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Evezamora

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About Evezamora

  • Rank
    Newbie

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Hawaii
  • Interests
    Paper clay, Scandinavian design, and mobiles :-)
  1. I just did a cone 6 fire in my new used Paragon kiln, which has an Orton Sentry 2.0 computer. I used the Orton program for cone 6. The read out showed that it only reached 2198 degrees, but the test cone (pictured) looks like it over fired. Also, I tried a clear glaze recipe from Digitalfire, which turned milky (pictured). I don't think the glaze was on too heavy, so did it underfire? I am so confused. Any recommendations on what I can do to adjust to the correct firing?
  2. Eve's Pics

  3. Yes, this is an old Paragon kiln with Orton Sentry 2.0. I have never fired a kiln by myself I will convert Matthew's firing schedule to Fahrenheit and see what happens. I hope to do the first firing this weekend.
  4. I just got a used electric kiln and can't wait to use it. Is there a good resource for firing schedules?I specifically need a cone 6 porcelain paper clay firing schedule. I would like to try a single fire schedule. Has anyone had experience with single firing?
  5. Yikes! My Slip Won't Dry

    Dipping and sculptural.
  6. Yikes! My Slip Won't Dry

    Paper pulp is added to the slip to make paper clay slip. Used for sculptural work such as: http://pyrogirlaspen.com/portfolio/paper-clay-recent/ It should be thin enough to dip, but thick enough that it can be spread on a plaster bat. I found this John Britt video where he uses epsom salts to thicken deflocculated slip. His preferred method is to just add more clay to the slip to get the right thickness, but not more water.
  7. Yikes! My Slip Won't Dry

    Thanks everyone. I used 50#s Laguna Toshi Porcelain Slip (no bentonite). I added the clay and sod sil/darvon mix 1/3 at a time, paying no attention to how it was responding when I added the ingredients . I mixed it for over two hours. The word that comes to mind to describe the slip's current state is "silky." It's the thickness of dish soap and super smooth. It takes 1+ hours to dry on dipped wire. The supplier told me I have too much water, but that doesn't explain the silkiness. He recommended adding more dry clay.
  8. Yikes! My Slip Won't Dry

    I did contact the person who gave the recipe to me and she said that I should let the evaporate from the slip for the next batch. I asked her about the deflocculating being a problem, but haven't received a response. I did mix a small amount of epsom salts with water and added a few drops to a cup of the slip. It made it slightly thicker, but didn't solve the drying issue. I used Darvon 7. I have no idea why the recipe called for deflocculents. I'm not doing slipcasting, just sculptural work. I will have to check the type of porcelain when I get home. I don't know if it contained bentonite. What effect would that have on the slip? I still have 3 gallons of slip without the paper added. It has a definite sheen to it, both before and after it dries. Not at all like the slip we used in the workshop. Is there anyway to reverse the deflocculation effect?
  9. I just tried making paperclay slip from a recipe that I was given at a workshop. The slip has turned out extremely runny and will not dry. To a 50# bag of dry porcelain clay Add to one qt of warm water • 7 grams Barium Carbonate • 13 grams soda ash To a 5 gallon bucket add • 2 gallons of water Add the barium carb mixture to the water and mix for 5 minutes, and while water is mixing: get mixture ready • ¾-1 oz of sodium silicate • 1 oz Darvon • 2 oz of water The paper pulp is made separately and added to the slip. First, it wasn't clear that you don't add the pulp to the entire 5 gallons of slip, so I added it to 2 gallons. I tried dipping wire and after 30 minutes, it's still wet. I left both the slip and the paperclay slip uncovered overnight in hopes of evaporating water, but that hasn't helped. I would really want to save this batch because I can't afford another 50# bag of porcelain. I wonder if there was too much deflocullent in the slip? Can I save it by adding a flocullent like epsom salts? Btw, are the epsom salts bought at a drugstore the same used in ceramics? Aloha - Eve
  10. Can anyone recommend commercial cone 6 gloss clear and satin clear with and without zinc? I've used Amaco HF9 with good results except it fails over mason stains that need zinc. I've used Amaco HF12 with poor results. It picks up underglaze colors. For example I had a pot that was underglazed white with one circle of blue underglaze on greenware. I applied HF12 to the bisque and it came out looking like I had applied a blue colorwash. The blue circle was still distinguishable, but the white portions were also covered in blue. Basically I need three clears: satin w/out zinc; satin w/zinc; gloss w/zinc. Thanks, Eve
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