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About Magnet

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  1. Sweet! Thanks a heap for the considered answers and that excellent chart. Now, to the plaster!
  2. My subject says it all. I've done it with plastic and of course ceramic, but I'd like to make a one-part mold of a glass that I have. Simple cup, no undercut. If it were plastic I'm sure it would work perfectly. I've made many molds before, just never out of glass -- so I'm hoping that someone has experience with this so I won't waste time on an unfruitful endeavor. I'd appreciate any experienced advice. Thanks!
  3. Thanks for the replies. I'm trying to keep the process as simple as possible. Applying resist takes time and material. Also scraping changes the shape and texture that I've established. Maybe I didn't let the slip or underglaze dry enough, but I'm pretty sure I did... 30+ minutes. I've tried both slip and underglaze. It would get wet when wiping away anyway... This is what I'm talking about: https://www.instagram.com/p/BBlorlmBMjs/
  4. Hi all, I've been trying to inlay a black slip into fine lines I've carved into a leather hard slab of white stoneware. The problem is that when I go to wipe off the excess slip, it smears into the clay and can't be cleaned off -- a problem that seems amplified by the groggy clay I like to use. I've also tried inlaying the slip after bisque, but that also doesn't work well. I've read about/seen clips of others doing this with a porcelain clay body, and I'm wondering if that's what I need to use? I assume the smoother nature of the clay lets you wipe away the excess slip more cleanly... Does anyone have experience with this? I'm familiar with the mishima technique, and using resist then carving through and inlaying -- but I don't want to use either, if possible. Thanks for any advice.
  5. Flat Matte Blue ^6 Recipe?

    Thanks, Min, for the feedback. The glaze will be not be used for food-functional pieces. However, I just read digitalfire's page on the dolomite matte base glaze, and I'm going in that direction. I have a lot to learn about ^6 glazes, and Insight/digitalfire looks like a great direction for me.
  6. Flat Matte Blue ^6 Recipe?

    Here are two that I came across in an old binder in a co-op that I work at. I'll run some tests on these soon, but would like to hear if anyone has experience or reservations about these recipes. Thanks for any help. ^6 Oxidation Matte Blue Nepheline Syenite 34.95 Kaolin 17.43 Silica 16.42 Wollastonite 12.03 Strontium Carbonate 10.68 Zinc Oxide 5.84 Lithium Carbonate 2.65 Total Base: 100.00 ADD Copper Carbonate 1 Cobalt Carbonate 1.5 Total: 102.50 ^6 Matte Dark Blue Custer Feldspar 45.6 Edgar Plastic Kaolin 18.4 Whiting 16.6 Zinc Oxide 6.4 Red Iron Oxide 4.2 Silica 4.6 Cobalt Oxide 4.2 Total: 100
  7. Does anyone have a recipe for a stable, matte blue cone 6 glaze? Something like this...
  8. Ok -- thanks folks. It's starting to seem more and more foolhardy to buy this without seeing a test run. I'll look into taking a 240v generator -- as that's the only power option. Otherwise, the peace of mind provided by buying a new kiln with a warranty would be worthwhile.
  9. Many thanks for the feedback and suggestions, folks. I've arranged to inspect/pick up the kiln this coming Saturday, as it's a bit of a drive... It's a bit of a risk because the kiln in being sold "as is". The owner says that I'll be able to see that it was used little, and there's no reason that the controller wouldn't work. I've asked for a quick test, but power is apparently not available -- unfortunately. Of course, that makes me a bit nervous, but I suppose it's also true that brand new kilns can fail as well. Of course, I'll inspect it closely for any signs of overuse/damage. If there's anything else I should look for, I'd love to hear. Thanks again.
  10. Thanks for the detailed considerations. As noted above, the kiln has a claimed 10-15 firing hours, from a small store-studio that's going out of business. Asking 1600 with no furniture or vent. I was told that it was bisque fired and glazed fired only a few times to cone 6 tops. It ended up being too big for the space and was moved to storage... Though, I was just told that it's stored on a pallet in the owner's warehouse, and doesn't have access to power. She said that I'd see that it's in near-new condition, but won't be able to plug it in. I understand about kiln brick and electricity separately so I think that I can judge the condition of the kiln itself OK, but there's no way for me to tell with the processor is broken, or something else that I'm not thinking of... Should I agree to buy only if I can plug it in ?
  11. This is a 1 zone -- 1 thermocouple Single phase Yes, 3" brick on this one. Gonna check it out in a couple days... Any other opinions or concerns for this kiln? Big thanks again
  12. Naive here -- what's 3 zone? Thanks for the solid advice and note on the thermocouple
  13. Thanks a heap for the feedback. This one has a claimed 10-15 firing hours, from a small store that's going out of business. Asking 1600 with no furniture or vent. I do have a voltmeter; thanks for that suggestion... I've only done hands-on firings with gas and wood in the past but am setting up a little home studio with this one. @Nerd: Any quirks I should know about , besides what I'll find in the manual?
  14. Howdy all. I'm looking at picking up a used Paragon TNF 273, and wondering if anyone has experience, good or bad, with this model? I have no experience with Paragons at all, which is somewhat of a drawback, but the price is right... Thanks for any perspective.
  15. Attic Studio?

    One big question that I home someone can answer: Can anyone recommend a non-toxic floor covering that I can use over my attic's hardwood floor? I have a new child, so toxic off-gassing is a big concern I was going to use vinyl, but that's toxic; also pvc flooring and SBR rubber floors apparently have plenty of carcinogens too... I'm not looking for anything pretty, just waterproof and resilient... and no harmful chemicals. Possible? I considered installing true linoleum/marmoleum and just upgrading the whole attic, but it's not feasible for many reasons.