Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About What?

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Gilbert, Arizona

Recent Profile Visitors

2,512 profile views
  1. I use wax resist for drawing over carbon trap shino. I also use resist mixed with aluminum hydrate on the bottoms of my porcelain work to keep it from fusing to the advancer shelves.
  2. The BUSINESS of Pottery

    Handmade is on the rise for sure. Unless you got some "mad" pottery skills and people digging your stuff and willing to pay for the effort in making show stoppers you will most likely not flourish. Make some strong forms and have a good glaze fit consistently. Develop a line of work that is economical for you to produce. Listen to what people/customers are saying and buying and adjusting accordingly. Apprenticing with someone may be very helpful. Then you might have a chance. But I would not plan on that trip to Borneo for a good many years. "I would rather make a hundred $10 mugs as opposed to twenty $50 mugs" one of my mentors said this a few years ago. "Take my advice; I'm not using it." is what another mentor told me many years ago.
  3. Wedging Table Design...

    Mine is outside against the wall. I did shim the front bottom so the table is at maybe a 10- 15 degrees slope. I find this angle helps with the wrist not being bent back as much. Also water sheds off of it. I have a cotton duck top. When I have the means and time I will weld up a frame with the slope (because I love it) and pour in a 3-4 inches slab plaster. I would store in the studio and not outside.
  4. Best Advice: "Better learn to use that metal kidney rib" Jeremy Birddell Worst advice: Listening/believing your own critique.
  5. Keep going. I saw your post on instagram. I too saw the plumbers flange as a support for the rim. I thought is very ingenious I have never tried it though. I personally like when the rim and foot are relatively the same size. When I have thrown this form I leave a lot of clay at the bottom and an inch or more to trim so I have a nice foot and good lift on the pot to match the hardy rim. When making pots with a large belly I purposely leave the wall thicker in the middle to belly out later. I also use the assistance of a torch or heat gun. good luck.
  6. I say well made pottery is well made pottery whether by man or machine. This comes down to design, clay, glaze fit, and decoration. I go thrift store shopping and antiquing regularly. I always swing by the dishes and vase areas. Most is slip cast and jigger/ jollied. I can just tell I do pottery. I some times am fooled or unsure and then one gasp in the hand one turn to look at the foot and boom not hand made. Mold lines are a dead give away. A stamp, made in china sticker, decals (maybe handmade not hand painted). I use my wedding ring to tap the object so I can get a feel for the clay and vitrification of it. I have came across some nice functional handmade pottery that made the thud sound( this does not live up to good pottery in my opinion). I do come across handmade items frequently. Most are student level and easily recognizable as handmade. I give these pots my critique. I do come across fine handmade porcelain and stoneware from time to time. One of my favorite finds is a Frank Vigland cup. This cup is signed and some others are not. But like I said well made pottery is well made pottery. Living in the southwest there is a market for Southwestern and Native American themed pottery. Most of these items are slipcast and hand decorated and signed. Tons of people buy this stuff. I however do not own a single piece of this type of pottery it does not meet my criteria. I will say if you like it; fantastic! However shame on those who deceive. Pres: One of my mentors makes platters (30-34") in this same manner. He use to throw them but has got up in years and is going for 1000 of them. It works for him to use the hump molds these days. All are carefully hand decorated and glazed. So admire and appreciate his work and him.
  7. 100 Sake Cups

    Fantastic! Very thoughtful. A guy I worked with wanted some shot glasses for his bachelor party I told him I would do a dozen no problem. I found a had a very difficult time making this small simple form. I would say having a variety will be helpful. I will say hump thrown would be the way to go on this. This should be no problem for the nine tons a year potter and super uncle.
  8. The Big Show

    I love it up there too. I rode my motorcycle all through there. I always eat a bunch of crab when I'm out that way. Have a great show and an awesome vacation.
  9. It might be a good a idea to take pictures of the label and other pertinent information for reordering or searching for a compatible/replacement product in the future. I wont remember once that bag is gone and a decade has gone by.
  10. Introduction And Garage Studio

    Welcome. The only vehicle I can park in the two car garage now is a motorcycle. A lot of great people here.
  11. Lockerbie K Kick Wheel

    The bottom bearing takes 3 in 1 oil. The top bearing you can use grease or Vaseline. I used a marine grade grease for the top bearing. This most likely is not the bearing unless what was previously mentioned. This is about technique. If you can begin kicking with both legs to start you can get a faster rotation going much easier. The second is if you can kick while throwing. I kick while throwing. I will say I throw no more than 3lbs on the kick wheel. I prefer to throw bowls while kicking. It will just take some time. You can outfit with electric motor kit(kind of costly). You can outfit this wheel with a DIY motor (this consists of a hinge, board, motor, rubber wheel, and spring. You turn the motor on kick the wheel to start and press down on the board which attached to the motor and wheel suspended above the fly wheel. When you need some speed you press down on the board to cause the wheel to contact the flywheel. I learned throwing with this type of contraption on a wood framed kicker. I would not say it was 100% safe in fact it was probably dangerous but that's what the community center had. I always wore shoes.
  12. I started off cone wedging clay because that is what I was taught. I currently use ramshead wedging. I find that this method is very efficient. I also wedge three pounds or so at a time when I do cups or smaller forms. I slap the clay on the table 4 or five time to lengthen it and cut into thirds. I do orientate the direction of the spiral of the wedging action to the rotation of the wheel. I push a finger in the top so I know it is the top. I have been doing this for more than ten year I just seemed to make sense. I don't feel like it makes much of a difference for throwing but I cant shake the habit now (it would be almost taboo for me). I have found a couple of other potters that do this as well. I do cut and slam for the start of reclaim if I do reclaim at all. I have always loved the look of spiral wedging but never mastered the technique. Thanks for using my question. Good to read everyone's responses
  13. Keep your eye out for tubing of different types of material. Some sort of steal will be best for edge retention and durability. You can cut out and or grind (dremel) the shape you want. If you need to bend the tip afterwards and the material cracks or breaks then heat it up with a small butane or propane torch should be fine since it is a very small nib. Once you've refined the tip heat it up again and quench it in water. You could make several and epoxy into an ink pen (once you remove the guts) or make your own from any number of materials.
  14. Do you wedge? What style? Ramshead, spiral, wire and slam, pugmill, etc. Why? Do you also orientate the spiral shape to the rotation of your wheel?