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Dave K

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  1. cone 08 bisque

  2. Absorption

    I picked up some 563 and tried it this afternoon. It was a little soft but easy to throw. I will see how it fires. I will also check with my supplier to see if they have 630, if not I will have them order some and give it a try. Min, I have an L&L kiln with 3 thermocouples and it's pretty much the same on all levels at cone 6 but not at cone 04. Is there any "wiggle room" for a cone 6 clay to be fully vitrified? If the pyrometric cone is at 2:00 is that close enough and if not am I better off bumping the hold time up a little and risk being over fired? Are you saying that if the absorption rate is high enough that a vitrified piece will leak? Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and help.
  3. Absorption

    Thanks for the replies. Nerd, I think it is point #3 that is my problem. I will try not to make this too long. I use Standard Ceramics clay and have been making vases with 182 which is cone 6-10. My wife put flowers in one and it ended up leaking. Upon testing more of my vases I found that they almost all leak. Doing some research I find that 182 is not vitrified at cone 6 and that glaze will not usually prevent leaking. It makes me wonder what good is a cone 6-10 clay. I am in the process of changing to a different clay body that is a true cone 6 clay. In looking at various ones Standard has to offer I see the absorption rating and wondered what it actually means in the overall picture of making vases. I also tried 365 and 213 porcelain. The 365 did not leak but the 213 did, and they are both rated at cone 6. They were both fired to a cone 6 by the pyrometric cones. It leaves me more than a little confused.
  4. Absorption

    Would someone explain absorption in relation to clay. I use stoneware and porcelain and fire to cone 6. Any information and advice about how it effects to pottery making process would be appreciated. Thanks.
  5. I have fired fine copper wire wrapped around a vase at cone 6 oxidation and also very small pieces of bronze and brass. For me the results were not interesting enough to try it again.
  6. Spray Booth

    I am interested is getting a commerical spray booth. I am looking at a Laguna Pro-X. It's size looks about right for my space. I can't find any reviews on it. Does anyone have one or know someone who does? I would appreciate any input on spray booths in general. It is a big investment and would like to have as much info on them as possible.
  7. What do you mean by " legs"? How much clay should be necessary for a 12" cylinder with 4 1/2" to 5" base and pretty much straight up and down? I use stoneware and for the first time achieved 12" with 7 pounds of clay. I was pleased but suspect that is too heavy.
  8. Spray Gun For Glaze

    I am going to go with the EZE spray gun. Thanks to everyone for your help.
  9. Spray Gun For Glaze

    With the EZE spray gun is the spray pattern adjustable? Will it spray most glazes without thinning?
  10. I also purchased an L&L kiln for Clay-King. Everything was good with it's condition when it arrived. My concern was that they would only drop it at the end of my drive way. The UPS guy that delivered it actually helped me get it into my shop. I couldn't have had a better experence. I have purchased many thing from Clay-King and the have been very good to deal with.
  11. I am looking for a spray gun that can handle commercial glaze with out a lot of thinning. I am using a few older automotive spray guns, gravity feed and siphon, but I have to thin the glaze quite a bit and the results are not always good and the clean up is a mess. Has any one used a K-grip siphon spray gun? I like that it has available jars with lids to store glaze and makes it easy to change glazes during a spraying. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  12. Causes For Cracks

    I use Standard 240. Neil, you are probably correct about the same thickness throughout. I am not use to throwing that much clay and am struggling in most aspects of it. I will have to keep trying and be more aware of the consistence of overall thickness. Thanks to everyone for the help.
  13. I have recently been making 8-9 pound pots. I am having a problem with the bottoms cracking. I think I am compressing the bottom correctly and getting any excess water out. The last two to crack seemed totally dry before bisque firing and I do a 3 hour preheat. I don't think the bottoms are overly thick or thin. One was starting to show a small crack before bisque firing and the other one nothing. Coming out of the bisque firing the were both cracked enough to see light through them. I am using stoneware. Does anyone have thoughts to what I am doing wrong?
  14. Clay Firmness

    I am looking for opinions. I buy my clay from a local supplier and usually get Standard 240. I picked some today that was dated 3/16/16. I opened one of the boxes and it was very hard. I cut up the block into 3-4 pound pieces and put it in a plastic container, cover it with a wet towel and put a lid on the container. In time it will be usable. I have had this problem in the past and sometimes returned it to the supplier. Am I expecting too much for workable clay out of the box or is clay just a product that is unpredictable on it's consistency? Thanks for your comments.
  15. Tips On Using Porcelain

    You guys are scaring me a little. 365 lists the bisque fire at cone 06. Most everything I do is at 04. Is the 06 critical?