplace, Planet Money, the Indicator, Science Friday, ...(sometimes Fresh Air ) If I do put on music its usually heavily tilted towards Oscar Peterson, then Deadmau5, Dyalla, Eddie Harris & Les McCann, Herbie Hancock, Moby, Thelonius Monk, The Byrds, Eric Burden & the Animals
  14. A lot of pit fired work is bisqued to a low temperature such as 017. I've bisqued to 04, then pit-fired the pottery and am still happy with my results - its all trial and error to see what you like. Forgot to mention - my stuff isn't vitrified - just decorative.
  15. terrim8

    Raku Kilns

    I agree with this and i just built one recently. I have to make a modification though. Currently, we just raise and lower the top part with a pulley system. I'd like to change this to a winch so that I can fire it more easily myself.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.