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Fred Sweet

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About Fred Sweet

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    Richardson, TX

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  1. OEY3- Have you contacted the Petro Mold Company at either: phone 814)796-6635, or their webpage www.custommolds.net? Information from Classified Advertising in Ceramics Monthly Regards, Fred
  2. spotty- Do a search on “refractory paper “, and you will find several results. Thinnest I found was 1/8” thick x 24” wide x up to 50’ long. May be a little thick for your purpose. Expensive stuff and it becomes friable after firing. Regards, Fred
  3. Smalls- I’m not saying that this is THE answer, but I’ve experienced this problem on some of the wheels I have used in the past. For me, it was one of two problems: 1) a flat spot in the belts or 2) the seam where the belt was “welded” together. Some possible solutions: for flat spots, letting the wheel run for a while may allow the belt to warm up and swell back to its former shape. I have also taken the belts off and soaked them in very hot water for a while. Or if multiple belts, moving adjacent belts in opposite directions on the sheaves. for weld issues, letting it run or trying to sand out the bump on the inside of the belt. Replacing the belt(s) may be a solution of last resort and/or if a brand new wheel, a fix under warranty. Of course these only deal with belt issues and not bearing or pillow block problems. Regards, Fred
  4. Pres- Nope, not corrected. Still reads “hillisde” and not hillside. Respectfully submitted, Fred
  5. Jeff- Try bridging the lip of your piece with you left thumb and middle finger as it rotates. Place the pin tool on the upper side of your thumb and lightly touch the clay below the lip, stabilizing it and rotate your pin tool through the clay until it touches your middle finger. Allow the form to make a couple of revolutions before lifting your hand, pin tool and ring of clay away from the spinning piece. It has worked for a couple of my former students who were visually impaired; one of whom was totally blind. Might give you a bit more confidence and control feeling the clay slide between your fingers. Regards, Fred
  6. Cynthia- As per Neil’s suggestion, check the Mason chart. Direct link is: http://www.masoncolor.com/reference-guide Pay attention to the note section, it will give you a lot of information regarding glaze composition and firing/atmosphere limits. Regards, Fred
  7. oldlady- The address above isn’t a hyperlink, which would take you to their site. Just do a copy and paste into a browser window. Regards, Fred
  8. Neil- It is not just the fact that clay particles get into the threads of a tapped aluminum wheel head, although that is a contributing factor. There is also galvanic corrosion occurring, where two dissimilar metals oxidize at an accelerated rate in the presence of water. Regards, Fred
  9. Also, I don’t recommend using your showe to clean your mats. Take them outside and spray them down with a hose. Less chance of clogging your household plumbing. Regards, Fred
  10. Google isn’t always your friend. Can be a little too distant from the source. Note that I didn’t follow those leads all the way back through the Digital Fire site. The starting page for Frits is: https://digitalfire.com/4sight/material/x.html Most, if not all, have hot links which should get you to more information, including some potential substitutes. Regards, Fred
  11. Doing a quick search in the Digital Fire website under Materials/Frits yields the following (note: other than the Ferro Frit, the May be comment is the closest I could find): 3292- Ferro Frit 3292 This is a USA pottery frit, Ferro now calls it Frit 3292-2. Useful addition to first fire sanitary ware. Balanced, can make up the bulk of a recipe. Out Bound Links. 71- May be Hommel Frit 71, a leaded frit. 550- May be Hommel Frit 550, a leadless calcium borax frit. 740- May be Pemco Frit Pb-740, a leaded frit, a high zinc frit for matte glazed cone 06-4. 76- May be Fusion Frit F-76, a leadless frit. Regards, Fred
  12. Another case of reaping/plundering intellectual property without paying?
  13. Mark- Did you sign a release form for the photo(s)? If not, you definitely have justification to ask for an honorarium of some type. Regards, Fred
  14. Nicky- I’m not understanding something in your statement above. You say you weighed 20% slip. 20% of what? Usually, your dried out slip should equal 100% of your recipe, and to that you would add 5% stain. For example, if you have 200 grams of dried slip, you would then add 10 grams of stain (5% of the base) to it, mix it up with water and test. The next increment that Neil suggested was (10% of base) or 20 grams to the 200 grams of dried slip. And on until you reach your target color. Regards, Fred
  15. Mitzu- You might be able to achieve a little less gloss in your glaze with a slower cool down. Slowing the temperature descent may give time for crystals to develop, resulting in a more matt surface. The color in your second photo seems a little more intense than that in your first one. Try a progressive line blend from 0.25 - 1.0% of the “pigment” in your base glaze, to narrow in on your target result. Regards, Fred
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