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diymom

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  1. I will look into making glazes next year, I have to make some $ to pay for my supplies right now using what I've already got. Ideally I want to get production costs down once I develop my market, that's when making glazes will come in handy I presume. Right now I am making some molds for my signature mug series I have developed. When those sell and begin to get commissioned in quantity, I'll customize some glazes. Is there a glaze recipe book? Are they mostly measured by weight?
  2. I'll have to talk to the people at my local clay supplies store about a clay with less shrinkage...seriously, it's my first time working with clay in over 8 years and I appear to have made children's mugs and a few shot glass mugs that were supposed to be children's mugs. I never used this clay body in the past and it really does shrink! I guess I have to order some clay from amaco until my glazes are gone. Has anyone tried these e over a tan clay body? Some of the glazes did crawl on me, the turquoise and blues left bare spots around the rim, particularly the layering combos of textured turquoise. My intention is to eventually make my own glazes, but I wanted some bright, sexy colors for my saleable pieces. I don't want a ton of browns and darker greens, reds, blues etc. I think I'll try another manufacturer next and stick with dipping. I did some test tiles with a dipped glaze that was tan under some amaco glazes and they preformed very well with no crazing. They retained their intended colors very well too. I will be using those to stabilize these glazes I don't feel like I should sell these mugs if they are crazing. Especially if they are making cracking noises when they are used for hot liquids. What if they are microwaved???? I definitely wouldn't get good feedback. Now I won't make any money off all that work. Looks like they'll be "gifts with explanations".
  3. Brushing on the glazes was extremely time consuming!!!! I followed their two coats per glaze for their layering glaze directions...should have done three of one coat. There are a ton of areas where I can see thin glaze, blotchy glaze,brush strokes even though I swear I put on the second coat perpendicular to the first direction. However, it was all late at night when I did these. I have noticed more pin holes on several pieces. I didn't know about wetting the pieces first. Amaco also says they let the first coat dry completely before subsequent applications. I also had some very thin pieces that take forever to glaze and dry enough for another coat. I can't spend hours glazing things 5 times! I think I'll phase these glazes out and revert to dipping which works so well for me. I have on more issue....these pieces I've made are making high pitch cracking noises even now, three days later. My husband drank hot tea out of his new mug and it was making cracking noises the whole time! That's awful! Did I do something wrong???? I used true Celadon, very lustre, both turquoises, arctic blue, light sepia, frosted melon, Smokey merlot, and iron luster. Smokey merlot costs more and has the best dependability, light sepia comes next. I didn't have a fan brush, just a thick Japanese square brush. It seemed to work alright.
  4. After 25 hours of natural cooling! Oh my goodness, I was dying to see inside,so frustrating! I opened the kiln at 140 and I was pleasantly not in horror as I had planned. But the amaco pc glazes must be something of an art since I had many pieces which weren't coated enough and others appeared to be travelling too far down the mug...like my cone 6 firing was too much for the glazes. Most everything was fine, a few really nice pieces, a few major duds...all my black mountain or whatever bloated and discolored...maybe come 5 is the max for that clay... but I'm not depressed with failure nor am I chipping all my glaze off shelves. I have my favorite piece ever out of this load...it's so dainty and perfect, I don't want to use it for its intended purpose... Anyway....only a few pinholes, not in the places I expected except on one surf terracotta type clay. Will make better mugs and try more dipping glazes. Thanks for the input and encouragement and commiserating with my woes! Learning pretty fast now.
  5. No I didn't dampen them, I had 3 different clay bodies, the srgf (I think that's the abbreviation), black mountain and bee mix with grog. The first really sucked in the glaze, the second, weirdly did not and acted like it was vitreous and the third, the bee mix did great. I am a little surprised at the variation. Kiln is cooling down, I went with medium speed to ^6 and it took over 10 hours. It has cooled down to 1000 degrees since it completed. I think I'll have to wait until tonight at least to see inside. Still so worried. Hope nothing bad happened in there. Tonight will either be a great night or a very disappointing, dismal one.
  6. Yes, I was using freshly made glazes for dipping, they are totally frustrating to mix evenly...clumps and bubbles! Kiln is up to 2056 degrees, I am impatiently checking it too often and practically pacing. I want mugs now! It will take all night/day to cool down. It took 12 hours + for my bisque firing to cool. I am going to wait until I have morale support to open it tomorrow. I need sleep.
  7. Everything in there is layered! I love the effects of layering amoco's pc glazes...well, theoretically...I've just seen pictures. I am so nervous I could sit in there the whole firing and fret. Thank goodness I'm too busy to do that. I rubbed in all the holes and wiped off the wax resist and spaced everything about 1/2". I think I should have put my test tiles on the top shelves where it's probably hotter. I have witness cones all over. My load is a little light, I wish there were more pieces in there for a full capacity load.
  8. I am loading my kiln for my second ever glaze firing to ^6, I used amaco pc brush on glazes on my bee mix forms bisqued to ^04. I see lots of little pin holes and I am very worried that it means I'll have pin holes in the glazed piece. Why did my glaze do that as I brushed it on? My bee mix has grog, would that effect it? I have a ceramics book which I am finding very useless as it literally breezes over glaze technique and goes into depth on glaze ingredients...it says something about dusting off or something when it describes one of the 5 or 6 ways you get pin holes or bubbles in glaze...in one paragraph. The book doesn't go into more detail as to what it means. Do I need to sand down the glaze to fill the holes or something? Help, I am worried and I need to start the firing today! Oh and I used some pc glazes over some aardvark dip glazes on a few tiles and a few colors are peeling off the dip glaze....why?
  9. I think I'll be more diligent to cover things in the future, I really don't want to fiddle with fussy pieces, I will just throw more unless it's especially amazing.... So in your experience, when a handle begins to crack away from the mug body, even if it's a small separation, that it grows in the bisque firing? I had about 8 mugs do that before I read about drying them out slowly and began to keep them covered for a while following attachment. I hope they aren't all shot.
  10. I just got some paper towels for my studio...I have just used rags for cleanup prior...I'm a waste not want not person usually. Next time I have a overly dry mug, I'll try the paper towel route and the spray bottle under buckets or bags to see what works quicker. I think I need to throw about 10 at once and do stages of production...and use my magic box...which I'm making today using an old storage tub from Ikea. It's nice and deep and about 2&1/2 mugs wide. Should hold about 10-11 mugs at once.
  11. Ok, the magic box is on the to do list once space is cleared. Just made an extruder and am planning out my shelves and other storage. Thanks for the heads up!
  12. What do I do with my mug bodies that dried too fast? If I cover them,they're never ready to trim when I return. I am in my studio off and on throughout the week, I have many distractions a despite my best efforts, I have unfinished work that dries out. I thought I could rehydrate them by dipping them into water and letting them sit, then dipping again, but it really screwed them up...the two pieces I did this with were thrown with reclaimed clay and they got bloated zit looking things all over about an inch down from the rim....I thought maybe due to tiny air pockets or grog.... Is there a right way to rehydrate that retains the shape texture and function of an item? And is scoring/ joining better with slip or water? why? I was taught using water. My slip seems lighter than my clay body so it bothers me to see it overlap around edges. Oh and why pull a handle after its on a mug? Seems really unnecessary and problematic. I wish I had a ceramics veteran mentor around...thank God for this forum!
  13. I use 1x2 and 2x4s to create shelf structures. I have remodeling experience with drywall...it has no structural integrity. I have plaster forms I made that I use to float my work off on and some to catch my waste while throwing. they're too heavy to use to turn the whole piece upside down, I will make some smaller ones...I don't like how crumbly drywall edges can be. I wish I could go out now and implement all these ideas...maybe at my kids naptime.
  14. I feel so stupid saying this but I had no idea until now that my mug handles were probably cracking due to drying too fast. I am sooooooo glad I read this...using bags now. And since my studio is new, and shelving still needs to go in, I will have some drywall shelves. Those will be easier to make fit into my studio wqll framing too. I love that I can read all your discussions and learn so much! There is this potter on YouTube who turns his pieces upside down as soon as he can do so without deforming them so the bases dry quicker and the rims of bowls-for instance- don't dry as quickly. I am not in my studio more than a few hours each day or every other day...kids/babies really cut back my availability, but my pieces dry so fast or I get too impatient when I am out there for that to work for me. I wish I could be out there for days on end and not have to make dinner, do laundry etc...
  15. I love that extruder idea, can't watch it on my tablet, have to use a real computer...Will do it later today, looking forward to a weekend project that extrudes clay!!! Thanks everyone for the inspiring tool help! I think I'll do a vertical slab roller as I have a small studio... 8'x14'....
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