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cbarnes

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About cbarnes

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  1. bought some paper clay to try... I LOVE IT!! thank you for the suggestion. this may be a whole new thing for me.
  2. i'll check out paperclay. I've heard that's fun to work with. thank you!
  3. I just prefer cone six for durability after firing. doesn't do me much good though if I cant get it past that stage. thanks!
  4. I've thought about doing molds. might be time to go for it. the head actually breaks and falls off ruining the glaze. I haven't tried the separate parts with the cone shape fitting into a hole in head, just tried it flat, i'll try that. thank you!
  5. I've been playing with making these Cats in various positions and I'm new to hand building. I really like the thin neck to add character, however the head falls off during the firing process. its hollow but still heavy compared to the neck. I've tried firing the head separate from the body and gluing later but with shrinkage etc, it isn't a good fit. any ideas? I don't have a vent on my kiln so armatures are difficult. I tried a wire the first time ,now realizing that was a bad move and it melted of course. and I'm using clay with grog if that matters firing to cone 6 any advice appreciated, thank you
  6. I was wondering how others are handling pottery expenses as a business. this is our second year buying material and selling. are most of you running as a cash based business and expensing all material purchases as they are purchased. and just claiming the income as its sold. depreciating equipment, etc. or do you maintain material inventory and record cost of goods sold estimating the costs of clay, glaze, electricity etc etc on each piece. last year I recorded all cash purchases as material expense but I wasn't sure if that was correct since we are technically manufacturing. anyone have advice?? I'm going to try to find a cpa but I didn't have any luck last year finding a competent one at the last minute. thanks
  7. Base Cracking On Firing

    thank you! I've been using the kiln controller fast glaze setting. I guess its time to learn to set the ramp up/down times myself.
  8. Base Cracking On Firing

    great! thank you I appreciate the tip. i'll try it this weekend! I love making these large pieces, and painting the detail, but boy is that a lot of time put in for a failure. such is the life of a potter.
  9. larger pieces are cracking around the base on cone 6 refire. I'm using a porcelain clay, throwing on the wheel, drying on a wood bat after pulling off with wire and covering with thin plastic (I use drycleaner bags). in a garage so ambient temperature varies. when throwing I'm using a lot of water but clear it up with sponge and compress the bottom. definitely dry before firing to cone 04 bisque. Seems to crack mainly around where I trimmed but not always any ideas why this is happening? should I turn the piece once its leather upside down for more even drying? maybe trimming to thin? at a loss. about a third of my larger items are having this occur. platters & bowls - 12 - 17" bases.
  10. Crazing - Commercial Glaze

    I will let you know. I assume the best testing would be > dishwasher run several times - like over two weeks, just leave it in there? > freezer for 1/2 hour then boiling water? for now, I will advertise these as not microwave or oven safe. my intention was for them to be decoration or light use, but you know people wont listen.
  11. Crazing - Commercial Glaze

    Thank you everyone for the suggestions. it turns out "hopefully" that it was an easier fix. we decided to just try a higher cone temp and slower fire. I refired the crazed pieces (two tests now) with good results. no apparent crazing on previously crazed pieces. I'm going to do some shock testing to see if they hold up. previously fired to cone 5 at a "fast glaze" setting on my kiln (5 hour fire I think), refired to cone6 with slow glaze setting, took about 7 1/2 hours but the cool down took a lot longer. before and after shots attached.
  12. Crazing - Commercial Glaze

    Here are some samples. I've mixed all the glaze so I can't add to the dry mix, can I add silica & kaolin to the already mixed glaze? in small batches? or maybe I just toss it and start over spendy mistake but that's pottery I guess. do things slow and experiment... I keep forgetting that. or maybe try different non porcelain clay body? is it that porcelain is more difficult? I thought I just needed to find clay that was rated the same cone range as the glaze. thanks for all the help!!!!! the science side of this is not easy for me.
  13. Crazing - Commercial Glaze

    it only takes about 30 seconds- minute to dry to the touch. its about a fingernail thick I think but i'll check again. are there any "problems" caused by a clear glaze that's to thin? other than it just not looking as glossy? I could add water then and not be as worried about thickness. I haven't tried sieving it so I will do that also. my pieces are about 1/4"-3/8" thick. I will also try wetting them. I have a base coat of underglaze on these though, that I have fired to 04 to set so it doesn't smear, will that make a difference?
  14. Crazing - Commercial Glaze

    yes, then added recommended water and then using a paddle attached to the drill to mix. I've added some more water because it was definitely to thick .. wouldn't dry quickly after dipping. but now it "seems" the right consistency.
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