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David Woodin

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Everything posted by David Woodin

  1. Is it possible that you hit the reset button? If so the kiln will go back to type S and you would have to program it for a type K if that is what you now use. It is a safety factor so that if a type K is used but the controller thinks you have a Type S, it will underfire the kiln. There is also the possibility that the error code was turned off. You have to get into the options section to check this page 24, under FTH, FIC, LTde. David
  2. I have used the Currie 35 tile method quite often, but found that some of the tests were way outside the functional limits. I started making other tests inside the grid for AL/Si limits, which resulted in more good glazes. I use the Matrix glaze program to do this. David
  3. Hi Mark, Because of changes in Custer the following should be considered but I would test with 100 gram batches first. Ron Roy average Custer Insight Custer G200HP Ferro 3134 1000 1000 1000 Custer Ave 1235 1050 G200HP 990 EPK 990 1010 1010 Talc 575 575 575 Wollastonite 510 510 500 Silica 690 855 925 Good luck David
  4. Hi Mark, All you need to do is add 990 grams of G200 HP to the batch and 10 grams more of EPK.. The new 5K batch is as follows: Ferro 3134 1000 G 200 HP 990 EPK 1010 Talc 575 Wollastonite 500 Silica 925 David
  5. This is the same formula using Custer: Ferro 3134 999 Custer 1048 EPK 1010 Talc 586 Wollastonite 510 Silica 848 Total 5001 grams David
  6. If you want to read temperature than a type K thermocouple and analog meter would help. The thermocouple you inquired about the spade lug connection would work. You could also go to where you bought the kiln and get there analog meter and thermocouple that fits this kiln. You will have to find out if you can reach the temperature you want, rapidly without harming your paste. The regulator acts like an infinite switch so that you can slow down how fast the kiln heats up by changing the pulses of current to the kiln, but would require babysitting if you have to follow a ramp to temperature. If you have to ramp the temperature than you will need the ramp/soak controller. David
  7. Order the spade lug connection for the thermocouple, actually you only need bare wire to connect to the controller, make sure the red wire of the thermocouple goes to the minus input #5. If the power wiring to your kiln is larger than 18 to 26 gauge than you will need a relay because you will not be able to connect directly to the output terminals because the wire will be too big. That is why I suggested using a relay. David
  8. The SYL-2352 P would work well for you except you cannot plug directly or wire into this controller. Its relay output is for 7 amps max your kiln comes with a 13 amp plug and cord. You will need an external relay plus a high temp. type K thermocouple with extension wire, a box to install every thing into and a receptacle for the kiln to plug into and a cord with plug to plug into the wall. Why go to all this trouble when the KCR2 controller for this EFCO 110 kiln does it all for you. Doesn't the college or university offer some help in money to pay for this? David
  9. The sensor itself needs to be high temperature, The one that comes with the controller will not be adequate for the temp you will be working at. The controller itself will probably be adequate. The best way to go. is get a controller from the kiln manufacturer and tell them what you intend to use it for, power source etc. David
  10. If all you want to do is read temperature, go to Bigceramicstore.com The only way you can turn it off is by tripping a circuit breaker as it looks like this is 220 volts, if it is 120 volts than pull the plug. Also the max temp for 120 vac is 1742 deg F, is this enough for your tests? David
  11. The thermocouple will only go to 757 deg F and the relay is only pilot duty so you have to have another relay controlled by this pilot duty relay. You need to find the amperage of the kiln first. Most ceramic stores will have a type K thermocouple that will work for you. David
  12. The timer and relay is supposed to pulse the middle section every 60 seconds. The elements themselves are never connected directly to the power from the kiln setter. The elements are controlled by the infinite switches or timer/relays which receive power from the kiln sitter. You will have to check each infinite switch and the timer/relays. If any elements are directly wired to the kiln sitter then their is a mistake in the wiring. Hopefully you can contact someone at Paragon. David
  13. Did someone try to install a controller for this kiln? The Paragon web site doesn't show anything but infinite switches. Did you buy the kiln from Paragon? More information is needed for this kiln and if it was modified then Paragon isn't responsible for it. You mentioned 2 cycle control?? David
  14. The original glaze on the website you gave makes it difficult to convert because the Bentonite and Copper Carb are usually added as a % later. Therefore your glaze is slightly different than the website. At any rate it will run. should be Custer 49.92 Silica 17.2 Lith carb 4.05 3124 5.06 whiting 16.19 Stront 7.59 Total 99.98 Bent 3.04 Copper Carb 8.09
  15. I don't think the kiln completed its last ramp due to losing an element. That is why the old kiln sitter with timer were so valuable. David
  16. It is a Eurotherm/Chessel Model 2416/P4/VH/LH/XX/XX/XX/ENG it controls a Eurotherm solid state Relay 24amp. This is an industrial controller and maybe expensive. Other PID controllers could be used but you must make sure they have a guaranteed soak or hold back This means if you ramp to a temperature it has to stop and wait for the process to get there otherwise it could go though the whole program and think the kiln was following the program setpoint and the kiln might not be anywhere near the temperature. David
  17. As Neil said you probably have a defective controller. You can use a regular PID ramp soak controller but bear in mind that you will have to write a program and it will not have the same features as a Bartlett controller. I use an Industrial ramp/soak PID controller with excellent results. David
  18. The Rampmaster II is the same as other ceramic kiln controllers but has several newer features and a great price. David
  19. It Looks okay especially with a solid state relay. It looks like it is rated for 40 amps, so check your existing kiln for amp rating you may be able to get a higher rating from them. You will have to make your own program as It doesn't have the features of an Orton programmer, or any other programmer meant specifically for potters. Which means no sensing that the kiln is firing faster or slower than intended so no compensation for this and no guarantee of the proper heat work. Also all you are getting are the parts, you will have to mount them in an electrical box and run the power cord plus have a receptacle for your existing kiln to plug into the box. But you could still make a program of your own that will give good heat work, but be carefull as to how you program for the last 200 deg F because this controller will not adjust the ramp or time in case your kiln can't go at 108F or 120 F ramp that some controllers use in there glaze programs. This is made in China so I would want to be sure of what kind of support you can get. There are plenty of American made pid controllers available but in most cases they are for industry and they don't sell a package of parts for pottery kilns, that is for you the customer to choose. David
  20. A manual kiln with balanced elements can benefit from a Wall Mounted controller. On the other hand if your manual kiln doesn't fire evenly top to bottom (less than 1 cone difference), a Wall mounted controller can't help much except for the convenience. David
  21. I use a Bartlet controller to control 3 of my electric kilns one at a time. My kilns were manual so I changed the wiring of the kilns so that the controller bypasses the switches. Since the kilns have two rings I changed the Barlett to a 2 zone controller, and now have two zone control on each of the kilns. The Bartlett comes with the outputs all ready there for up to 3 zones and up to 3 thermocouple inputs.all of the same type. in my case type K. I have to change to which kiln I am using by means of the power cords and themocouples. It has been working fine for over a year now. David
  22. I just finished a slow glaze firing to cone 6 and a soak of 19 minutes, Total time of firing 7hr 53 min. Witness cones were self supporting cone 7. Cone 7 went down to 90 deg. I wanted 7 down and the glaze came out perfect. So the lesson here is be careful with the soak and use self supporting witness cones. Also the thermocouples have to be in good condition and you need to be sure as to what the thermocouple offset is set to, if at all. David
  23. L&L in there control manual doesn't recommend a hold time unless you are monitoring your kiln with cones. This means their controller is continually adjusting to give you the proper heat work as the elements age and your kiln loads change and the firing time changes. To be sure you are getting cone 5 buy some cone 5 self supporting cones and place in the kiln. As far as the bisque goes if you add a hold you are changing how much the clay body will absorb water and this could be a problem. The slow and fast bisque is designed to burn out the impurities in the clay which happens around 1000 to 1200 deg F. I am sure the kiln is fine. But if the glaze needs more heat work add some hold time but be carefull about this as over 10 minutes can rapidly start the next cone to bend. Also you mentioned using Laguna and Amaco glazes I am not sure how they react if one is placed over another. One final thing, if your glaze needs a slower rise for the last ramp you will have to make a vary program and find out how a slower rise will then affect the top temperature needed to get the same heat work. go to www.ortonceramic.com and look at cone resourses. There is a disk available, you probably will have to ask them for it.
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