Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About agafdesign

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  1. Thanks for all the feedback so far. Many have said I should expect slight differences in temperature around the kiln but these seem to be very visible - more so than on other kilns that I have used. I have one glaze which is satin but comes out very glossy if it is in the middle of the kiln while it works perfectly at the top and bottom. The kiln seems to be well insulated. It is in a fairly small room but even on a firing up to 1250C the room temperature does not go above 30C. Its just that now with the retailer saying Rhode are not very good at stoneware glaze firing this is reinforcing my doubts and with a second controller acting up I'm wondering whether to jump ship on Rhode but not leap from the frying pan into the fire!.
  2. Thanks Preston - on the last line I said "I am based in Poland" - is that what you mean. That's Poland the country in Europe, not Poland WI!!!
  3. I'm wondering if anyone else has had good or bad experiences with Rohde or Nabertherm? I purchased a brand new Rohde (TE110MC+) kiln 18 months ago. On day one it would not go above 50C without konking out! The retailer insisted it was something I was doing wrong but eventually came out (after I called Rohde) and admitted the controller was faulty. He replaced it but I saw his older TC304 controller which was obviously a better quality build so I suspect Rohde has been doing some cost cutting recently at the expense of quality. I've also had issues of varying temperatures in the kiln (at least that is how it looks because the same pieces from the same clay with the same glaze look slightly different depending where they sit during the glaze fire. Very recently the controller threw an 'over heating' error on a 1235C porcelain glaze firing. The retailer insisted it was due to my electricity supply and Rohde customer service has just been running me round in circles sometimes saying it is the controller, sometimes insisting I contact the retailer and sometimes just avoiding my calls and ignoring my emails (even though the confirm receiving them!). I think the retailer wants me off his back so he has offered to buy back the kiln but refuses to replace it. He's also started saying things like "this type of kiln is not very good at firing over 1,100C". At the same time I know an increasing number of people locally who are singing the praises of Nabertherm. Does anyone else have any experiences, good or bad, with these two brands? Thanks. BTW - I know there are other brands out there but I am based in Poland and Nabertherm or Rohde are the easiest makes to get hold of.
  4. I'm going to put one or two of my pieces into mass production. Incidently this was very useful: http://ceramicartsdaily.org/pottery-making-techniques/making-ceramic-molds/going-industrial-one-potter-shares-his-experience-with-the-mass-production-of-his-pottery/ But obviously in talking to the manufacturers they all want to see an image and specs of the product. To make sure the factory does not say 'no' and then produce my design themselves I need to write up some sort of nondisclosure agreement and I was wondering if anyone here had ever done this? Thanks
  5. Thank you all for replying. The vinegar solution seems popular but how much vinegar to clay? I'm assuming this is clear vinegar - is that right? The pieces I'm mainly having an issue with are made like this: - the clay is rolled out and then cut into shapes - the shapes are then joined together to make a bowl Because the shapes are fairly random the joins can be at very different angles. Sometimes I do think I push one join that is already connected when I am joining another piece and this stress may be causing the issue. If anyone can post their "vinegar recipe" I'll give it a try!
  6. Thanks all. When fully loaded on a bisque fire it took 18 hours to go from 960 degrees to 100 degrees C and so that seems more normal. The floating lid still gets me though!
  7. I know the correct answer is "let the piece dry slowly" ( ) which I do but once in a blue moon I get a hairline crack. I've seen plenty of discussions here and on the web about what to do after bisque firing but none on what to do before bisque firing. Is it really just a case of pushing some wet slip into the crack with a fine brush? I'm just concerned that will make the surrounding clay wet and it will then crack leading me into a never ending circle of crack repairing. Any top tips? Thanks.
  8. @neilestrick Thanks for the feedback. I guess the only thing to do is monitor the cool down rate when the Kiln is full. I plan to do a bisque firing later this week....
  9. @Arnold - thanks for that. I would say at the peak temperature the widest gap could be 5mm but very hard to measure because of the heat! I'm wondering ... there is a clip on the front to stop someone accidently opening the kiln. I had this closed and in that area, and around the hinges at the back, there was no gap. But should I leave some play in the clip which would allow the lid to lift here. That way it might float more easily and evenly with a smaller gap all the way round? Still going back to the other puzzle - why have a ventalation pipe (which I have out the side) if fumes will come out of this gap anyway??? Can't get my head round that.
  10. I've just purchased a brand new Rohde TE 75 MCC with the ZWR 75 extra ring. Got off to a rocky start because the TC 304 controller supplied with it was faulty but now got a replacement. Two days ago I did the first firing so the kiln was empty (100 C per hour up to 1050C - held for one hour) and not sure about a couple of things: Lid Gap I've read here: http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/2278-kiln-issues/ That a gap between the lid and body is normal at high temperatures but .... - Should I still expect such a gap on a brand new kiln? - What is the point having a ventalation pipe if all the fumes will come out of this gap anyway? My gap was not at the hinge end or by the front clip. Cool Down Rate The kiln heated up perfectly according to the programme. After the hour at 1050C it switched off (there are no options on this controller to set the cool down rate). In the first 5ish minutes it cooled 80C. After about 20 minutes it was down some 200C. Is that kind of cool down rate normal? I've read this: http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/4969-how-fast-is-your-kiln-heating-up-and-cooling-down/ which seems to suggest a much slower rate but then it could be a different kiln or it could be because my kiln was empty ... ? Any thoughts would be very helpful.