Jump to content

Fred Sweet

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Fred Sweet

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Richardson, TX

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Sounds as if the executive director doesn’t want to fund the program, and is using “scare-mongering” techniques to gain support for his agenda. Don’t believe that any bone that wasn’t fully developed by 18 would have survived the childhood of most adults born before computer games became the norm.
  2. If I may make a suggestion to all folks posting a glaze recipe which contains percentages less than 1%, please put a zero before the decimal point . It is easier to understand the above if it reads: “you right Min, 0.2%” Regards, Fred
  3. Shawn- It’s not so much the removal of oxygen from the kiln, as it is removing oxygen from the molecules and compounds which make up the clay and glazes. This is not to say that your hypothesis won’t work, but I think it does need some mechanism to help remove the oxygen from the molecules as well. I’ve seen some articles regarding adding non- combustible gases to kilns, but can’t remember which gases were used nor the sources of the articles. Web search in order??? Will leave further discussion to those better founded in chemistry and its theory. Regards, Fred
  4. Vagabond- Many folks use commercial underglazes at cone 6, and some use them at come 10. However, they have done testing to ascertain whether they hold their color and/or are compatible with the clay and glazes that they are using. As in many/most topics in ceramics, “it depends “. Try them, test them. Only way to find out whether they will work for you and what you wish to make. Your mileage may vary, as is often said. Good luck and please return to let us know your results. People are interested. Regards, Fred
  5. Hulk- I scoped out their site briefly and saw that they are manufacturing a large number of other kiln names under their “umbrella” company (think GM and Ford, Lincoln, etc). Could be true for wheels as well. Thanks for adding this. Had to get back to work!!!! Regards, Fred
  6. I think most of us have done it, at least once, the way you have pictured; whether they admit it out loud or not!
  7. Neil- Wenger wheels are/were made in England. Not sure if they are still being made. Regards, Fred
  8. TonyC- yes! Now the next step is to place your cones in the correct order. 07 in the left hole (falling to the left), then 06, and lastly 05 in the right- most hole. That way they will fall in order from lowest to highest heat work. Remember, if the cone numbers start with a “0” the run in reverse order (like negative numbers). Regards, Fred
  9. Dado- + to what hitchmss says. Do a search internet search for epoxy river tables. You’ll find plenty to look at for ideas. Added benefits include less experimental time, proven technology, clear and opaque material availability, ease of construction, and encasing the metal legs doable, and able to be done without the need for equipment and skill sets which may not be available onsite. Fred
  10. Mark- I am south! And you know it, since you said: “...due east (actually you’re west of me) and north a tad....” Just another day down here. It’s a “Blue Norther”, where there’s nothing to stop the cold coming down from the Arctic Circle, except for barbed wire fences, which only do a reasonable job stopping cattle and other wildlife! It’s alright, give it a couple of days and we’ll be back in the high 60s -low 70s! You know ”pneumonia weather”! Thanks for looking out for me, my friend Mark. Best wishes, Fred
  11. Rockhopper- You are correct with the math, and in actuality that’s what I meant to say. Only excuses I have are as follows: 1) was waiting for a bus in 34 *F weather with no windbreak and a NW wind of 26 mph. 2) I was rushing, since I was typing on my phone and thus not wearing gloves. Face it, I just wanted to put my hands back in my pockets! So yes, my algebra was incorrect, however I was really attempting to suggest a quicker, non-math or ruler method, which also avoids the variable shrinkage rates of different clay bodies, which are only accurate with consistent moisture content clays. People’s individual forming techniques and how much water they use while performing those techniques can have a huge impact upon the moisture content of a 12% shrinkage clay body (ie. if one throws with a lot of water, their shrinkage will be a lot different than if they throw dry), hence: “It depends” and your mileage may vary! Thanks for the correction, Rockhopper! Regards, Fred
  12. StephEm- i agree with liam’s calculations, but a quicker method is to just make the opening the size of the wider end. Since your cork is 4” at the bottom, multiplying that by 1.12 results in 4.48” which is probably close enough. Regards, Fred
  13. Stephen- I agree with MMR regarding the gauges ( easily cut from hard wood) but add canvas to account for the thickness(es) of it (them), depending upon whether you sandwich your clay between two pieces or only one on top. Otherwise when you roll your clay, it won’t accommodate for the canvas, and your slabs will be consistently thinner than your gauge or “target” thickness. Regards, Fred
  14. Cole- What Neil says. I had a few former students who used it to polish their colored porcelain jewelry pendants in rotary rock tumblers. Of the students, one used two or three different grit sizes (and perhaps also more time) which were the more successful in terms of polish and “softness” of the finished products. I seem to remember that she finished with 400 grit, though it was a long time ago and my memory isn’t up to remembering the exact grits used and time per grit. Regards, Fred
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.