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David Woodin

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Everything posted by David Woodin

  1. Unfortunately your glazes Silica is not in the cone 6 range. If you want to make some tests you can get it within the cone 6 range and probably get some more good glazes also. I would suggest a 20 grid biaxial test. If you are not sure how to make this test I could help you off line. My email is hdwoodin@gmail.com David
  2. For your slow bisque program, try changing the 100 F ramp to 1100 F, to 100 F ramp to 1200 F, this helps to burn out impurities, also follow the rest of the slow bisque program. David
  3. Your glaze is not quite in the food safe range, and whiting can cause outgassing. If you want to bring the glaze into the food safe range and use wollastonite in place of whiting than a better way to bring it into the food safe range is making a line blend, keeping the same Al/Si ratio. A 7 tile blend : A B Frit 3134 92.5 134.48 Custer 78.3 113.6 EPK 60.5 31.4 TALC 17.8 25.8 wollastonite 16.5 24.06 silica 84.4 20.65 Millilitres per sample need 60 cc syringe pet store should have them No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 A 96 80 64 48 32 16 0 B 0 16 32 48 64 80 96 David
  4. The Skutt has tuned elements which help to make them fire evenly. This means the top and bottom elements fire hotter than the middle elements, also each row of bricks has two elements in it which give it plenty of capacity to reach temperature. David
  5. www.LagunaClay.com have parts including a motor kit for the Model K. It is a great wheel and lasts for years.
  6. If you are still going to use cone 10 clay you will have to find out how low it can go wihout leaking, You may have to switch to cone 6. David
  7. I think the thumb wheel is for the speed of the firing with 1 being the slowest. If there is no kiln sitter the kiln will not shut off by itself. You have to put cones in the kiln and watch the cones and shut it off manually. David
  8. Take a look at www.matrix2000.co.nz a very good glaze course on line with help from the instructor for every lesson. David
  9. While the kiln is unplugged start checking beyond the power relay for shorts to ground or between the wires going to the element power terminal. You should be reading around 17 ohms at that terminal for the wires that go to the elements. You should not read anything to ground with your ohmmeter on a high setting on either wire to ground. David
  10. I have seen the same problem happen in a college studio, where a student fired a kiln on a Friday and didn't come back until Monday and a relay had stuck on. Luckily only one section kept firing and didn't do much damage. Before electronic controllers the old Dawson safety shut off with timer would have shut the main power off. There use to be an option to buy a kiln sitter with timer, with a kiln that had an electronic controller. This could satisfy the University. David
  11. I would ask your brother to look at the circuit breaker. The breaker should be rated at least 25% more than the kiln's amperage draw at full power. David
  12. If you're doing a system with zone control, where each section of the kiln fires independently, then you can use a 25 or 30 amp relay for each section. You can get those relays from any of the kiln manufacturers. If you want to buy them elsewhere, you need a dual pole single throw normally open relay with a 12 volt coil (or whatever size coil is required by your controller-Bartlett controllers have 12 volt outputs). If you're doing a single zone system, then you will need to use a single 50 or 60 amp relay and that big relay should have a 240 volt coil, and you use one of the smaller 25/30 amp relays between it and the controller. I was able to do this from the parts available from Euclids.com, I made a kiln sitter Skutt 818 into a 2 zone Kiln. David
  13. The coil of the relay is what pulls in the contactor arm, which you are doing by pressing the arm in now. If there is voltage on this coil and it doesn't pull in than the relay is bad. If there is no voltage on this coil than what ever is feeding the voltage to the relay is not working, like the infinite switch is not sending voltage to the relay coil. You are close to finding the problem. If it is the relay you can replace it yourself. You should be sure to identify the coil of the relay, because the voltage to it should turn on and off as needed to heat the kiln properly. Good luck. David There seems to be voltage on the coil. I'm going to go ahead and order a new relay. I can't seem to find my exact relay, but there seem to be two that are very similar to the one in my kiln. Mine has both PRD-60908 and PRD-71G0. The ones I can find only have the second set of numbers. I'm happy to include more information on my specific part if necessary. 1.https://www.amazon.com/Electromechanical-Relay-DPST-NO-120VAC-290Ohm/dp/B00B888AZ0/ref=lp_10865551011_1_4?srs=10865551011&ie=UTF8&qid=1476583406&sr=8-4 2.https://www.amazon.com/TE-CONNECTIVITY-POTTER-BRUMFIELD-PRD-7AG0-120/dp/B00HRNSWN0 Thanks, Jared I would call Cress for the relays. The coil voltage is wrong for the Amazon relays, you will need 240 volt AC coil. You probably don't need 2 relays, only the one you push in manually. David
  14. You can lift the external trip flap and push the sitter button in until it latches and slowly let the flap fall without tripping the sitter off, this is also the way you can extend the firing even though the sitter cone has tripped the sitter off. David
  15. The coil of the relay is what pulls in the contactor arm, which you are doing by pressing the arm in now. If there is voltage on this coil and it doesn't pull in than the relay is bad. If there is no voltage on this coil than what ever is feeding the voltage to the relay is not working, like the infinite switch is not sending voltage to the relay coil. You are close to finding the problem. If it is the relay you can replace it yourself. You should be sure to identify the coil of the relay, because the voltage to it should turn on and off as needed to heat the kiln properly. Good luck. David
  16. It could be what is suppose to trigger the relay that is not working. Trace the wires from the coil of the relay it may go back to a switch. David
  17. You should hear a relay clicking on and off. "thumbwheel will advance only when Firemate switch is depressed" David
  18. Assuming that you followed the Skutt info on phase conversion and it started and ended as a 240v kiln, than no change in elements values are needed. You should look at what offset might have been set for the thermocouple to begin with. You could fire to cone 06 and see what the cone 05,04,03 look like. Cones go from 022 to 01, than 1 to 14, 022 the coolest and 14 the hottest. The kiln looks in great shape. David
  19. Otto and Vivika Heino hammered the clay with a wood mallet down until close to the correct thickness than used the slab roller for the final thickness. This helps to align the clay particles and works fine for me. David
  20. The floating Blue #2 is suspect, and is nowhere near food safe limits. You have to be careful about what you say and at least try some of your mugs in the microwave first. Make some leak tests. try some lemon peals on the surface etc. David
  21. Go to www.Matrix2000.co.nz and take a look at what they offer. David
  22. You will need high temp 12 gauge wire to hook up the elements. I use appliance hook up wire which is used to wire electric stoves. I did this years ago on my Skutt kilns. I got the Bartlet contoller with transformer and pilot relays from Euclids.com. I used Omega type K thermocuples 1/4 " diameter with there low drift inconel sheath. I mounted the parts with controller and fan in a separate box and plug each section of the kiln into the box. The plug and cord is 30 amp dryer cord from Home Depot for the elements. I now am set up to control three different kilns from one controller. The controller box itself is plugged into a wall outlet 6-50 plug and receptacle. None of my kilns exceed 35 amps, and only are 2 zones. David
  23. If you expect to use the kiln as it was intended then get it wire correctly.
  24. The last 200 deg of fireing is suppose to be at a specific rate, in your case 100 deg ramp. This then means, segment 3 top temp should be 1960 and then ramp at 100 deg to 2160 deg, probably no hold is needed. 100 deg ramp is still quite fast that is why. the previous post said 80 deg ramp. As far as testing for boron you could make a 100 gram batch of glaze without the material that adds boron and then add 2% of that material back in and put it on a test tile, keep doing this at 2% amounts, putting each on a test tile until you are back to the original amount. David
  25. This kiln is suppose to have tuned elements to take care of this problem. Maybe they were changed at some point and not put in as they were supposed to be. Also even shelf spacing may not work that well. You want to have at least 2 elements between shelves. David
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