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Rae Reich

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About Rae Reich

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    Rae - Unusual Clay
  • Birthday 06/20/1947

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    Orange, CA
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  1. Highwater clay users

    It sounds thixotropic to me. Sorry I don't remember the conditions/materials that make this happen. There was a CM article decades ago that fired up my friend, Janet Toy, who made some. You can make something of it, but it remains in a state of wetness that makes it lose form when moved/jostled/touched. It made wonderful liquidy forms but was very hard to get to the kiln ! Your clay may have a bit of the material (possible suspect named above) in its mix. Maybe you could salvage some of the clay by treating it like a completely new material to make different kinds of things. Ditch the clay for deadline and get something usable.
  2. The issue with Laguna Iron Phoenix glaze...

    I think they're saying "mix up only what you'll use in one day". That's a new one to me! You're not single firing, are you?
  3. Handy Techniques

    Speaking of brush holders, I inherited a collection of flower frogs, the kind that are basically a form with holes in it that sits in the bottom of a vase and keeps flower stems anchored (haven't tried it with the pin-cushion kind), most of which have by now been recruited into brush holder service. There are many styles and sizes and keep the brushes nicely separated. They might turn up in yard sales and thrift stores. From the kitchen, the dark green scrubbies are the very best for sanding down carvings, edges of feet and signatures on bone dry pots. The more "broken in" they are, the better for delicate work, though I have to be careful that the threads don't catch on those inside-the-curve raggedy edges of through-carvings by making sure that I sand in the direction of the raggedness. I like that my finger tips are still able to feel the work so I feel I have more control.
  4. Ways To Make Square Forms\Urns

    Maybe that "toilet flange" idea (from the moon vase thread) on the rim while you bulge the corners from inside. Then paddle to square - with flange still on?
  5. Bisque firing OOPs

    In my early clay classes I had some stoneware and porcelain mugs in a bisque that went unknowably high. John's wet-fingertip would have demonstrated no absorption. As we all were encouraged to experiment with techniques, I oven-warmed them and painted (with some difficulty) commercial cone 06 glazes. It would have been nice to know about sticky additives like corn syrup or gum tragacanth. I slowly heated our little raku kiln loaded with these experiments to 06 and managed to finish with usable mugs. Although the bright candy colors were unfashionable in those days of 70's earthy stoneware, I was inspired by Ken Price and Ron Nagle's beginning to branch out into low fires. Good luck, the candy colors are acceptable now and low fires can effectively mimic stoneware glazes too, so the world is your oyster!
  6. Plaster clay

    Oh, wow, this is just the answer(s) to my very hazy often questionable recollections! How nice to know the formula! I was going to guess glass slumping because I had been told that glass is slumped in plaster molds. Does anyone know about that?
  7. That looks a little thicker in the curved blade, but it's hard to tell, looks nice and slender. Wouldn't recommend the triangle blade end for carving, maybe trimming. Mine just has a single blade on an aluminum shaft. , Re: beveling - an especially good technique for making thick walls look thinner when you bevel the edges inside the pot
  8. Also, don't carve in a draft! Put your feet in a cooler of ice water, but don't turn on the fan. Protect carved pieces from drying one-sided, or inconsistently from top to bottom, until they're bone dry.
  9. On practicalities, if you can keep your walls under 1/4", there's a slim x-acto style knife that works better and better as you wear it down carving coarse clay. I'm still nursing along one very fragile one while breaking in a newer one (should have started sooner). On porcelain or any very fine grained clay, there's a slim x-acto that has both edges sharpened and the point is curved down. It makes a cleaner cut, especially on curves, leaving less of a raggedy edge on the inside. Not so satisfactory on straight lines for me, it seems to want to curve. Nice for clean-up on all clays, because of the curve, best while still damp-ish. I got them both at Aardvark, I think in the mold trimming side, not the throwing side. The thinner the blade, the less resistance you'll encounter, enabling greater freedom of motion. I carve on leather hard clay and try have the walls of a consistent thickness to avoid more stress on the carving through the whole process. I like your ideas. Hope you continue!
  10. My Fair booth was once located beside someone who demonstrated his carving technique. He used dental drills on fired, fairly thin porcelain (don't remember if it was thrown or cast). It was pure torture for anyone who has been drilled! Not only the piercing sounds but the distinctive fragrance of burning porcelain. People didn't linger much. I think the technique, by him or a precursor, was once featured in Ceramics Monthly long long ago. They were very precise and lacy.
  11. Help! I Can't Center Anymore!

    I think you're creating the torque by using two hands at the top. I find that just the right hand pressing lightly down and in towards the center lets the clay center itself. You will have to experiment a bit to find the right angle and pressure. I use enough moisture to keep the clay from dragging. You can use your left hand to keep the right hand steady - my left pinky rests on the wheelhead while the thumb sits lightly on my right wrist. Hope this helps, you don't want to waste energy and clay!
  12. Artspeak

    Hear, hear! (Love "Wankers and Hogwash") Good reasons in this article for losing the citations, too. Non-ArtSpeak rationale for the kind of carving that I do: "I like making holes in pots and seeing how far I can take it before it collapses. I was inspired by a pair of Danish pots with holes in them that I saw, in 1963, as a contradiction of traditional functionality."
  13. Need help identifying kiln

    Looks like the little Denver kiln we fired at the Pottery Shack. Does it have a sliding damper on top?
  14. Handle Help

    I love how the off-topic bits in this forum lead to unexpected solutions and new sources of information. Wish I'd known the banana trick when I was exhibition throwing years ago! How nice would it be to have a searchable list of all the recommendations links that members have shared? Thank you, everyone.